That's an excellent deal. I guess that really confirms the importance of having a way to find the original Yamaha part numbers.
 
5twins.....................you are so good at finding goodies. I'm tempted to buy those, but I just checked my inventory, and I have 5 sump gaskets on hand.
They look like they are cork.....................so no leakage from those gaskets!
 
I am planning on replacing my clutch cable and I was looking at the EZ Pull cable on 650central. They claim to have some kind of mechanical advantage I don't understand, but would like to, and also I'm assuming they still need to be lubed right?
I know some cables come with teflon linings and they tell you not to lube them.
 
I don't understand 3M's reasoning behind his EZ Pull cable either. I think he says the inner cable or wire is a little longer than on a stock cable, and that puts the cable arm on the worm at a better angle to the cable. In my experience, that's just not true. A longer inner cable simply means more freeplay that needs to be adjusted out is all. By the time you do that, the cable arm ends up right where it was with a properly adjusted stock cable. The down side is your cable adjuster at the perch is screwed nearly all the way out now. The adjuster screw down on the worm will only do so much. Any cable play that's left after that has to be dealt with up at the perch adjuster, and there's more to deal with on the EZ Pull cable. This cable may have an easier pull because it has no metal elbow at the bottom, but that's probably it's only benefit. Like I said, I don't think it's longer inner length changes anything as far as the mechanical advantage between the arm and cable goes.

Now, I've never tried the EZ Pull cable, but I did have to deal with extra inner cable length when I swapped on a Kawasaki clutch lever and perch assembly. The distance between the cable anchor point in the lever and the perch adjuster is less on the Kawasaki assembly. This added extra length to the inner cable .....

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As I said, the worm adjuster screw will only do so much, so I ended up with the perch adjuster way out. I didn't like that. But as you can see above, it's not like that now. I fixed it by shimming the extra out using a spacer down at the elbow. I made the spacer from the bottom of an elbow off an old broken clutch cable .....

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Well I went on an ordering spree last night, for now just getting essentials to get her up and running.
Rebuild kits for the carbs and petcocks along with the correct sized jets. Points , plugs, alternator brushes, all new fuel lines and fuel filters, new mirrors ( the ones on it were crap), new grips ( old ones were torn), and I will source a battery locally. Should all be here in 10-14 days, in the mean time, there's lots to be cleaned up and adjusted and I will be re torquing the head to see if I can stop or at least minimize the head gasket leak. The fun is just beginning!
Happy Thanksgiving to everyone in the States and to everyone else, happy Thursday! Haha!
 
Sounds great Mailman - it will feel great to have ol' gal thumping away! I order stuff online too and amazingly, if I order before about 2:00 pm, the box is on my front porch the next day at 9:30 AM.

Have fun!

Pete
 
Today I pulled the carburetors apart for cleaning and rebuilding. I'm pleased to note that all of the jetting was spot on factory original. The float needle however, as noted by 5Twins is a rubber tipped, no ID marked needle. Also the butterfly shaft seals were crunchy so I ordered new ones, and the needle jets ( which are all correct ) have shot o-rings, so I ordered those also. One more thing , one of my air mix screws has a slightly bent tip ( almost unnoticeable, but there.) I'm thinking these carbs had to be sucking a lot of air from places that they shouldn't have.
Hopefully these little details will reap some rewards.
 
I bought butterfly seals from Mikesxs once, but they only remained air tight for one season, before squealing started. A lot of their rubber parts are poor quality and just don't last. I then bought genuine OEM Yamaha seals, part# 256-14997-00-00. That was 6 years ago, and they remain air tight. I suspect the seals are still available, as they were used on other Yamaha models right into the 2000's.
 
Yes, you can still get the originals and it's best that you do so.

If the rubber tipped needles fit properly, then they may work very well. Your leaks could have been from sitting and varnish build-up.
 
Further to RGents point, if you go on a site called Parts Fish (www.partsfish.com) you can search for any part on any bike and when you pull it up, just right-click on the part number and it will generate a list of all the other bikes, including which years, used that very same part.

Thus, when you are standing in front of the parts counter asking for that little seal (P/N 256-14997-00-00) for a 1976 XS650C.... and the pimply faced kid says that "Sorry Gramps, we don't carry anything that old" - you can say, OK then sonny, please check under: 1994-99 FZR600, 2006 Virago 250, 2015 VStar 250 or even the brand new 2017 XV250.

There are simply dozens of newer bikes which used that part and many others on the ol' XS which makes this an incredibly powerful tool for restorers. You'll be amazed at how many parts of our old bikes are still current parts used on new production machines. That is particularly true for "consumables" such as o-rings and seals, bearings, fasteners and even some wiring and electrical components.

Pete
 
Two of my favs are the replacement rubbers for the shift lever and kicker. They are wonderful parts, well made, and dirt cheap.
 
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Today I cleaned both carbs and both petcocks and then just loosely reassembled them while I'm waiting for replacement parts to arrive. They were super grungy. I wish I had one of those sonic cleaners. They just got the old B-12 Chemtool treatment.
 
Well today I re torqued the heads to try and stop a head gasket leak, we shall see.
Then I pulled the clutch side cover off for a look see. And down the rabbit hole I go. What a mess! Oil everywhere. After cleaning for a couple hours I can finally see the clutch pushrod seal is shot. You can wiggle the rod around within the seal and clearly see a gap. I have to research how to change this. I was also missing a bolt on my gear case cover. I was worried the hole was stripped and that was why the bolt was missing , so I removed another bolt and tried it in the missing bolt hole and it snugged right up, so dodged a bullet there.
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Ooooh - that was yucky - but nice and clean now! Apparently, nearly every XS650 has a leaking clutch pushrod seal. I think mine is weaping a bit - and I bought a spare which someday, I will install.

Pete
 
OK - now let me ask you Gent - have you ever done that job?

I read the note and understand it just fine - and I have all the necessary tools etc. but it looks dodgy to me and if you muff it, you're stuck with splitting the cases to get the old parts out the new ones in.

Frankly, a little spot of oil on the floor seems a small price to pay....
 
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