Miss November XS2 tribute

Is the outer section of the lower shock mount that the bolt passes through mis-aligned possibly?
Yes, that shock mount tab has been found to be bent on a XS in my past. Do check alignment and thread condition from the inboard side.
 

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Is the outer section of the lower shock mount that the bolt passes through mis-aligned possibly? That would bind the bolt up and make it hard to turn. You might try fitting the bolt from the back side to see if it goes in easy that way. Also, I find anti-seize always makes bolts thread in easier.

Thanks for the suggestion 5T & Machine but been investigating with the shocks removed. Have tried both bolts on both lower shock mounts. The l/h bolt binds in all locations and looks to have been cross-threaded or ham-fisted at sometime. The r/h bolt goes freely, by finger pressure, into the r/h hole frontwards 'n' backwards BUT it's too tight to turn in the l/h hole forwards 'n' backwards. So the thread in there is not too happy.

Took the plunge today, no I didn't, dipped one toe in the water and have ordered 2-piece set of M10x1.5 taps to chase the thread. Is that correct terminology? Cost me the grand sum of £5.22 from ebay. Looked at multi-piece sets with all sizes, taps and dies, from too small to too large with various pitches. But they were far too expensive to justify on just this one job. And I've managed without a set hitherto. P'raps some other time?

Another question - should there be a nut behind the shock mount bolt? Both lower bolts on my XS had nylock nuts on the inner end. Seems a bit unusual to me, coz getting at them to torque up is only possible with the wheel out. So took a look at the CMSNL website with its very helpful exploded parts diagrams and couldn't see a nut on there. The old girl likes to have her secrets . . .
 
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Miss November's silencers were damaged in the reversing incident. The woman has put money in my account to pay for a new exhaust system so today spent too much time on line looking to see what is on offer. Ended up with eyes crossed and brain befuddled.

There's a nice offer of XS650 replica silencers from Classic Bike Shop but sadly they're out of stock. Twin-Inn in Germany offer XS650 replica silencers but there are no details. At least none I could find in English and with no idea about quality I decided not to.

Because there's T120 silencers on there just now, looked at simply buying something similar. After a spell of measuring and looking and even some thinking, came to understand why PO fitted the 6" link pipe. The bulge of the silencer fouls the brake lever and the frame unless you find a way to position it further back. Perhaps Commando pea-shooters would fit? The ones I saw are for old-skool narrow down pipes and would rather avoid using an adaptor piece. Even looked at Royal Enfield silencers - some had roughly correct inlet size and they look narrow enough to fit without fouling the brake lever or the frame. But maybe a bit too vintage in appearance so let that one go.

Loads of people offering 'universal' silencers. Yeah, right. Waded though dozens checking inlet diameter, length, position of mounting point. Many are shorty megaphones, which even if you could fit them probably wouldn't look right. And likely to be even louder then the T120 ones there now. What did you say?

But in the end settled for a universal megaphone from Feked in Dorset. Used to buy parts from Feked for my Triumph so I even have an account with them.


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28" long, not very different from the silencer + link pipe that's there now. Their website shows fitment on a Laverda and an SR500. Appearance ain't my top priority, but they are a lot more like the style of the XS originals than present set-up.

They'll be fine.
 
Miss November's silencers were damaged in the reversing incident. The woman has put money in my account to pay for a new exhaust system so today spent too much time on line looking to see what is on offer. Ended up with eyes crossed and brain befuddled.

There's a nice offer of XS650 replica silencers from Classic Bike Shop but sadly they're out of stock. Twin-Inn in Germany offer XS650 replica silencers but there are no details. At least none I could find in English and with no idea about quality I decided not to.

Because there's T120 silencers on there just now, looked at simply buying something similar. After a spell of measuring and looking and even some thinking, came to understand why PO fitted the 6" link pipe. The bulge of the silencer fouls the brake lever and the frame unless you find a way to position it further back. Perhaps Commando pea-shooters would fit? The ones I saw are for old-skool narrow down pipes and would rather avoid using an adaptor piece. Even looked at Royal Enfield silencers - some had roughly correct inlet size and they look narrow enough to fit without fouling the brake lever or the frame. But maybe a bit too vintage in appearance so let that one go.

Loads of people offering 'universal' silencers. Yeah, right. Waded though dozens checking inlet diameter, length, position of mounting point. Many are shorty megaphones, which even if you could fit them probably wouldn't look right. And likely to be even louder then the T120 ones there now. What did you say?

