More carb questions.

Jgimar, I think you are getting the idea here Swapping plugs was my next suggestion. Troubleshooting is a logical progression, 1 change at a time.
 
Jgimar, I think you are getting the idea here Swapping plugs was my next suggestion. Troubleshooting is a logical progression, 1 change at a time.
Well, was able to get back sooner than expected. Did two things , first tried it by flipping wires, and then flipping plugs. Negative results. Fired up easily enough but same response out of both carbs.
 
Well, was able to get back sooner than expected. Did two things , first tried it by flipping wires, and then flipping plugs. Negative results. Fired up easily enough but same response out of both carbs.


So how do you feel about open up the right carburetor 1/4 turn at a time on the synchronization screw see if that changes it
and counting the adjustment so it can be set back if no change
 
So how do you feel about open up the right carburetor 1/4 turn at a time on the synchronization screw see if that changes it
and counting the adjustment so it can be set back if no change
Man i’ll try anything. Right now what i do is rake what advise i’m given and apply that. When i do that i go back to scratch. I set both carbs 1 1/2 turns out and then crank it up. I’ll let it warm up and then raise the rpm to about 1000 then tinker with the sir screws. Usually the right one first , i turn about half a turn in, so three slow 1/2 turns and as always no result. I’ll then bring it back out 1/2 turn at a time to see if any changes. I will only notice a change when i get to about 2 1/2 turns , uncreased acceleration and popping.
The left side, same procedure, but at a 1/2 turn in i already begin to notice a drop in rpm, another 1:2 turn and it’s stumbling, any more and it kills it. So at the 1 turn in point i back it out ever slow slowly to where it smooths out, which is roughly back to the 1 1/2 turn point. Anything you got, i’ll try.
 
We are not talking about the same screw I do believe

Sync is that one

sync.png
 
We are not talking about the same screw I do believe

Sync is that one

View attachment 200324
Oops, i think i missed the part reference the syn screw. Gottcha, yes! Right now i have those butterflies set equally. I didn’t realize you could jack with those, thought they had to be the same. I’ll follow your lead and let you know what happens!
At work right now so it will be a bit!
 
Well yes, they should be set so they are sitting open equally at idle. That sync adjuster screw is how you do it. It controls the opening on the right carb's butterfly plate, and that allows you to match it to the left carb's plate. The left carb's plate opening is controlled by setting the idle speed screw. But, since the carbs are linked, the idle speed screw is going to move both plates together. They must be matched to one another for the carbs to be "in sync".
 
Well yes, they should be set so they are sitting open equally at idle. That sync adjuster screw is how you do it. It controls the opening on the right carb's butterfly plate, and that allows you to match it to the left carb's plate. The left carb's plate opening is controlled by setting the idle speed screw. But, since the carbs are linked, the idle speed screw is going to move both plates together. They must be matched to one another for the carbs to be "in sync".
I got that. What you are telling me is the way i was taught. I never gave it any thought to mess with them…until now… so, the other fella says to adjust the right one slightly to see what happens. So if i do and i have a positive result, do i leave ut and proceed from there? Is it copacetic to have one butterfly open more than the other. Doesn’t seem so but i’m a rookie!
 
Well no, but I have a sneaking feeling that's how they are now, lol. If things are as I suspect, the right butterfly plate is practically closed and the left one is more open, "carrying" the motor along and establishing the idle speed. Start playing with the sync screw as the bike sits there idling. As you get the plates closer to being synced, the idle speed should drop off (both plates nearly closed) and you'll probably have to adjust the idle speed up some more to keep the bike running.
 
Well no, but I have a sneaking feeling that's how they are now, lol. If things are as I suspect, the right butterfly plate is practically closed and the left one is more open, "carrying" the motor along and establishing the idle speed. Start playing with the sync screw as the bike sits there idling. As you get the plates closer to being synced, the idle speed should drop off (both plates nearly closed) and you'll probably have to adjust the idle speed up some more to keep the bike running.
Alright, but i used a feeler gauge to set both of them. I would hope i’m not thats screwed up. Keep ya posted.
 
