Mailmans XS2 , the rebuild.......again

Bit late to the party but, we all know the effect sticking bob weights have on the idle speed.
So as your not using a mechanical advance it seems as Jim eluded to that the e advancer is holding the advance.
Now cause or effect, how to prove it’s what’s making the high idle or something else.
Is it possible to run the engine with the e advancer disconnected, and does that make the ignition retarded?
In my mind I still keep coming back to the advance also.... would cause both symptoms (hard starting and high idle).
Bob, are you running the Pamco with the separate E Advance box or the one where it's built into the module?
And...... don't you have the identical setup on the '77D? Maybe swap units? Gets us closer to isolating down to either fueling or iggy.
 
It does sound like a lean condition. Have you tried popping the gas cap open to see if the cap vent may be plugged and is causing vacuum build-up and subsequent slower fuel flow?

You know…I have not checked that, and I have messed around a lot with that gas cap, exchanging different gaskets. I’ll check it out next ride.

Is it possible to run the engine with the e advancer disconnected, and does that make the ignition retarded?

In my mind I still keep coming back to the advance also.... would cause both symptoms (hard starting and high idle).
Bob, are you running the Pamco with the separate E Advance box or the one where it's built into the module?
And...... don't you have the identical setup on the '77D? Maybe swap units? Gets us closer to isolating down to either fueling or iggy.

My XS2 had the newer version of the Pamco with an integrated advance mounted on the plate.
My ‘77D has the older Pamco with the blue E-Advance box, I added at a later date.
It would take a lot of finagling and wiring to swap them.
 
It does sound like a lean condition. Have you tried popping the gas cap open to see if the cap vent may be plugged and is causing vacuum build-up and subsequent slower fuel flow?

FWIW when I had a problem caused by blocked tank vent, the symptom was the bike stopped, like running out of fuel.
 
Thought I’d post a little update, it’s been a while. It’s been so bloody hot here that I have avoided working out in my shop.

First a very short recap of where I’m at. After rebuilding my motor and getting it back on the road, I’ve been having issues with it not running right. When it’s cold it fires right up and runs well , but when it gets hot, things turn bad.
If I shut it off hot and then try to restart it a few moments later, it is very hard to start. My first thought was a bad coil, so they have been replaced with a used Honda MP-08 coil that tested well. I have also disassembled and cleaned and adjusted my carbs until I felt like pulling out what little hair I have left. So in early June I parked the bike, it’s hot and I was feeling cranky.

We were experiencing a little break from the heat here, a rainy system is hanging around our state and it has lowered temperatures for a while, so I took the opportunity to work in the shop today and see if I could make any headway on my XS2.
I started from zero, first I checked my battery’s static voltage with a meter, it was 12.5 volts I thought that was pretty good since it has been parked without the battery tender going. Then set my carbs to factory spec, removed and cleaned my spark plugs, set my valves ( had a couple a little loose), I recently checked my compression and it is right up there where it should be.
Set my cam chain tension ( a little loose also ) fired it up and checked my timing which was spot on. It fired right up and ran smooth and idled perfect, the throttle response was crisp and it revved easily. It also was charging well, I could see the voltage climb when revved the motor. I decided to let it run until it got hot and then shut it off and let it sit for a couple minutes then try a restart, since that was when I was experiencing problems.
This time while trying to restart it, I paid attention to the volt meter, and sure enough, while cranking the voltage was dropping significantly, like down around 9 volts. It would turn the motor over but not fire. Then I tried using the kick starter, the voltage wouldn’t drop as far and I could get it started with 3 or 4 kicks.

So my best guess is that my cheapo battery does not have enough cranking voltage when things get hot, it’ll turn the motor but not enough voltage for my ignition system. To that end I have ordered a new battery, even though my old one was only 9 months old. This time I ordered a gel battery that they advertise as being more durable for extreme temperatures and they also advertise it as holding a charge longer. We’ll see……..:cautious: it’ll be here in a few days.
I sure hope this solves my hot starting issue.
0B3C6828-D9B2-4830-9D8B-F845490E9610.jpeg

A side rant about batteries: These early bikes have smaller batteries than the later models and the selection is pretty limited, especially since I refuse to use a conventional wet cell , non sealed battery. Why do sellers advertise a battery will fit your bike when it is nowhere near the right size? And why is there no size consistency between manufacturers for the same size battery? I have learned to remove the battery and take careful measurements and then shop for hours to find one that’s not a half inch too wide or an inch too tall. It’s a pain in the ass, and then when I find a brand that works, they discontinue it! :cussing: Ok…..rant over. I feel better. :D
 
Thought I’d post a little update, it’s been a while. It’s been so bloody hot here that I have avoided working out in my shop.