But in the end settled for a universal megaphone from Feked in Dorset. Used to buy parts from Feked for my Triumph so I even have an account with them.


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28" long, not very different from the silencer + link pipe that's there now. Their website shows fitment on a Laverda and an SR500. Appearance ain't my top priority, but they are a lot more like the style of the XS originals than present set-up.

They'll be fine.

They look very nice, I hope you like them!
 
I started out with those on mine and wasn't very happy with them. The "six shooter" baffle is just tack welded in there and one of mine broke loose and fell out within a few hundred miles. It's out laying on the side of the road somewhere, lol, no idea where. I didn't think they sounded too bad, that is until I got the Commando mufflers MikesXS (and Heiden) used to sell. I mounted just one next to the Dunstall and started the bike. Wow, what a difference in sound. The Dunstall replica sounded awful next to the Commando.

Supposedly, someone has reproduced the original Commandos MikesXS used to sell and is going to start selling them shortly (I hope). I'm looking forward to that. I settled on actual Norton Peashooters for my '83 but they are quite loud, to the point that I'm looking to fit baffles to quiet them down some. If it doesn't work out, I think some Commandos are in that bike's future.
 
Been wondering whether its good or not to suggest a stock "Special" exhaust system ?
Raymond you have mentioned that you like quiet? A stock system would mount correct, have the crossover pipe, and work well with the engine. So what are some thoughts there ?
 
Thank you, Gentlemen! Once had the baffle depart from the back end of a megaphone fitted to an SR500. Picked up off the road, stuffed in my rucksack and continued. Still had about 150 miles to cover across the Scottish Highlands and the racket was awful - 500 single on an open megaphone echoing through the glens? I'd rather not.

But I'm hoping the Feked mufflers are slightly better made than some of the cheapo Dunstall replicas I saw yesterday. On the Commando peashooters, the largest inlet I saw was 38mm but the headers are 40.

650trader mentioned he has some well-made silencers - Emgo?- but hasn't got back to me.

Machine, probably don't want a stock system if it has a crossover. Not really looking for quiet. The ideal exhaust would give a deep, mellow sound rising to a throaty roar at big throttle. Uhm, impressive but not too loud. And not a harsh bark or a metallic timbre. But you don't get to try-before-you-buy.

If too noisy, could try adding internal baffles like this:

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Will see (hear?) how it goes and report back.
 
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Moving swiftly on, cleaned up the lower l/h mounting hole. Gentle use of tap twisted by pliers . . . and the new mounting bolt goes fully home easy, fingers only:


PICT2287.JPG

Sorry, my camera don't focus that close up but hopefully shows enough.

But, the lovely new HSS shock fouls the chain guard:


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Lower part of shock at A needs more space than allowed by chain guard at B.

We're talking about 7 or 8 mm - you might see a line between the dimples on the chain guard below B? That's my guesstimate of how much needs to be hacked off or filed away to give clearance.

Still thinking about it. Might pull the chain guard off and saw a bit out. Or could just bend the guard?

Never gets easier when you move away from standard, mutter, mutter.
 
I'd try some re-shaping first. I had to do some minor re-shaping on the TX750 chain guard I fitted to my '83. The TX750 was a Standard style bike with more vertically mounted shocks. The more laid down shock angle of the Special required the indent on the guard be extended at the front .....

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I'd try some re-shaping first. I had to do some minor re-shaping on the TX750 chain guard I fitted to my '83. The TX750 was a Standard style bike with more vertically mounted shocks. The more laid down shock angle of the Special required the indent on the guard be extended at the front .....

Yup, came to the same conclusion. While you were posting that, I was doing this:

PICT2290.JPG

Ain't factory finish but I'm pleased with the shape I achieved through a bit of butchery with hand tools. And don't they say, pretty is as pretty does?

Still haven't done a test fit. Might have to put the wheel in too and make sure the chain won't interfere with the new shock.

Hell, if this lock-down goes on long enough, might even get round to stripping and re-painting the chain guard.
 
Raymondo. Trying to get photo's done and e-bay hooked up so i can offer up some 07-0015
/07-0065 until we get the web site done. Guy i hired and paid finally admitted after a year that he hadn't
done anything so now everything is being restarted with go-daddy web site build. F.....

That's cool, 650T! No worries.

I've ordered some mufflers from Feked which I'm hoping will be good. Shopping for parts across the pond never easy anyhow, let alone in these difficult days.
 
Been in the garage and put back together with modified chain guard.

