Thanks guys! I appreciate the comments!

The guy at the powder coating place told me they bake at 600 degrees, lower if it is an aluminum part. Just for reference.


G'day Bob,

Where did you get your headlight restoration kit/name??

Geedub

Walmart for $15, Sanding discs chuck up in your cordless drill. Super easy to use!
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Mailman, I still have the frame from the 1972 I sent you some bits and pieces from I could check and see if the steering lock is still in it if you are interested.

Thanks Ken, I’ll keep that in mind!
 
So I just had one problem and it was self inflicted. 5Twins noticed that I didn’t remove my steering lock before sending it to the powder coater. I frankly never even thought about it. I kinda figured they would mask it off.
Sorry about your lock.
I'm getting ready to take my frame to to be powder coated. Was debating on taking out the lock. You made my mind up for me.
 
Removing your melted fork lock won't be easy. I think you would have to drill it out. Normally, removal consists of removing the cover plate then turning the lock to the open position. Then the assembly will slide right out of the neck. The cover plate is all that holds it in when it's in the "open" position. In it's "locked" state, the roll pin sticking out of the side locks it into the frame. I discovered all this while "scrounging" my 1st one. I couldn't figure out how to extract it so I cut it out .....

vbhzGv2.png


Once split open, I could see how the roll pin locked into grooves in the neck mount, holding the lock in when it was in the "locked" position. When you turn it to the "open" position, the roll pin aligns with the boss on top of the lock assembly and the whole thing can be slid right out .....

ohzGVHj.png


The cover plate is held on by what Yamaha calls a "rivet". But it's not really a rivet, just a short sort of nail with a slightly tapered, swirled shaft. It gets tighter the more it's driven in .....

h2iEHpF.png


So, to remove it, simply pry the cover along with the rivet up and off.

There were 2 versions of this neck lock used on the 650s. Both are still available from Yamaha but quite expensive for a relatively unused item. The early version used up to around 1975 had a smaller 12mm diameter body. The later version that came along around 1976 had a larger 16mm body diameter. Yamaha gets around $50 for the later lock, near $75 for the early one. This is why I've taken to scrounging them, lol. There's 3 or 4 more sitting in my dealer's boneyard that I can hopefully "liberate".

OQ7wSXv.png


CghmURG.png


7rUtBpk.png


EtKxYzg.png
 
Removing your melted fork lock won't be easy. I think you would have to drill it out. Normally, removal consists of removing the cover plate then turning the lock to the open position. Then the assembly will slide right out of the neck. The cover plate is all that holds it in when it's in the "open" position. In it's "locked" state, the roll pin sticking out of the side locks it into the frame. I discovered all this while "scrounging" my 1st one. I couldn't figure out how to extract it so I cut it out .....

vbhzGv2.png


Once split open, I could see how the roll pin locked into grooves in the neck mount, holding the lock in when it was in the "locked" position. When you turn it to the "open" position, the roll pin aligns with the boss on top of the lock assembly and the whole thing can be slid right out .....

ohzGVHj.png


The cover plate is held on by what Yamaha calls a "rivet". But it's not really a rivet, just a short sort of nail with a slightly tapered, swirled shaft. It gets tighter the more it's driven in .....

h2iEHpF.png


So, to remove it, simply pry the cover along with the rivet up and off.

There were 2 versions of this neck lock used on the 650s. Both are still available from Yamaha but quite expensive for a relatively unused item. The early version used up to around 1975 had a smaller 12mm diameter body. The later version that came along around 1976 had a larger 16mm body diameter. Yamaha gets around $50 for the later lock, near $75 for the early one. This is why I've taken to scrounging them, lol. There's 3 or 4 more sitting in my dealer's boneyard that I can hopefully "liberate".

OQ7wSXv.png


CghmURG.png


7rUtBpk.png


EtKxYzg.png

That’s really good detailed info 5T! Thanks!
You really do have the best reference photos!
 
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Mailman
If you want to get your melted lock out. If needed drill it so you can get a sheet metal screw in it. Then use the screw with a slide hammer. Pops right out. How do I know this. I just removed mine that way. When I went to take it out I found it was a different key than my ignition switch. Different numbers. I do not have lock picking skills. I reverted to brute force. It did not hurt the frame.

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Thanks Ken, I’ll keep that in mind!

I'll check it out as soon as I can. It may take a couple days as I am restricted on what I can do due to the tendon repair on right hand.

Actually I can do much more than SWMBO thinks I can so if she goes shopping I'll make a dash out to the barn and see what I can find! Just have to be careful to not get any greasy smudges on the splint on the right hand!
 
I plan on using them on the various fork locks in my dealer's boneyard. Any I can "pick" in this manner will then slide right out of the steering necks after I remove the cover plates. My whole objective here is to try and save these things for re-use, since they're so expensive to buy.
 
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