First a very short recap of where I’m at. After rebuilding my motor and getting it back on the road, I’ve been having issues with it not running right. When it’s cold it fires right up and runs well , but when it gets hot, things turn bad.
If I shut it off hot and then try to restart it a few moments later, it is very hard to start. My first thought was a bad coil, so they have been replaced with a used Honda MP-08 coil that tested well. I have also disassembled and cleaned and adjusted my carbs until I felt like pulling out what little hair I have left. So in early June I parked the bike, it’s hot and I was feeling cranky.

We were experiencing a little break from the heat here, a rainy system is hanging around our state and it has lowered temperatures for a while, so I took the opportunity to work in the shop today and see if I could make any headway on my XS2.
I started from zero, first I checked my battery’s static voltage with a meter, it was 12.5 volts I thought that was pretty good since it has been parked without the battery tender going. Then set my carbs to factory spec, removed and cleaned my spark plugs, set my valves ( had a couple a little loose), I recently checked my compression and it is right up there where it should be.
Set my cam chain tension ( a little loose also ) fired it up and checked my timing which was spot on. It fired right up and ran smooth and idled perfect, the throttle response was crisp and it revved easily. It also was charging well, I could see the voltage climb when revved the motor. I decided to let it run until it got hot and then shut it off and let it sit for a couple minutes then try a restart, since that was when I was experiencing problems.
This time while trying to restart it, I paid attention to the volt meter, and sure enough, while cranking the voltage was dropping significantly, like down around 9 volts. It would turn the motor over but not fire. Then I tried using the kick starter, the voltage wouldn’t drop as far and I could get it started with 3 or 4 kicks.

So my best guess is that my cheapo battery does not have enough cranking voltage when things get hot, it’ll turn the motor but not enough voltage for my ignition system. To that end I have ordered a new battery, even though my old one was only 9 months old. This time I ordered a gel battery that they advertise as being more durable for extreme temperatures and they also advertise it as holding a charge longer. We’ll see……..:cautious: it’ll be here in a few days.
I sure hope this solves my hot starting issue.
View attachment 195487

A side rant about batteries: These early bikes have smaller batteries than the later models and the selection is pretty limited, especially since I refuse to use a conventional wet cell , non sealed battery. Why do sellers advertise a battery will fit your bike when it is nowhere near the right size? And why is there no size consistency between manufacturers for the same size battery? I have learned to remove the battery and take careful measurements and then shop for hours to find one that’s not a half inch too wide or an inch too tall. It’s a pain in the ass, and then when I find a brand that works, they discontinue it! :cussing: Ok…..rant over. I feel better. :D
It sounds to me like your starter is pulling more amps when hot, maybe start with a cold bike and warm up the starter with a heat gun and see if you can replicate the drop. Might be time for a rewind/replacement.
 
Thought I’d post a little update, it’s been a while. It’s been so bloody hot here that I have avoided working out in my shop.

First a very short recap of where I’m at. After rebuilding my motor and getting it back on the road, I’ve been having issues with it not running right. When it’s cold it fires right up and runs well , but when it gets hot, things turn bad.
If I shut it off hot and then try to restart it a few moments later, it is very hard to start. My first thought was a bad coil, so they have been replaced with a used Honda MP-08 coil that tested well. I have also disassembled and cleaned and adjusted my carbs until I felt like pulling out what little hair I have left. So in early June I parked the bike, it’s hot and I was feeling cranky.

We were experiencing a little break from the heat here, a rainy system is hanging around our state and it has lowered temperatures for a while, so I took the opportunity to work in the shop today and see if I could make any headway on my XS2.
I started from zero, first I checked my battery’s static voltage with a meter, it was 12.5 volts I thought that was pretty good since it has been parked without the battery tender going. Then set my carbs to factory spec, removed and cleaned my spark plugs, set my valves ( had a couple a little loose), I recently checked my compression and it is right up there where it should be.
Set my cam chain tension ( a little loose also ) fired it up and checked my timing which was spot on. It fired right up and ran smooth and idled perfect, the throttle response was crisp and it revved easily. It also was charging well, I could see the voltage climb when revved the motor. I decided to let it run until it got hot and then shut it off and let it sit for a couple minutes then try a restart, since that was when I was experiencing problems.
This time while trying to restart it, I paid attention to the volt meter, and sure enough, while cranking the voltage was dropping significantly, like down around 9 volts. It would turn the motor over but not fire. Then I tried using the kick starter, the voltage wouldn’t drop as far and I could get it started with 3 or 4 kicks.

