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Miss November XS2 tribute

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Raymond, Jun 13, 2019.

  1. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider, fettler, setting out on a journey XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Well, I've come to me senses on the wire wheels dilemma.

    The shopping list looks like this:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-INCH-...696878?hash=item2f4a6689ee:g:C8gAAOSwEINe5hc8

    https://www.heidentuning.com/xs650-...ings/front-wheel-hub-xs-650-73-84-detail.html

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-X...77-Rear-Brake-Braking-Pivot-Rod-/333483475339

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1623910870?iid=202964606518

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19-WM2-S...940973?hash=item216118e02d:g:2fEAAOSwgdtcQG1d

    That comes to £529, plus international shipping and possibly taxes for the Jerry Heiden wheel hub. Plus, there's the hassles I haven't discovered yet. Which might include where to attach the return spring on the brake pivot or how to fit the brake light switch. Because, when you change anything on a motorbike, there's always knock-on effects you didn't foresee.

    So the cost-benefit analysis is looking like:
    Cost - substantial, benefit - intangible. In fact, just the style really.

    Conclusion - reluctantly, going to abandon the idea of fitting wire wheels and instead concentrate on fitting out the TX750 s-arm for the existing brake torque rod. That gives me enough to get on with.

    The money saved can be spent on other changes later. Or if spent on petrol would be enough to push me old bones and the Tangerine Nightmare a good few thousands of miles down the road.
     
  2. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    Not trying to make you change your mind..........

    SR front wheel will save you 200 + the shipping and Tax, (may need new bearings), or not. Then there is the resale of your mags and if the lugs are taken off carefully the full Disk brake set up with wheels has to be worth a fair bit over there

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/yamaha-xs650-sr500-front-wheel/284037454600?_trkparms=aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=225076&meid=6a05f59227cc4284b3543478d039436e&pid=100623&rk=2&rkt=5&sd=203111696878&itm=284037454600&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&algv=DefaultOrganic&brand=Yamaha&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1
     
    Raymond likes this.
  3. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider, fettler, setting out on a journey XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    No, of course you're not, Skull!

    That SR front wheel is one of the items I've been looking at over the past few days - its been laced to a 16" rim. If I go to Roy Thersby to rebuild it on a 19" rim, gonna cost me £280. I know that 'coz he's done a lovely job rebuilding the Honda NX250 rear wheel from 16 to 17". The price he charged me works out as cost of alloy rim, stainless spokes, plus £60 labour for building it. Which was a bargain, as he's vapour blasted the hub while he was at it.

    I fully take the point about selling the mag wheels, must admit I didn't think about the rear disc set up, which would have some value? But again, have to balance the hassle factor against the benefit which will accrue.

    Nope.
     
    MaxPete likes this.
  4. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    I didn't read it through......16" rim..........mmmmm
     
    Raymond and MaxPete like this.
  5. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Even if you find a complete 650 wheel, chances are you'll need to replace the spokes anyway. After 40 years, cad plated spokes aren't lookin' very good, lol. That's why I don't like to pay much for old wheels. I know I'm going to need to put another near $100 into them for stainless spokes and maybe some bearings and/or seals.
     
    Raymond and MaxPete like this.
  6. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider, fettler, setting out on a journey XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    TwoManyXS1Bs, MaxPete and Jim like this.
  7. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Following a tip from Mailman I think, I use a paint can opener to pry the bezel lip open. I filed the tip a bit sharper so it inserts under the lip easier .....

    [​IMG]

    This won't open the lip all the way but does it enough so that you can finish the job with some pliers. I use some mini smooth faced flat nose ones like this. No need to custom grind them or anything, they work fine just the way they are .....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I also follow Gary's technique of putting a large hose clamp around the bezel. This gives something to squeeze the pliers against.
     
  8. MaxPete

    MaxPete Lucille, Betty & Demi - I suggest but THEY decide. XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Following with interest!
    I’d rate this one:
    :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
     
    Raymond and YamadudeXS650C like this.
  9. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    When this method, (screwdriver), is used, ......... doing the last run around the lip there has to be a lot of pressure forcing the bezel out ward.......to the point where it feels like its over stretched and could distort......... its not it springs back..........The secret to a tidy job is small increments when prizing it open, and closing it up,............... and especially leaving a potion not opened at all to get the bezel to seal properly when closing it up
    8 the lip is getting to the fully opened stage.JPG 10.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2020
    YamadudeXS650C and MaxPete like this.
  10. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Yes, I guess it should be mentioned - no need to open the lip up all the way around, only about 2/3 of the way.
     
