More shitty shit from MikesXS

Griz has a good point. Looking at alternative options is good, but you really dont want to take ANY chances with important " innards ".....

??? What else could be wrong with the gear ??? Definitely dont want to use anything questionable in there.

P.S. Miks sucks...This is BS you shouldnt have to deal with. Sorry for that.
 
Im actually kinda worried that im gonna get another crap gear! Mikes is asking for an exact measurement which I dont have off hand so ill follow up with yall on it when I get a direct answer from them about it.
 
I just got the 5th gear od in the mail and it doesnt fit! Its maybe a couple thousands off if that. I double checked the shaft to make sure its not me. A quick google search and I found several others with the same issue that had to take it to a machine shop to get it bored out. Still waiting on a reply from mikes BS

Does this post: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=353643&postcount=89

From this thread: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=411

Help at all? You need a micrometer to closely check this. Too bad you're not closer, I'd open it up for you...
 
??? What else could be wrong with the gear ???

The first step to making a gear is selecting the right steel alloy. Too little carbon and the teeth and dogs will wear rapidly. Too much carbon and the gear will shatter like glass. There are high grade steels that have very good strength and ductility but that takes $$$ and likely wouldn't fit the price point of this part.

Along with this is the heat treat procedure. Typically, a gear will be made from a "softer" alloy and is case hardened. That is where the surface is hardened to resist wear but the center is left ductile to resist breaking. Again, if too soft it will wear, if too hard it will break.

Another critical element of a gear is the tooth profile. The faces of the teeth are rounded so that the teeth roll over each other rather than slide. An incorrectly cut gear will make more noise and wear faster. I have my doubts whether it is even possible for them to cut these gears correctly since they are changing the tooth count on one gear and mating it to a stock gear without altering center-to-center distance.

The absolute simplest part of making a gear is putting the hole in the middle of it.

I'm sure the manufacturer overlooked the bore because they were so focused on getting all the hard stuff done correctly. :wink2:
 
Hugh stated hes had to bore every single 5th gear hes gotten from mikes so it must be a tooling issue in china, go figure.mikes need to state this in their ad. Im glad im not alone but mikes is going to act like they never heard of such a thing. I mic'd it last night but my bat died so I dont have an exact number til I can replace the batt tonight. The od gear was just a hair size off to small just enough to not fit. I have 2 shafts so I tried both Theres a shop in town ima ask them about it
 
Mike's will never point out a product defect in their ads, nor will they abandon the long-standing practice of selling parts known to be defective until the stock is sold out. Mrriggs has gone into detail on the issues of material and treatment that I mentioned.

The only reason for the obsession with raising the gearing of the XS650 is lack of familiarity with the behavior of 360* parallel twin engines without mechanical balancers. Here's some news for you kids: dropping a single tooth from the rear sprocket will give the XS650 the same final drive ratio as the 1968 650 Triumph Bonneville I rode back in the day.

The XS650 motor is made to operate at higher rpm than a Hardly Ableson, and you can't lug it without doing damage. If the motor is in a healthy state of tune there's no reason a stock XS650 can't be cruised at 80 mph.
 
Mike's will never point out a product defect in their ads, nor will they abandon the long-standing practice of selling parts known to be defective until the stock is sold out. Mrriggs has gone into detail on the issues of material and treatment that I mentioned.

The only reason for the obsession with raising the gearing of the XS650 is lack of familiarity with the behavior of 360* parallel twin engines without mechanical balancers. Here's some news for you kids: dropping a single tooth from the rear sprocket will give the XS650 the same final drive ratio as the 1968 650 Triumph Bonneville I rode back in the day.

The XS650 motor is made to operate at higher rpm than a Hardly Ableson, and you can't lug it without doing damage. If the motor is in a healthy state of tune there's no reason a stock XS650 can't be cruised at 80 mph.


:thumbsup: confirmed......im a speeder...she absouletly HUM's at 70-75.......least amount of vibe's are around 67-73 or so for me.....

When I say vibes, ...I sit on the steel pan basically....almost NO cushioning....I have honda rebel shocks and dirt bike foot pegs.....I have no luxury's at all and shes still comfy.....

I bet the stock bikes with those thick ass seats are MUCH different feeling than mine.
 
Mike's will never point out a product defect in their ads, nor will they abandon the long-standing practice of selling parts known to be defective until the stock is sold out. Mrriggs has gone into detail on the issues of material and treatment that I mentioned.

The only reason for the obsession with raising the gearing of the XS650 is lack of familiarity with the behavior of 360* parallel twin engines without mechanical balancers. Here's some news for you kids: dropping a single tooth from the rear sprocket will give the XS650 the same final drive ratio as the 1968 650 Triumph Bonneville I rode back in the day.

The XS650 motor is made to operate at higher rpm than a Hardly Ableson, and you can't lug it without doing damage. If the motor is in a healthy state of tune there's no reason a stock XS650 can't be cruised at 80 mph.

Thanks for this information, I've been cruising slower than I would like because of all I have read about changing gearing for higher cruising speeds and what not. I really like the way my bike is running, but I want it to run for a long time. I do think I'll investigate a rear sprocket with one less tooth as advised, because I may want to cruise at 90 for a few miles.:bike:
 
The 1-tooth change wasn't a recommendation, I just wanted to clarify things a bit. My favorite sprocket combination is 17/32--2 teeth down in the rear.
 
Totally agree with the griz, of the ratios I've tried 17/32 gives the best combination of hiway performance and around town ridability.

roy

Thanks guys, sorry to be off topic, sounds like I'm going to be ordering a sprocket soon.
 
^^ do it! I just did the swap to 17/32 and I love it! About 65 at 4,000 rpm on the freeway. Still climbs hills with no problem. :laugh:

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So I measured the gear at 24.77mm and I give this info to mikes. They sent me an email back stating I infact need the gear they sent me(ya no joke) that I need to check the shaft for burrs! Wth. No worries though I have a friend that is taking care of it today for me I should have my gear back tonight and ready for install
 
So I measured the gear at 24.77mm and I give this info to mikes. They sent me an email back stating I infact need the gear they sent me(ya no joke) that I need to check the shaft for burrs! Wth. No worries though I have a friend that is taking care of it today for me I should have my gear back tonight and ready for install

Just to verify: Its never their fault...right.....Is that the general idea Im getting here.
 
^^ yea don't u know we are a bunch of morons? Lol stuiped bastards we should all ride to Florida, maybe get some of my money back :laugh:

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