My Adventures in Clutch

sseres

XS650 Junkie
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after a lot of :banghead: with clutch that either grabs too much at idle, slips at RPMs, can't find neutral, and is harder to pull than something that's really hard to pull, I decided to do the HHB hydraulic upgrade: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18236

Thing is, it works fine, but I really didn't like the look of the lever it comes with. Actually, I tried a bunch of things to make that better. But I'm no machinist and the outcome was nothing I wanted to show off.

Then, I rebuilt and traded out my engine and moved the hydraulic clutch over and still really didn't like the lever. So I started reading about the cable and lever they have at 650central.com. As many of you know, they are beyond helpful (not that Hugh isn't) but we talked about a couple of upgrades that might help, including a 1 piece pushrod.

That brings us up to date. I know it's not THAT cold here, but it's kind of hard to do work in the unheated garage when it's 30F, and this was the only day I'm going to have for awhile to get things going.

Here are the pieces from the original push set up. I'm happy to sell it to anyone who needs this stuff. I'm reasonable so just PM me.
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Looked ok.

The real problem is that I messed up the dang push rod seal, even though I put a nice shiny new one when I had the engine apart. :doh:
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However, after trading out the parts, which involved draining the oil, getting the left side cover off, and taking out the clutch springs and plates, (and listening to my dang Seahawks lose at the last 30 seconds after a HUGE 4th quarter), I had to call it quits and will go back to replace that little guy next week. I have a gasket puller that should make the job easier. Not sure if I have to drain the crank AGAIN to take that booger out and change it.

I also learned something cool about why they went to the multi-rod solution and it has to do with this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=BVoejOo3n2M

. You can imagine that if there were more separate pieces in there, the end through the clutch seal wouldn't spin. It was shocking how much the multi piece rod set up wiggled in there, compared to the single rod "upgrade" I put in today.

So, the benefit of the 650central.com system relies on a slightly longer clutch cable. This is what the worm looks like with the stock set up (minus grease on the ball bearing):

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They told me, as many have mentioned in our forum, that you have to add some strength to the spring (even though my understanding was that this spring does diddly, since the pressure of the clutch springs themselves force the push rod, thus the worm, as far back as it will go). I did this to shorten it:

Stock:
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Shortened:
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Shortened and installed:
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Here it is installed:
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Now I'll wait for my hands to warm up and tackle replacement of the gasket another day. Lots in the forum about doing it. I have my round file ready, but I still need some gasket sealer. I wish wish wish there was something easier that could be done to stop this leak.
 
Well, that's an interesting theory about why they went to the two-piece push rod. I always thought it was to better deal with heat and expansion. One of the two-piece push rods is steel, and the other is aluminum. I can tell you that from my experience, the two-piece system expands in sync with the engine as both warm up. This means that the clutch stays adjusted. With the one-piece rod, I always have to fiddle with the cable adjuster at the lever to keep the clutch adjusted as everything warms up. This, I believe, is why they made that adjuster so big -- you can adjust it on the fly, even with gloves on.
So, anyways, I think the two-piece system is superior. The downside is that it puts more wear on the clutch push rod bushing, but that's pretty easy to replace.

You say you were shocked at how much the two-piece rod wiggled -- maybe you need to replace that bushing.

You do not have to drain the oil to replace either the bushing or the seal.
 
37 degrees, in the grarage. But I have daylight to spare so I thought I'd go knock out the gasket change. Gasket puller made fast work of it. I really don't see any obvious damage to it to explain leaking, but it's out so there we are.

Smoothed the edges with a small round file then some 220 grit. Cleaned it out with brakeclean. Painted on sealer and got the new one in. I used the smaller end of the socket I have for my spark plugs and a rubber mallet to get it in because I couldn't seem to get it much more than started with my fingers. I got it flush then stopped.

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In the upper left part of the picture there seemed to be a little bit of damage to the outer part of the gasket so I guess I'll see if I'm leaking there when I get everything back together.

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I'll let the gasket seal dry for a few days before I get out to the garage again before I get to test my handywork. At least I have 2 more gaskets I can try if this one got mangled.
 
Next time you're in the cold, heat the seal up first, it will go in a lot easier.

I have replaced plenty of this particular seal, and I have never been able to do it with just my fingers like all the write-ups say. I use a trick from xsleo -- I use a stubby screwdriver with a shaft that is almost the same size of the push rod -- this keeps the seal almost perfectly straight while you tap it in. I had to modify the screwdriver by grinding down one side of the handle to clear the engine case, and I put a washer on the shaft to get full contact with the seal.

Even with all of this, and a properly chamfered edge (chamfer tool), I almost always shear part of the tiny lip that protrudes around the side, but they never leak. Your damage looks worse, maybe you will be lucky.
 
Yay! No leaks!

But it's still not all the way right. I'm still having a hard time finding the right adjustment between stalling when shifting into gear and slipping when revving. My friction zone seems very limited to the very last bit of letting off the clutch. Erg.
 
That pretty much is how it works. The friction zone of the clutch is very narrow. Less than 3/4 inch of lever travel. Often closer to 1/2 inch. And to get full releases you need the friction zone out at the end of the lever travel. On my 75 I have it adjusted with just 1/8 turn out on the worm screw, and about 1/8 inch freeplay at the lever.
With a well greased worm, and well oiled cable even with the 70 lb clutch springs I can still pull the lever with two fingers.
Leo
 
I feel like I've done all the "right things" when it comes to this, and I think my thinking about it might be getting clouded by a little bit of frustration. I'm not having a hard-to-pull problem anymore. I just feel that I'm missing something stupid when it comes to adjusting. I did ride into work this morning (first time in months!) but had to be careful about finding neutral before coming to a stop.

It's hard not to wonder if somehow somewhere I forgot something when I put it back together, but I can't imagine what...
 
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