Ain’t that the truth!
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
Ain’t that the truth!
HEAD REASSEMBLY. 
Now that my valves are lapped in, it was time to think about reassembly of the head. The first thing I did was clean the head up.
I bought an engine cleaning brush set from Harbor Freight that includes all sizes of brushes that can be fitted into a handle or chucked in a cordless drill.
I used them in my cordless drill and cleaned out oil passageways, spark plug holes, and threaded holes. Then I gave the head a good scrubbing in hot soapy water with a hot water rinse.
It had valve grinding paste and oil and dirt on it from being left out in the open in my garage. After washing, I dried it off thoroughly and blew everything out.
Then I broke out my new valve spring compressor and started assembling the head. I used Permatex Ultra Slick assembly lube to coat the valve stems prior to assembly and I installed the new valve guide seals that came with my Athena gasket kit. Then I began assembly.
The heads all back together and I gave all the valves the rubber mallet test to make sure all the keepers were properly seated, then I wiped down the combustion chamber with oil sealed it up in a plastic bag until I assemble the motor.
After the head was put away, I again turned my attention to cleaning the crud from my engine case. I’m beginning to see some daylight here.
Still a long way to go, but That’s good enough for grandad!
Now that my valves are lapped in, it was time to think about reassembly of the head. The first thing I did was clean the head up.
I bought an engine cleaning brush set from Harbor Freight that includes all sizes of brushes that can be fitted into a handle or chucked in a cordless drill.
I used them in my cordless drill and cleaned out oil passageways, spark plug holes, and threaded holes. Then I gave the head a good scrubbing in hot soapy water with a hot water rinse.
It had valve grinding paste and oil and dirt on it from being left out in the open in my garage. After washing, I dried it off thoroughly and blew everything out.
Then I broke out my new valve spring compressor and started assembling the head. I used Permatex Ultra Slick assembly lube to coat the valve stems prior to assembly and I installed the new valve guide seals that came with my Athena gasket kit. Then I began assembly.
The heads all back together and I gave all the valves the rubber mallet test to make sure all the keepers were properly seated, then I wiped down the combustion chamber with oil sealed it up in a plastic bag until I assemble the motor.
After the head was put away, I again turned my attention to cleaning the crud from my engine case. I’m beginning to see some daylight here.
Still a long way to go, but That’s good enough for grandad!
Daylight?!! You mean your reflection?!! That thing is SHINY!!! If the motor from "The Basketcase" turns out anywhere near that (from being so roached, spending years holding up the side of a shed, I refer to it as "barnacle encrusted") I will be thrilled. Your bike is future calendar material! And the work it took, inspirational. I can't wait to see the whole, fully assembled. (I'm sure you can't either!)
DAYLIGHT!!!!!
Your futures so bright you gotta wear shades! You could shave in that thing Bob! You must have wiped away all the sweat.
Unbelievable Bob. Beautiful work brother.
Your futures so bright you gotta wear shades! You could shave in that thing Bob! You must have wiped away all the sweat.
Unbelievable Bob. Beautiful work brother.
Thanks Tebo, I appreciate the comments. Progress is rather slow, but at least it’s progress.
Thanks Robin, just tryin to keep up with you!
You're leavin' me in the dust brother! Keep up the great work!
Dammit....Lucille is lookin’ like a really dirty old gal now....
....but she’s still sexy! She and I went for a ride today and it was EXCELLENT!
....but she’s still sexy! She and I went for a ride today and it was EXCELLENT!
Last edited:
Workin in the coal mine goin down down down
Workin in the coal mine oops about to slip down.
I’ve been cleaning this engine for so long now. Lordy, I’ve lost track of time. I don’t know, there’s something therapeutic about it. Got my music on, getting lost in the process. I’ve got the front , bottom and left side done so far, all that’s left is what’s left under the clutch cover. But today I spent a LOT of time under the left side cover because ive got a lot of work to do under here and I want a clean operating theatre. At this point everything had been cleaned with a kerosene bath and was WAY better than what I started with.
But I wanted it really clean.
I’m going to replace all of these seals.
While I was in there today I also cleaned all my gasket surfaces. I also pulled out my oil filter from my right side cover. MAN were those bolts stuck! The filter itself looked amazingly clean.
So....onward and upward.
I’m also trying to decide about painting the silver portion of the case. The paint has yellowed and I’m not loving it.
I don’t have a sprayer so that limits me to rattle cans. I bought some Rustoleum that says it’s gloss aluminum.
It’s really more of a satin finish, I’ll probably wind up using it.
One more note. When I started this , I debated whether or not to buy an engine stand. After talking to Robin and reading what others did, I opted to just use wood blocks and I have to say it’s been working great. I have had this engine flipped every which way, even straight up on its nose, and never had a problem.
