Miss November XS2 tribute

So, I see the posts on this subject range over 3-4 years, and as you point out the tech continues to evolve. I wasn’t able to fully understand/find explanation for the pros and cons so will try here: I am considering an H4 LED into a 6” after-market headshell. My hope is this would place a lower demand when idling/start-up given that I’m using a capacitor. The low beam is wired direct and while contemplating an on/off switch, I wondered if an LED bulb is a worthy alternative? Is the load less than conventional bulb? And I read references that these are not PMA/regulator friendly. I have PMA and regulator and ignition from one of the popular providers. Is that so, and why? If compatible, are they plug and play as this one suggests?

https://auxito.com/products/9003-h4...bDxBFdAI-88kLEilbtsKJPA8omCKl0kgaAsAMEALw_wcB


Thanks. Todd

LEDs continue to evolve rapidly.
In testing about 6 LED bulbs I did a couple years ago any bulbs that had a "standard" metal base were not bright "enough" compared to bulbs with some sort of external cooling capacity. That might have changed but there is a finite lower limit to how much waste heat needs to be shed per lunem of usable light using LED technology.
Some of that here. https://www.xs650.com/threads/led-headlight-conversions-ideas-good-and-bad.50174/#post-517974
It would be great if you post some before after pics there. I'll try to get out and do the same with some more recent bulbs. Sorry about the link, They are available in the USA. My goto favorite Broview S5 bulb as seen in the thread above is NLA. The ones you bought look to have the correct housing shield around the LED chip to direct light LIKE an incandescent or quartz H4 bulb which is SO important.
I need to do some headlight bulb work on the new to me R1200GS it has some LED aux lights but I suspect they are just ghetto blasters with poor or no shielding for oncoming drivers. The prob with that bike is it's canbus so anything other than the stock bulbs throw a dash warning. :cussing:I HATE adding resisters to "cover up" for a more efficient bulb, it's just SO wrong.
I think I saw some "British" MOTs reg banning LEDs in older vehicles designed for incandescent bulbs. There is some rationale there. But the market is correcting for some of the early problems of dazzling oncoming drivers.
 
Oh … weird. My error. Thanks.
No worries!

To get back on track, picture from the web of the XS2 colour scheme to which Miss November pays tribute:

XS2.jpg
 
No.

I suppose I might try and make up something?
You can buy packs of grommets from various hobby electronic stores online (used to be you could get them almost anywhere, but meh).
As an expedient, I've often cut a short length of twin&earth, removed the outer jacket by slitting it down the side and laying that edge-wise into the metal hole. Get the size just right and it's a permanent fix as long as you don't mind a grey grommet.
 
The Great Salt started a week ago. But there's been two days of rain, and it's not as cold now, and today is sunny, and the roads are dry. So out we go!

Opportunistic, almost like a stolen outing at this time of year. Only twenty miles on some local roads but that felt good.

BTW, having applied 5T's advice about getting the clutch adjustment just so I have to say the clutch felt real good, pretty much like a clutch ought to feel.
 
The Great Salt started a week ago. But there's been two days of rain, and it's not as cold now, and today is sunny, and the roads are dry. So out we go!

Opportunistic, almost like a stolen outing at this time of year. Only twenty miles on some local roads but that felt good.

BTW, having applied 5T's advice about getting the clutch adjustment just so I have to say the clutch felt real good, pretty much like a clutch ought to feel.

Nice one Raymond. My bikes in bits again, starting the winter project rewire.
 
Seeing the discussion about problems with availability of BP7ES plugs on the

Finally got a bike after a few setbacks. What oil, plugs, etc?​

thread, had a quick look on UK ebay.

And with these available at a not-unreasonable £8.69 for four with free P&P it seemed almost silly not to . . .


PICT2813.JPG
 
Spark plugs are the new oil thread , who knew? :laugh2: Like some others here, I went the other way, I installed NGK non resistor plug caps and I am now running Autolite AP63 platinum spark plugs in both of my bikes. They are available everywhere, inexpensive and work great!
62876F4C-47E6-4186-9349-C5D523A987B4.jpeg
 
Hey Raymond,
Welcome to the XS fam bam! There are a lot of knowledgable folks on here. These bikes a joy to work on if you like getting your hands dirty! Mailman and Maxpete have helped me numerous times with my classic build. I got my first xs and joined just like you. My bike which I got three years ago now is a 73 TX650! I decided to save it from it’s cafè racer look the previous owner was going for and make it look stock but with some nice upgrades. I started with rebuilding suspension and brakes and carbies. Replaced rear shocks because they were not rebuildable. Brand I went to was Koni or now Ikon shocks that look stock but can be rebuilt later on! Polished the lowers on the fork, wheels and other bits. With the help of my sparky mates the bike got completely rewired front to back. I put on a electric ignition (removed the points) put on a PMA kit (permanent magnet Alternator)
Later on through this forum a lot of folks recommended getting new carbs. Mikuni VM34’s. Set em and forget em. Two years later I rebuilt the engine top to bottom and put the 447 cam in! At that time I did the bushings to the swing arm and all the rubber fittings around the bike with all new nuts and bolts. You can attend to your headset straight away and get tapered bearings! Let the fun begin!! Enjoy and take care!!
Lewi


