Messing around with moderate rearsets

That is very generous of you! I will have to make a mockup from plywood or similar, to establish the dimensions first!

No worries, I’m happy to help. Let me know when you’re ready and I’ll cut you off a section.

I’m going to be crossing the rear set bridge soon so any help & advice would be much appreciated! I’d like to use a set of 1999 R6 rearsets I have on my build.

Daniel.
 
Another option is to not let the brake pedal pivot on the peg mount. You could make a dedicated pivot, lower that the peg to prevent interference.

@bosco659 : http://www.xs650.com/threads/winter...me-r6-forks-and-more.56396/page-5#post-678011

Yes, I was actually doing just that for my RD350, which has threaded bosses on the frame. Footpegs bolt to the upper boss, pedals to the lower boss. C-C between bosses is around 35-40 mm. The muffler brackets just sandwich between the frame and the rearset components.
I made the pivots from M16 SS bolts, turned down to 14 mm, drilled for M8 bolts. The pedals were also made from SS, with a pivot ID of 16 mm. A couple of composite bushings from Ebay fit perfectly. My SS pedals are not as light as I could wish, but I may make some alloy versions later.
 
Well, I finally made a decision on how to solve my rearset conundrum.
As previously mentioned, I made my own rubber mounted plates, using Ducati rubbers. And ended up using a pair of Cognito Moto universal folding pegs and pedals. They are nicely finished, and nicely made, even maybe a bit "over engineered" And I had a problem with Kickstarter clearance and stud/ nut clearance.
After pondering this issue for weeks, I just decided to remove material from the inside of the pedals. They are really beefy in the area where they hit the footpeg studs/ nuts, 18 mm wide/ thick. I did a quick bending stress calculation, using the legal requirement of 1000N force on the pedal, and found very low stresses. I also compared with LSL rearset components, which are a lot skinnier, while still having German TUV approval.
So time to bring out the hacksaw and hand files, thinning the first pedal down from 18 to 11 mm in the problem area, and along the remaining length, as shown in the attached pics. I also fell for the temptation to drill 3 blind "speed holes" while at it. Which didn't amount to much weight saved, maybe 32 g (1 oz)
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but still .
 
Since I made a reference to LSL rearsets, a couple of pics cannot hurt?
The pics show the already thinned down/ drilled Cognito Moto peg/ pedal/ bolt, and the unmodified LSL equivalent that I have used on the RD350 for a while. The weight of a totally stock/ unmodified Cognito Moto assembly is 436 g, for one side. So using LSL pegs would have saved around 350 gram total for both sides. I still went for the heavier option, as I find the LSL just do not look right on a classic bike like the XS.
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Since I made a reference to LSL rearsets, a couple of pics cannot hurt?
The pics show the already thinned down/ drilled Cognito Moto peg/ pedal/ bolt, and the unmodified LSL equivalent that I have used on the RD350 for a while. The weight of a totally stock/ unmodified Cognito Moto assembly is 436 g, for one side. So using LSL pegs would have saved around 350 gram total for both sides. I still went for the heavier option, as I find the LSL just do not look right on a classic bike like the XS.View attachment 185530 View attachment 185531

There’s really nothing to those LSL rearsets is there?
Thanks for posting Arctic, I’m finding this thread very informative, trying to work out what to do in regards to my feet positioning!

Daniel.
 
In general, the LSL are more minimalistic, smaller dimensions and lighter. The pegs are folding, but spring loaded (like many stock rider pegs), so won't stay up for Kickstarter clearance. The Cognito Moto pegs have a ball and spring detent keeping them up. LSL use a composite pivot bushing, Cognito use ball bearings, which I think is totally overkill. No oem rearsets that I know of use ball or roller bearings.
Cognito is sort of "one size fits all", with adjustable linkage levers, like Tarozzi, while LSL have a huge selection of gear and brake pedals, and are totally modular.
LSL do have a dedicated XS650 solution, but the pegs are too far back for my taste. They are here: https://www.lsl.eu/110y017
In that kit, the brake side footpeg actually folds up, and stays up, while the left-hand side peg appears to be fixed.
They also have some other XS items, all nice and undoubtedly high quality.
 
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haha our friend the kitchen scale.

I looked at the ducati footrests, and the spring detent is actually quite simple. maybe you can copy it to your pegs?
 
Today, I made a new toe peg for the shifter pedal. I believe a serrated shifter peg would be too rough on my riding boots. So I used an M8 coupler nut ( long nut), and turned it down to 10.0 mm OD, and used an aftermarket rubber from Yambits, and a domed M8 screw at the end. Pretty happy with it, I must admit.
(BTW, my riding boots are "Daytona", made in Germany. Extremely well made touring boots, pretty much the Mercedes-Benz of motorcycle boots)received_283519469960863.jpeg received_186754069565533.jpeg received_442557233721618.jpeg
 
I think eventually you're going to want/need to get yourself an original Yamaha shift rubber. They're still available, don't cost much, and will most likely last a lifetime. The quality of many aftermarket rubber bits isn't very good.
 
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