Btw, how the heck does OldSchoolCarbs get those carbs to look like that? Jeeze, they look like motorcycle jewelry!
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My 60th birthday present
- Thread starter Mailman
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- 1977 xs 650d chain and sprockets clutch pushrod seal cranckcase seal new front master cylinder pamco e-advance pamco ultimate high output ignition rebuild brake caliper rebuild brakes rebuilt carburetors replace clutch solid state rectifier stainless steel braid front brake line starter gear fix steering head bearings vr-115 regulator
DanielBlack
XS650 Junkie
Thanks for the suggestion, 5twins, for the type E cam chain adjuster. That's on my wish list.
Pete, I'm not sure what type the 76 runs, but the d type adjuster (not to be confused with the 1977 model D bike) is the only one not to have a locknut. So, you get your cam tension perfect, then hope it doesn't move when you put the acorn on. Does your adjuster have a locknut? If so, it's not a D, or it's a Frankenstein.
Pete, I'm not sure what type the 76 runs, but the d type adjuster (not to be confused with the 1977 model D bike) is the only one not to have a locknut. So, you get your cam tension perfect, then hope it doesn't move when you put the acorn on. Does your adjuster have a locknut? If so, it's not a D, or it's a Frankenstein.
Mine does have a locknut - but my bike is a '76.
Info on the cam chain adjuster assemblies, see posts 22 and 23 here .....
http://www.xs650.com/threads/cam-chain-tensioners.1056/page-2
Pete, '76 would have been the 1st year for the type D assembly. It was implemented by Yamaha along with the 1st linked carb set. The previous type C adjuster was too large and would have interfered with mounting the new carb "bank".
http://www.xs650.com/threads/cam-chain-tensioners.1056/page-2
Pete, '76 would have been the 1st year for the type D assembly. It was implemented by Yamaha along with the 1st linked carb set. The previous type C adjuster was too large and would have interfered with mounting the new carb "bank".
One thing I noticed in your carb pic is the float needles with the little retaining wire on them. Stock ones weren't like that. That was a BS34 viton tipped needle thing. So, your float needles are most likely replacements, and maybe not correctly fitting ones at that. Supposedly there are some viton rubber tipped needles out there that you can swap into the BS38s but I've never tried them.
Great info 5T -thanks. I still have to ask - will a type E simply bolt onto my '76 engine?
Pete
Yes, it will, but there's no need to go through all that. All you need to do is swap the plungers and add the lock nut. All the other parts are the same on the type D and E assemblies (housing, spring, acorn cover nut, adjusting screw). To change the type D to a type E, all Yamaha did was install a longer plunger. The longer plunger lets the adjusting screw stick out the back of the housing more and that provides the extra needed room on the screw for the lock nut.
But you say you have a lock nut already. If so, then maybe someone updated your assembly already. Got a pic of it? You should probably check your plunger too. To do the upgrade, you need to add the lock nut AND change the plunger. Many changes have been made to these bikes over the years by P.O.s and not always correctly.
But you say you have a lock nut already. If so, then maybe someone updated your assembly already. Got a pic of it? You should probably check your plunger too. To do the upgrade, you need to add the lock nut AND change the plunger. Many changes have been made to these bikes over the years by P.O.s and not always correctly.
So you think I may have the wrong needles in my carbs? If I pull those out and they have rubber tips, they are the wrong needles?
All the rebuild kits I've seen sell the needles separately.
Hey, also until I've got enough discretionary cash to upgrade my ignition to a Pamco, is there any cheap way to get a little hotter spark? Like some kind of coil swap?
I'm trying to decide, since I've already got the tank, the battery, the carbs and airbox off, if I should go ahead and pull the motor and change that head gasket. I'm just afraid of opening a can of worms and you know one repair leads to another one and another one and I really do need to recharge my bank acct.
I'm trying to decide, since I've already got the tank, the battery, the carbs and airbox off, if I should go ahead and pull the motor and change that head gasket. I'm just afraid of opening a can of worms and you know one repair leads to another one and another one and I really do need to recharge my bank acct.