Knee’s in the breeze
 
Spark plugs are the new oil thread , who knew? :laugh2: Like some others here, I went the other way, I installed NGK non resistor plug caps and I am now running Autolite AP63 platinum spark plugs in both of my bikes. They are available everywhere, inexpensive and work great!
View attachment 207210
:agree:
 
Hey Raymond,
Welcome to the XS fam bam! There are a lot of knowledgable folks on here. These bikes a joy to work on if you like getting your hands dirty! Mailman and Maxpete have helped me numerous times with my classic build. I got my first xs and joined just like you. My bike which I got three years ago now is a 73 TX650! I decided to save it from it’s cafè racer look the previous owner was going for and make it look stock but with some nice upgrades. I started with rebuilding suspension and brakes and carbies. Replaced rear shocks because they were not rebuildable. Brand I went to was Koni or now Ikon shocks that look stock but can be rebuilt later on! Polished the lowers on the fork, wheels and other bits. With the help of my sparky mates the bike got completely rewired front to back. I put on a electric ignition (removed the points) put on a PMA kit (permanent magnet Alternator)
Later on through this forum a lot of folks recommended getting new carbs. Mikuni VM34’s. Set em and forget em. Two years later I rebuilt the engine top to bottom and put the 447 cam in! At that time I did the bushings to the swing arm and all the rubber fittings around the bike with all new nuts and bolts. You can attend to your headset straight away and get tapered bearings! Let the fun begin!! Enjoy and take care!!
Lewi


Knee’s in the breeze
Hello TL and welcome to the Miss November thread.
Raymond is an old hand here and knows more about bikes than most.
Check out his numerous posts.
Mind you we are all willing to learn and share.
Ads.
 
Spark plugs are the new oil thread , who knew? :laugh2: Like some others here, I went the other way, I installed NGK non resistor plug caps and I am now running Autolite AP63 platinum spark plugs in both of my bikes. They are available everywhere, inexpensive and work great!
View attachment 207210
I don’t like change. The old bike works good. The old plugs work good. Please don’t make me change.
 
As discussed on What have you done to your XS today, the pilot system seems to have gummed up. Started by taking the r/h float bowl off. Using a cross head bit in an 8mm socket and a small ratchet drive it was not too hard except you are working pretty much blind on the inner pair of screws. But with the bowl off I thought, that doesn't really help me get to the pilot system. So it was off with the seat, the tank, the carbs:

PICT2850.JPGPICT2852.JPG


New float bowl gaskets on order from Yambits. Waiting for those will give me two or three days to clean up the carbs.
 
As discussed on What have you done to your XS today, the pilot system seems to have gummed up. Started by taking the r/h float bowl off. Using a cross head bit in an 8mm socket and a small ratchet drive it was not too hard except you are working pretty much blind on the inner pair of screws. But with the bowl off I thought, that doesn't really help me get to the pilot system. So it was off with the seat, the tank, the carbs:
New float bowl gaskets on order from Yambits. Waiting for those will give me two or three days to clean up the carbs.

Always something to do on these old machines, eh Raymond? ;)
 
Something I've started doing is smearing red rubber grease all over the diaphragm and applying a little bit in the groove around the top of the carb .....

DiaphragmGreased.jpg


DiaphragmGreased2.jpg


DiaphragmGreased3.jpg


DiaphragmGreased4.jpg


This seals the diaphragm into the carb body very, very well. Normally, to test the diaphragm's integrity, sealing, and function, you lift it with a finger, cover the oval slot at the top of the intake bell, and watch how fast the slide drops. You want it to drop very slowly, the slower it does, the better it's sealing and working. With the grease in there, it drops so slowly you can barely see it move.
 
Something I've started doing is smearing red rubber grease all over the diaphragm and applying a little bit in the groove around the top of the carb . . .
Must confess I was not familiar with red rubber grease - must've led a sheltered life. But took a look and have ended up buying this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19184982...s=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1CLfZjqryTbG4znHASSRJ0A22

Specially formulated for applications where mineral-based grease would give problems so I'll give your idea a try - Thank You for the suggestion!
 
That's odd because it is an English "thing". I first heard about it here on the forum from an English member. It's hard to find in the States and I ended up buying mine from England. I've become quite fond of it, putting it on all my rubber bits now. It's great on the footpeg mount rubber bushings, making them slide on and off easily, even after they've been mounted for some time. I've also started applying it to my rims in the dropped center under the rim band, hoping it will help ward off corrosion .....

DropCenterGreasing.jpg
 
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