In the odd idle moment, sometimes wonder . . . No, forget that, when I'm bent double trying to support the weight of a back wheel while also working blind trying to line up the wheel spindle, chain adjusters, assorted spacers, the brake and the wheel - it's at those moments I wonder why they get away with selling bikes that make even routine maintenance tacks bloody near impossible unless you happen to be a double-jointed, two-headed, four-armed freak? Mind you, the XS not as bad as a Harley I once owned.

So, always looking for ways to make the job easier. Getting the back wheel out was not helped by the torque arm securing nut holding on to the tyre like a drowning man. With the wheel out, decided to turn the securing pin around, with the offending nut on the outside, in other words, reversed A & B:


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And while I was at it, replaced the tired (knackered) spilt pin with an 'R' clip:


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A look at factory manual confirmed my suspicion that's the way round it should be. Already said enough about POs.

Tiny change which actually made putting the wheel back just that little bit easier:


PICT2293.JPG


Looks alright with the YSS shocks?

Waiting for the new silencers and the repaired mudguard now.
 
when I'm bent double trying to support the weight of a back wheel while also working blind trying to line up the wheel spindle, chain adjusters, assorted spacers, the brake and the wheel - it's at those moments I wonder why they get away with selling bikes that make even routine maintenance tacks bloody near impossible unless you happen to be a double-jointed, two-headed, four-armed freak?

That really is such a struggle sometimes. A few days ago when I was re mounting my XS2 rear wheel, I found some blocks of wood that were just the right height to rest my wheel on while I slid all the parts together!
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You need a Blackjack 1000 (or equivalent). This is a motorcycle screw jack (not hydraulic) and allows you to set the bike exactly at any height needed - and it will stay there. You can set the height exactly for easy axle removal and install, jack it up higher to roll the wheel in and out.

aWsFOm2.jpg


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I got the real one but cheaper Chinese copies are all over eBay .....

https://www.derekweaver.com/bikers-garage/motorcycle-jacks/weaver-w-blackjack-motorcycle-jack/

I don't mind having spent more on the real deal. It's very well made, works very well, and I use it all the time. I rarely use any of the included attachments. Instead, I usually just lay a length of 2 x 6 on the jack top to pad between it and the bike frame.
 
. . . when I'm bent double trying to support the weight of a back wheel while also working blind trying to line up the wheel spindle, chain adjusters, assorted spacers, the brake and the wheel - it's at those moments I wonder why they get away with selling bikes that make even routine maintenance tacks bloody near impossible unless you happen to be a double-jointed, two-headed, four-armed freak?

Sorry, still feeling a bit knackered after struggling with the back wheel when I wrote that. Bit OTT.

But although it is always a faff, have learned a few tricks down the years. As you say, Bob, bits of wood the right height helps a lot. I have a box of wooden blocks and some wedges. Usually use one block nearly high enough, plus a wedge to give the last bit of height. As you pull the spindle/axle out, the wheel tends to roll forward on the wedge which makes freeing the chain from the sprocket a bit easier. In the photos above you might notice a plank under the centre stand - gives a bit more height, which helps for getting the wheel in & out. Tend to use grease to 'glue' the spacers in the hub. Today, remembered the XS has a split chain so pulled the link out and reassembled the chain after the wheel was in - one less item to faff about with.

5T - I like your suggestion of a Blackjack. I imagine you use this instead of the centre stand, adjust the height to get the wheel and frame all lined up? I suppose you can the lift the bike a bit further if the wheel won't come out because the mudguard gets in the way. BTW - that's one problem I did not have today.

Don't know if the Derek Weaver Blackjack is available in Britain but I'll have a look around and see what is.

Cheers, Raymond
 
Yes, you use just the jack, no centerstand. You start with the bike on the sidestand and slide the jack under it to approximately where you want it. Then you push the bike upright with the left handlebar grip, off the sidestand, and crank the jack up. Get it high enough to be stable on the jack but with the rear wheel still on the ground. Then the axle will slide in and out easily. If not quite right, a small adjustment on the jack screw will put you where you need to be. Then, yes, once the axle is out, crank the jack up so the wheel will roll out beneath the fender. Once you put the wheel back in, lower the jack to align the axle hole in the swingarm to the one in the wheel. With the screw powered lift/lower adjustment, you can do this exactly.

What I don't like about hydraulic jacks is they tend to sink if left sitting for a while. Also, it's very difficult to make small adjustments in the lift height, especially trying to get a little lower.
 
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