I use an assortment of 2 X 3 blocks. And a bunch of little 1 X 2’s . The big blocks to do the main support and tha little ones to just wedge in around the edges and it is remarkably solid and safe feeling. I cut a couple special fit blocks before I started , believe me I hardly spent ten minutes on them and they work great.
Also a word about my work surface, I have a double layer of cardboard underneath a doubled up padded tablecloth. It was a Walmart cheapie and oil wipes right off of it. And it all gives a soft cushioned surface for my engine when I roll it around. I’m just throwing all that in to hopefully help anyone that’s never done this job and is contemplating it. You don’t need expensive gear.
OKAY THATS ALL FOR NOW, BACK TO THE COAL MINES.
Workin in the coal mine oops about to slip down.
I’ve been cleaning this engine for so long now. Lordy, I’ve lost track of time. I don’t know, there’s something therapeutic about it. Got my music on, getting lost in the process. I’ve got the front , bottom and left side done so far, all that’s left is what’s left under the clutch cover. But today I spent a LOT of time under the left side cover because ive got a lot of work to do under here and I want a clean operating theatre. At this point everything had been cleaned with a kerosene bath and was WAY better than what I started with.
But I wanted it really clean.
I’m going to replace all of these seals.
While I was in there today I also cleaned all my gasket surfaces. I also pulled out my oil filter from my right side cover. MAN were those bolts stuck! The filter itself looked amazingly clean.
So....onward and upward.
I’m also trying to decide about painting the silver portion of the case. The paint has yellowed and I’m not loving it.
I don’t have a sprayer so that limits me to rattle cans. I bought some Rustoleum that says it’s gloss aluminum.
It’s really more of a satin finish, I’ll probably wind up using it.
One more note. When I started this , I debated whether or not to buy an engine stand. After talking to Robin and reading what others did, I opted to just use wood blocks and I have to say it’s been working great. I have had this engine flipped every which way, even straight up on its nose, and never had a problem.
I use an assortment of 2 X 3 blocks. And a bunch of little 1 X 2’s . The big blocks to do the main support and tha little ones to just wedge in around the edges and it is remarkably solid and safe feeling. I cut a couple special fit blocks before I started , believe me I hardly spent ten minutes on them and they work great.
Also a word about my work surface, I have a double layer of cardboard underneath a doubled up padded tablecloth. It was a Walmart cheapie and oil wipes right off of it. And it all gives a soft cushioned surface for my engine when I roll it around. I’m just throwing all that in to hopefully help anyone that’s never done this job and is contemplating it. You don’t need expensive gear.
OKAY THATS ALL FOR NOW, BACK TO THE COAL MINES.
The brush kit works great, I highly recommend it. It all holds up well, I kinda messed up one brass brush by forcing it into too small of a hole, but other that that, the rest held up really well.
I think you need to split the cases to replace those seals. I assume you are cleaning the outer surface before you do split them. If I remember those seals have a ridge around the circumference.
I don’t plan to split the cases. I know the seals are normally installed from the factory with the cases split, and the seals may have a ridge, I don’t know without going and looking , but there has been a lot written on this forum about changing seals. To my knowledge they all can be done without splitting the cases. I’ve changed the crankshaft seal before and the clutch seal, and I’ve had friends that changed the drive shaft seal. I’ve got a seal removal tool.
You just pry out the old seal, clean everything up, chamfer the edge of the hole if need be ( I have the tool for that also) smear a little Yamabond on the outside edge of the seal and drive er in straight and true!
Thanks for that tip, MM! I happened to be at my favorite seconds and salvage store today whilst killing time waiting for an appointment and found an identical set from GRIP tools. More toward the K-Mart end of the scale than Snap-On, but perfect for those little cleaning jobs. For $9.99 I figure if they do the job once it's money well spent.
OK Bob, so now YOU'VE gotten to polishing the INSIDE of your cases. Remember what I said about these guys.........
Beautiful work buddy!
Beautiful work buddy!
Ruh roh!.......they’re coming to take me away! ( I thought everybody polished the inside of their cases. ).
Last edited:
I doubt that the Rustoleum will be gasoline-resistant, Bob, unless you get the engine enamel. I think you would be better off with a can of automotive DupliColor gloss silver/aluminum.
I’ll look into that, thanks Jeff!
Wait....what did I miss? You did all that engine cleaning and polishing, and now you're going to cover all that work with paint? 
If you had to put something over it, couldn't you clear coat? Or isn't there such a thing as a high-temp clear?
If you had to put something over it, couldn't you clear coat? Or isn't there such a thing as a high-temp clear?