    Raymond likes this.
  11. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor



    Its how i got my nickname Skull...........common name is Doug........bit of skull douggery............hence skull
     
  12. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    Bought these, Plastic cup gauge speedo,reads 120 KPH, Hard to find and excitement got the better of me and didn't ask for a pic from behind...........Payed for that.
    a t IMG_2734.jpg
    Steel Gauge cam from a 74/75 set i bought. couldn't see the damage under the rubber damper....
    a t IMG_2715.jpg
    Just another caution, (not that i think you will be heavy handed), showing the need for going in small increments and gently

    When i made the tutorial the pics are of the second time i had done this.
     
    MaxPete and Raymond like this.
  13. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider, fettler, setting out on a journey XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    First thing I did today was attempt to fashion a special tool for prising the bevel, by bending the tip of a small screwdriver. After putting a small screwdriver in the vice and breaking it . . .

    . . . decided to go with my usual assortment of poking and prising tools. It sure ain't pretty:


    PICT2443.JPG


    but in the end, persistence was rewarded:


    PICT2444.JPG


    And able to retrieve the two tiny screws that fell out in the first place.

    Rewarded meself with an outing on the little Honda. Tomorrow, reassemble with Loctite and mash up the bevel. Maybe just as well I have a spare?
     
    MaxPete, Jim and Mailman like this.
  14. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider, fettler, setting out on a journey XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    With the Honda well and truly filthy, pressed on with the tacho.

    Face screwed back on, pressed back into the bezel:

    PICT2445.JPG


    There's Loctite on those screws:

    PICT2447.JPG


    Here's the back with the bevel pushed back down all around:

    PICT2448.JPG


    As said, not pretty. But if I maybe touch up the paint around the rim, and re-install with a new rubber damper ring? Point is, if it works I'll be happy enough.
     
  15. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    After I push the rim back down all around, I final finish it using a 1/4" drive extension and a small hammer to gently tap it down. You can get it very smooth and looking quite good if you take this final step, removing all the "wrinkles" from the prying open process.
     
    TwoManyXS1Bs, MaxPete and Raymond like this.
  16. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider, fettler, setting out on a journey XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    That's kind of how did it. First, rocked the raised edge back down, pushing with a 3/8 drive. Then, gently applied a hammer to the 3/8 drive till it's all down flat. But it wasn't very tidy once I had pulled it apart. And there's a few dents paint coming off around the rim. Never mind, hope the tacho works.
     
    MaxPete likes this.
  17. 650Skull

    650Skull SSSSSSSSSlither Top Contributor

    Congrats...........If your happy and the bezel is tight then all should be good.........if you think that the bezel lip could let water in maybe a sealer smeared around the lip............Living on the borders there is plenty of opportunity for scotch mist :wink2: getting inside the gauge

    I looked at all sorts of ways when pressing the lip back down............Using pliers i couldn't see a way they wasn't going to damage the bezel in some way, be it in the clamping process or a mistake if the slipped..........

    Yea i guess it should be mentioned.......as shown in the tutorial.....a 1/4 socket drive is the best way to get the bezel lip back on tight.
     
    MaxPete, Mailman and Raymond like this.
  18. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider, fettler, setting out on a journey XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    TX750 swing arm back from engineers:

    PICT2450.JPG


    Rob has moved the brake arm bracket from under to on top, has added two brackets to hold the brake line and has put a threaded insert to locate the front of the chain guard. I'm very happy with the job he's done.

    Next to have the paint removed - I hope Mark Paxton is still in business.
     
    Jim, Mailman, beano and 2 others like this.
  19. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider, fettler, setting out on a journey XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Today, took off the centre stand. First had to figure out how to support the bike:


    PICT2451.JPG


    Blocks of wood, plus a sling attached to the block & chain. Just in case . . .

    Stand removed:

    PICT2453.JPG


    A minor thing that surprised me - those two through bolts both had 17 mm nuts, but one had 17 mm head and t'other was 19 mm.

    Uhm, why?

    Tomorrow, hope to take swing arm, brake rod, chain guard and centre stand for aqua blasting.
     
    Jim and Mailman like this.
  20. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    That's all for your centerstand, just a paint job? You should take it to your welder and have the tang braced. It will eventually break off if you don't .....

    [​IMG]

    You should also install grease fittings on the pivot tubes. It's amazing how much easier the stand will deploy if the pivots are kept well greased .....

    [​IMG]

    But, to install the grease nipples, you'll need another little "mod" from your welder. The pivot tubing isn't quite thick enough. The grease fitting will stick through, contacting and rubbing on the pivot bolt. So, you'll need your welder to build up a little blob of weld right where the leg meets the pivot tube, right on top of the weld that's already there .....

    [​IMG]

    Then you can grind a flat on it, center-punch, drill, and tap it for the fitting .....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then the stand can be sent out for blasting and you can paint it, lol.
     
    Grimly, TwoManyXS1Bs, MaxPete and 2 others like this.

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