My '80 xs650 engine rebuild

my luck seems to be weirdly going in the wrong direction. I backed my wife's Virago out of the garage and into the side of the house. House ok. Virago needs a new brake light lens :doh: Then, while torquing the cylinder cover bolts down to the CORRECT amount:

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:wtf: I just used a bolt from the starter pieces that seemed to be the same, and I'll go get another one when I'm in a better mood.

Ok, now for the good stuff:

Timing mark in the alternator:

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Getting timing set up correctly (I need to patent my zip-tie cam-chain holder-inator!):

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Rivited cam chain:

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I cycled the engine a few times using the alternator bolt and it was pretty encouraging that a) it turns and b) I could hear the air burping out of the cylinders as the pistons go up and down.

I want to clean up the top bolts before I put them on (after running them of course) but man, then it's just that and some little pieces! I keep thinking I'd like to start it up in the stand but I don't have any of the electronics to make it go (like the ignition stuff) so I'm afraid it'll be in the bike before I get to do that. I've seen Hugh start engines on stands. I'll go back and see what he's done to make that go.
 
Sseres, since you've broken three bolts, there are a couple of things you should do, now and in the future: I make it part of my routine to 'chase' all threads with an appropriately sized thread tap, and all bolts and studs with a thread die. Even cleaning an engine, and especially if sand or bead blasted, hardened grunge can remain embedded in the thread grooves. The thread tap won't cut any metal, it will just cut through the crud. Following up with a brake clean rinse (or some other non-oily cleaner if you plan to paint), and then applying a light oil - or Locktight as appropriate, will lubricate the threads for smooth tightening.

I'd also strongly recommend a new, good quality torque wrench set (high and low torque wrenches). If you already have a Snap-on or Craftsman, you can send it in for testing and re-calibration, or they might even replace it. Also pick up a good metric tap & die set (and an American std one) if you don't already have them. I consider them an essential tool.

I once snapped a bolt flush with the block on a 4-bolt main truck engine, below the specified torque. It took me two days to remove it. I turned right around and snapped an intake manifold bolt, so I knew something was screwy. It turned out that my bargain torque wrench was more than 20 lbs off!

On automotive engines, after chasing all threads, I use only a coat of light oil. On aluminum engines, I never use Locktight, but instead use anti-seize compound (high-temp compound on air-cooled engine head bolts and exhaust studs. However, if Locktight is recommended by the factory, then use it.

Sorry you ran into these hassles, but you're being a good sport, and doing a good and conscientious job!
 
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Wow... much appreciated! The thing that comes to mind about my bargain torquer is that these are 30 year old bolts and that's why they broke. but yeah... I guess I wouldn't know if my bargain torquer is bargain or not.

It's actually been quite amusing... me out in the garage alone, trying to manhandle this thing, thinking I'm all suave and smooth and talented, then SNAP! It's been a very good exercise in not loosing my cool, so if I've learned how to do that, all the better.

There really aren't any more big bolts left but I do have to torque the head covers on next. Man it will be a disaster if one of the central shafts break.
 
+1 on the bargain torque wrenches. I bought two from Harbor Freight, they are both in the county landfill now. Spend the cash and get some good wrenches. I went with Craftsman as it was easy to get local, Im happy with it. I snapped 2 cam cover bolts off in my Harley. I clamped the HF torque wrench in my vise , I put it at several different settings, IT NEVER WOULD CLICK! Trying to save $50 on a wrench, could have cost me an arm and a leg.

Side note, you're doing a hell of a job. Keep it up!
 
I had a great afternoon block of time to work in the garage today. It was a very pleasant day, too, so I wasn't sweating to death either.

Many thanks to member Ironhead from NY who sent me a clutch boss to replace the one I glertched last week. It arrived today:

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All torqued and ready for action:

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Got the top on!

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I do have the updated valve adjuster bolts from Mikes on as well.

So, I started looking around for things to do before I tackle polishing all the bits and bobs and covers. I cycled the engine a zillion times to hear the air burping out the spark plug holes. I thought it might be fun to see what my compression valve would say, but with it plugging the spark plug hole, I wasn't strong enough to turn the crank in the compression stroke!! :thumbsup:

Thought I'd put the sump together:

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cleaned up the starter guts:

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I reinstalled the oil pump into the right side cover and the tach mechanism goes on top. There's a really small key that goes on the shaft that I circled here:

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I've been thinking about it and am not really sure how to fire it up off the bike because I don't have any way to fire sparks. I guess it's time to get the HF 1 ton hoist I've been looking at for $49. Just cleaned chain tentioner so that goes on next.

Now to wax introspective:

It's probably inexperience and something I could be more careful about, but I find it really hard not to touch the parts of the engine that are meant to be seen when I'm done. It's just a blasted finish with a fine coat of clear engine coat that they sprayed on for me at the machine shop to prevent finger prints. However, it gets dissolved by solvent (like brake clean). I didn't price out what it would have cost to clear powdercoat but am now questioning if that should be what i do next time.

I also, in a moment of probably having had some beer or something, ordered an xs650 crank from someone off ebay for $30. I was toying with just sending it to Hugh in the same box now in anticipation of my next motor. That way I'm not waiting for it when I get ready to put it together. I know it's worth it, but $350 is a chunk of change (and then $100 for rephasing the cam shaft and $300 for the Pamco kit w/advance )

What's left? Polish covers, but they're not needed to fire it up. I don't have the starter in, but that's just 4 bolts.
 
not a ton of time in the garage today, but I did get out there. Today I was wondering if you can mirror-polish the tappet covers. Apparently, the answer is: YES!

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One thing that's not in any maintenance book I have is about what it takes to reinstall the drive chain guide that lives on the left sided shift rod and protects wires from being chomped. Note that you have to take OFF the top middle starter box bolt, and loosen the nut on the crank to get it to sit correctly:

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Note I'm missing some of the bolts to the starter gear cover and had to borrow a couple from somewhere until I can get to Winks Hardware and restock. I think these small bolts get really hot and are just brittle after 30 years of use and all came out looking mangled.
 
What kind of washers are you using under the large acorn nuts on the top cover? Outer 4 should be copper or brass because those studs flow oil.
 
What kind of washers are you using under the large acorn nuts on the top cover? Outer 4 should be copper or brass because those studs flow oil.

for lack of anything better but what I thought I remembered, I put NEW rubber washers I got from Mikes on the 4 outside bolts. Do you see any problem with just loosening 1 outer and 1 inner acorn nut at a time to trade them out then retorque them down?
 
No problem replacing them one at a time but why would you even loosen an inner?
 
Yes it is like the OEM washer. The OEM rubber/steel washers have been known to be a problem. They lose torque for whatever reason and require retorquing. You can tell when it is time to retorque because an oil seep starts.
So the brass or copper washers have been used as replacements.
Holding the oil and torque.
 
Hey can you share the info for the guy you had your engine bead blasted?

The Napa Auto Parts just down the street from here has a machine shop in the back. The two guys who run it are totally engine whisperers. They recommended the cleaning process, did the valves and oversize boring. Couldn't recommend them more highly if you were here in Portland. Shop is across fromGrand Central Bowl on SE 9th.
 
haven't had a ton of time our in the garage lately, but here she sits with the right side cover on and a few quarts of oil in! Finishing the left side this weekend although I don't need that to fire it up. Since I'll be putting this in my working bike, I kind of want to wait for the weather to get bad before I get it in.

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got my hoist set up! I've been watching I AM CARBON's video with the same kind of hoist but cannot for the life of me tell how the heck he attaches the hoist to the top of the engine.

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