By needle I meant the float needle, not the slide needle. I'm going to caution you against buying carb rebuild kits. They are aftermarket so the quality is sometimes low, and the included jet sizes often don't match what you need. In particular, this is true for most of the '76-'77 carb rebuild kits out there. They have the wrong jets in them. They have the sizes for the next carb model, the '78-'79 set. About the only thing of any use in the rebuild kits is the gaskets but you usually don't even need to replace those unless you've broken one. They do usually include a float needle and seat assembly but they are often bad and leak right out of the box. When it comes to float needle and seat assemblies, it's best to buy originals from Yamaha. They're not that expensive and will probably last longer than you own the bike. I still have the originals in my '78 and they still work fine.
So, it's best to just get carb parts, like an odd gasket here or there, individually as needed. If you need new jets, get genuine Mikuni replacements. Four packs are only $10 to $12 from the big on-line places like Bike Bandit (get together with DB and split them).
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-168-14190-20-00.html
So, it's best to just get carb parts, like an odd gasket here or there, individually as needed. If you need new jets, get genuine Mikuni replacements. Four packs are only $10 to $12 from the big on-line places like Bike Bandit (get together with DB and split them).
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-168-14190-20-00.html
Don't tear the motor down yet, lol. Many times a leaky head gasket can be fixed with just a head bolt re-torque. Do that and see if it works. Use about 30 ft/lbs on the 8 large acorn nuts (1-8) instead of the 26 or 27 pound spec. Use the factory spec values for all the other smaller bolts. Don't forget the bolts under the spark plugs (9 & 10), they're part of the head gasket sealing pattern, also the little M6 bolt (11) at the rear. The four 8mm bolts on top of the head (12-15) are not. They only hold the top cover on the head and don't have any effect on the head gasket. You can check them too but they usually don't loosen up.
Awsome! I will give that a try, thanks!
I was just reading a post of yours from 5 years ago regarding correct jet sizing for my bike. I really can't believe nobody offers a kit with the right jets in it.
I was just reading a post of yours from 5 years ago regarding correct jet sizing for my bike. I really can't believe nobody offers a kit with the right jets in it.
They've been making and selling them like this with the wrong jet sizes for years. I don't know why. Maybe not enough people have complained?
The '76-'77 carbs are a wonderful set, some say the best of the 38s. They have large needle jets which give great midrange performance, and even though the mains are quite small (122.5), that doesn't seem to hinder the top end performance at all. But, if you start modding things, you will quickly out-pace those small mains. I don't know if your airbox K&Ns will have this effect. Eventually you may want to try a size up on the mains to see if it's an improvement.
The '76-'77 carbs are a wonderful set, some say the best of the 38s. They have large needle jets which give great midrange performance, and even though the mains are quite small (122.5), that doesn't seem to hinder the top end performance at all. But, if you start modding things, you will quickly out-pace those small mains. I don't know if your airbox K&Ns will have this effect. Eventually you may want to try a size up on the mains to see if it's an improvement.
I'm on EBay right now looking for those 122.5 and having trouble finding them.
( Never mind, just needed to look elsewhere)
( Never mind, just needed to look elsewhere)
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DanielBlack
XS650 Junkie
I'm in for splitting some 4 packs. I have stock size, but would be interested in the next size up or two.
Hmmmm - interesting points. I will try to snap a photo once it warms up here sufficiently to get out to the garage.
Cheers and thanks!
Pete
PS - the notion of splitting a pack of jets with a colleague is a great idea. Afterall, each of us only needs two...per bike....
machinedock
XS650 New Member
congratualtions........
Ok, that makes sense. The underside of my tang looks graunched, PO must've hit it on a curb or something and bent it.
Thanks
Thanks
Ebay is fickle; I had to use a few different search terms to find the sump, element and filter gaskets for my 77. However, I managed to get them all for just over $15. Don't be afraid to make an offer. One guy was selling for $5 + $5 for shipping. I offered $1 and he sold it to me.
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