So my best guess is that my cheapo battery does not have enough cranking voltage when things get hot, it’ll turn the motor but not enough voltage for my ignition system. To that end I have ordered a new battery, even though my old one was only 9 months old. This time I ordered a gel battery that they advertise as being more durable for extreme temperatures and they also advertise it as holding a charge longer. We’ll see……..:cautious: it’ll be here in a few days.
I sure hope this solves my hot starting issue.
View attachment 195487

A side rant about batteries: These early bikes have smaller batteries than the later models and the selection is pretty limited, especially since I refuse to use a conventional wet cell , non sealed battery. Why do sellers advertise a battery will fit your bike when it is nowhere near the right size? And why is there no size consistency between manufacturers for the same size battery? I have learned to remove the battery and take careful measurements and then shop for hours to find one that’s not a half inch too wide or an inch too tall. It’s a pain in the ass, and then when I find a brand that works, they discontinue it! :cussing: Ok…..rant over. I feel better. :D

Although you are experiencing a good deal of frustration, its good at least to hear that you are back wrenching again, Bob. Hope you get this one sorted out soon.
As you started your discussion, I was thinking "battery issue".
 
It sounds to me like your starter is pulling more amps when hot, maybe start with a cold bike and warm up the starter with a heat gun and see if you can replicate the drop. Might be time for a rewind/replacement.

Although you are experiencing a good deal of frustration, its good at least to hear that you are back wrenching again, Bob. Hope you get this one sorted out soon.
As you started your discussion, I was thinking "battery issue".

Well I figured the battery would be the easiest first step, I’ll give it a try and see where I’m at. If that doesn’t do it then I’ll start thinking about the starter. I’ve got time before the weather gets cool enough to ride. ;)
 
Well I figured the battery would be the easiest first step, I’ll give it a try and see where I’m at. If that doesn’t do it then I’ll start thinking about the starter. I’ve got time before the weather gets cool enough to ride. ;)
When I have had a need, concern or question regarding my bike and car batteries (and charging), I have turned to Battery World in Syracuse. ALL that they deal with is batteries, and the owners have a dizzying amount of technical knowledge on the subject. I see that you have a business called Batteries Plus Bulbs (how much of a distraction could bulbs be, after all?) on 12845 W Bell Road in your fair city. I wonder if they could be of similar help in your situation.
 
oh that candy red looks like moms toffy apples she made, last time I was given one I was grumpy about something that I forget and threw in in the bushes, when I cooled down I asked mum for another, I don't think it takes a rocket scientist to know the results from that :cussing:
that full red tank will look beautiful Bob nice choice
 
oh that candy red looks like moms toffy apples she made, last time I was given one I was grumpy about something that I forget and threw in in the bushes, when I cooled down I asked mum for another, I don't think it takes a rocket scientist to know the results from that :cussing:
that full red tank will look beautiful Bob nice choice

I remember when I was 5 or so I was at my aunt's house. It was hot outside, and my cousin and I kept asking for popsicles (the kind in the plastic tube). After the 4th or 5th time asking, she got fed up and made us eat what was left! Of course, we were ecstatic and happily sat and went through every one of them! It's funny what you remember from your childhood.
 
It’s funny, Jim had mentioned to me privately all of these likely culprits, all these little voltage suckers. :D
The starter having high resistance when hot, starter relay, and cables.
I will keep all of them in mind as I go through this.
The starter was completely disassembled when I built the bike, the rotor was polished and checked with a meter, the brushes were good, I don’t recall if I checked the stator wiring with a meter, it would seem likely I did, but I don’t remember.
The starter cable is unfortunately not a separate part, it goes right into the interior of the starter.
640602EC-B51D-46A2-9985-96A0B3A74DDD.jpeg EEF4590C-80A8-4637-BBFA-8458D0F7428D.jpeg FA6EAF76-6178-42EC-879A-E7A01F7186EF.jpeg

The starter solenoid was replaced with a brand new unit, of course that doesn’t mean it couldn’t be a problem,
7FB902B6-A0B0-4183-9A06-F83DEDAB900F.jpeg

It would probably benefit me to go through and check all connections while I’m in there. If I were to test the starter with jumper cables, I would have to jump it up at the starter solenoid connection, because of the integrated starter cable.
 
If it comes down to the starter cable, there's hopefully enough wiggle room on the routing to cut the terminal off and crimp a new one on. The other (starter) end is soldered... so should be fine.
 
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