Well no, but I have a sneaking feeling that's how they are now, lol. If things are as I suspect, the right butterfly plate is practically closed and the left one is more open, "carrying" the motor along and establishing the idle speed. Start playing with the sync screw as the bike sits there idling. As you get the plates closer to being synced, the idle speed should drop off (both plates nearly closed) and you'll probably have to adjust the idle speed up some more to keep the bike running.
Well no, but I have a sneaking feeling that's how they are now, lol. If things are as I suspect, the right butterfly plate is practically closed and the left one is more open, "carrying" the motor along and establishing the idle speed. Start playing with the sync screw as the bike sits there idling. As you get the plates closer to being synced, the idle speed should drop off (both plates nearly closed) and you'll probably have to adjust the idle speed up some more to keep the bike running.
Okay, JanP and 5twins here's the result. Prior to performing your suggestions, I pulled the carbs off and again checked and set the butterflies with a feeler gauge. both were set equally and opened and closed same. Re-installed, fired it up , started the process as instructed . incremental turns CW with no results until it finally started stumbling, turned back to as close as possible to original setting then turned CCW slowly and also nothing until it started stumbling. you probably expected the rpm to rise during the opening process, which it did and which I adjusted with the idle screw, also on the opening process I tried adjustments on the air screw with no noticeable results.
 
Please describe the setting with a feeler gauge I don't see how it is done
I have held the Carbs against the light and visually inspected the opening this is not the correct way but has worked
If you use a feeler gauge in one intake ..do you have a second one in the other intake.
The throttle spring moves it to closed once you remove the feeler gauge
Or am I Missing something here
 
Please describe the setting with a feeler gauge I don't see how it is done
I have held the Carbs against the light and visually inspected the opening this is not the correct way but has worked
If you use a feeler gauge in one intake ..do you have a second one in the other intake.
The throttle spring moves it to closed once you remove the feeler gauge
Or am I Missing something here
Maybe i am. We take a flat object( feeler gauge) and raise the left butterfly until the gauge slides under, the the same with the right side. Check to see the sliding of the gauge feels the same for both sides. Actuate the throttle to see if they open equally and also hold up to the light and eyeball for equal illumination. What do ya think? Am i all screwed up?
 
Maybe i am. We take a flat object( feeler gauge) and raise the left butterfly until the gauge slides under, the the same with the right side. Check to see the sliding of the gauge feels the same for both sides. Actuate the throttle to see if they open equally and also hold up to the light and eyeball for equal illumination. What do ya think? Am i all screwed up?

Might be to many springs involved to be reliable
May I suggest the eyeballing method it can be difficult if carb is on the bike but try that
And when that looks OK try to start .. And if the one side stalls adjust in such a manner that that side is more open not touching the throttle handle
Or put it like this not toucuhing the throttle assuming the left closed open the right side a little counting the adjustment turns
So it can be put back
 
Might be to many springs involved to be reliable
May I suggest the eyeballing method it can be difficult if carb is on the bike but try that
And when that looks OK try to start .. And if the one side stalls adjust in such a manner that that side is more open not touching the throttle handle
Or put it like this not toucuhing the throttle assuming the left closed open the right side a little counting the adjustment turns
So it can be put back
Okay. Absent any other suggestions I’ll let ya know where we end up tomorrow. Thanks
 
Okay. Absent any other suggestions I’ll let ya know where we end up tomorrow. Thanks
To all you trying to help me I appreciate it, but I’m afraid I’ll have to put my bike issues on the back burner for a bit. A good friend of mine has been moved to hospice care, so I’ll be a bit busy checking on him and assisting on things he needs done before, well, you know. Let ya know when I get back to it. Thanks!
 
To all you trying to help me I appreciate it, but I’m afraid I’ll have to put my bike issues on the back burner for a bit. A good friend of mine has been moved to hospice care, so I’ll be a bit busy checking on him and assisting on things he needs done before, well, you know. Let ya know when I get back to it. Thanks!
Best wishes
 
To all you trying to help me I appreciate it, but I’m afraid I’ll have to put my bike issues on the back burner for a bit. A good friend of mine has been moved to hospice care, so I’ll be a bit busy checking on him and assisting on things he needs done before, well, you know. Let ya know when I get back to it. Thanks!
Good on you. Taking care of friends is more important than a bike.
 
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