Mikes XS Transmission bearings quality?

Tiesco

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Hey, I'm new as a member of this forum and it seems like a pretty tight-knit community. Seems pretty cool. I was curious if any of you guys had ever used the bearings that Mikes XS sells. I only ask this because I bought a set and the needle bearings just didn't seem like they were of that high of quality and kinda raddled if i shake them. Everything fit on nice and rolled good i guess. I'm just wondering if anyone can alleviate my concerns regarding the quality of the bearings.
 
Welcome to the mad house. Sorry but I can offer no info on Mikes bearings quality.
 
I guess I'll just have to see as time goes on. I assume that if they are getting lubricated then it should be good but I really don't know. I couldn't find OEM bearings otherwise I would have gone that route.
 
... the needle bearings just didn't seem like they were of that high of quality and kinda raddled if i shake them...

The needle bearings would be for the small left end of the shiftdrum. Not much movement, or loading, there. Shouldn't be a problem.

The critical bearings are the double-row bearing behind the clutch, and the final output bearing behind the sprocket. The double-row bearing does double-duty, handles the drive loads from the clutch, and handles the lateral loads from clutch disengagement, like a throw-out bearing...
 
The shift drum and gear shafts right? Both gear shafts have one needle bearing and one double-row bearing. And those ends where the needle bearings are don't get subjected to much load?
 
Both gear shafts have one needle bearing and one double-row bearing...

Well, foo. Yer right.
My first major brain-fart of the year.

Yes, both power shafts have a needle bearing opposite the ball bearing.
The ball bearings are laterally affixed into the case by the half-moon clips.
The needle bearings allow for case heat expansion, as much as 1/2mm.

77-up-Trans02.jpg

1st and 2nd gears are outer-most, and would induce the greatest loads on the needle bearings.

Bearing callouts for this engine, like with the "C3" spec for the cam bearings, tend to be a bit loose. Probably to tolerate and accommodate the oil particulates, since this engine was originally designed with screen-type filtration...
 
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I appreciate this information. Unfortunately, the bottom end is back together and I am currently waiting on a nice old fellow I know to finish boring the cylinders a size over. The reason I had to go into the crank in the first place was because a dog ear broke off the 4th/5th pinion gear. I bought this bike in December for pretty cheap. it didn't run and I was hoping for an excuse to tear it all the way down. I didn't think to check for a bent shift fork at all while I was in there. I can always take it apart again I suppose. Whoever owned this bike before me neglected it and dropped it on both sides.
 
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