Miss November XS2 tribute

While I have been messin' about with the electrics, and sorting out how to fit LED indicators - well, that would be turn signals to the American reader - it has gradually dawned on me that the very inexpensive Chinese ones I bought are seriously flimsy and look a bit naff. Not quite in keeping with the character of the motorbike.

So today, have been on that internet and found something which I hope will be more in keeping with the bike's age and it's XS2 replica persona:


wlp012.jpg


Bought four of these. I'll need to buy a new flasher unit as well, but that won't cost much. These indicators have only a single wire, so I guess that means making sure the attachment points on the headlamp brackets and frame are well earthed?

Weren't cheap, but you mustn't spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar. As I'm sure somebody might once have said.
 
Nice Raymond ! I like the original round blinkers very much. Worth the extra effort in my opinion.
I've actually put in that same extra effort before to "round some up". Do you know that phrase ?
Think a minute thinking on the other XS components. Headlight, Gauges, Valve covers, etc. Round fits ! Even round mirrors to finish it off ?
:thumbsup:
 
Yes, you will need to add ground wires to your new signals. Stock set-up had separate ground wires with eyelets fitted over the mounting studs under the nuts (#9 below). Other end gets plugged into a harness ground wire. The headlight bucket or rear fender are not suitable grounds because they are rubber mounted .....

uz4x3oy.jpg
 
The other thing to watch for is the entrance of that hollow threaded rod which attaches the signal (i.e. indicator) to the motorcycle. It is the small cylinder that screws into the turn signal stalk - part #1 on the exploded view above.

On mine, there was a tiny burr on the ID of the hole right at the end where the wire enters and after a few weeks, the burr wore through the insulation on the signal wire and occasionally it would blow a fuse. I had to disassemble the entire signal stalk and de-burr that hole at both ends on all four signals.

Pete
 
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Machine, thank you for the encouragement. Yes to fitting round items, except somebody has fitted one square valve cover on my XS . . .

5T, cheers for the diagram, that's pretty much what I thought - I'll find some ring terminals and connect to good earth points.

Pete, thank you for the warning, will take a good look at the that area. Probably slip some heat shrink over the wire, just a short length to reinforce it at that vulnerable point. The chrome mini-indicators PO had fitted forced the signal wire to make a sharp turn over the outer end of the hollow rod and all of them had frayed/cracked insulation.
 
There should be ground wires and multi ground wire connection points coming out of the main harness, both back at the rear fender and in the headlight bucket.
 
Machine, thank you for the encouragement. Yes to fitting round items, except somebody has fitted one square valve cover on my XS .
Lol ! Hey check out these turn signal pics at the stud thru hole. These woven jackets at the bend are original on these two turn signals. I think they are earlier than 77. Yamaha did address that potential wire wear area at least early on.
-R
 

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Yup - and the photo that Randy just posted is precisely where the insulation on my signal wires wore through.

When I got Lucille, the rear signals were hopelessly chowdered and so I bought the aftermarket ones from Canadian Mikes. While they are a perfect replica of the OEM signals, they lack that little woven reinforcing sleeve on the wires that is visible in Randy’s photo.
 
There should be ground wires and multi ground wire connection points coming out of the main harness, both back at the rear fender and in the headlight bucket.

True, except very little of the original wiring remains. Oh well, at least my one-off wiring has fewer wires than standard.

PS have just seen Randy and Pete's posts - Yup, that's the area that needs heat shrink reinforcement.
 
Tell us why you chose Dot 4 over 3 ?

I can't.

Think I've nearly always used DOT 4. The only exception was a Buell X1 where somebody recommended DOT5 when I fitted a full new front brake system.

I've just checked and I think Yamaha specifies DOT 4 for all their bikes?

Oh dear, this will probably start a huge argument among all the Murricans - at least it's not an oil thread!
 
Hey, Dot 4 ? Tastes terrible..
:lmao:
Tell us why you chose Dot 4 over 3 ?

Hi Machine,
most likely because that's what was available where Ray bought it.
All of my Canadian-sourced brake fluid is labelled DOT3/4 because it's essentially the
same stuff except that.DOT4's maximum use temperature is a bit higher than DOT3's.
Unlike DOT5. That's different and DON'T mix with DOT3/4
 
I can't.
Think I've nearly always used DOT 4. The only exception was a Buell X1 where somebody recommended DOT5 when I fitted a full new front brake system.
I've just checked and I think Yamaha specifies DOT 4 for all their bikes?
Oh dear, this will probably start a huge argument among all the Murricans - at least it's not an oil thread!

Alas, Raymondo,,
you have perhaps started a Harley-bashing thread.
Your Buell was essentially a Harley that was built properly and Harleys use DOT5 because it don't strip paint.
Most other bikes use DOT3/4 because although it's a pretty good paint stripper it's also a better brake fluid than DOT5
 
I personally never top up the brake fluid. When the level gets low I just fit new brake pads or insert a bit of cardboard packing. Avoids the issue of paint getting damaged.
 
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