My engine rebuild from scratch!!

Airwolfie

Airwolfie

XS650 Guru
Messages
2,023
Reaction score
70
Points
48
Location
United Kingdom
So i decided to put my build thread together in one so it's easier to find.

I'm in no way an expert in building engines, in fact, this is my first ever build! So don't take this as how it should be done, but rather use this as a guide to help you build your engine. DO use manuals wherever you can,as that is what I am doing. I'm just doing this for first time builders to make a bit more sense of things, as a lot of build thread omit some stages and don't have a lot of pictures. Iwill try to document EVERYTHING I do, bu tI still may miss some stages. I have already rebuilt my rocker cover and valve cover, these are easy and straightforward, and there are tons of videos on youtube to help out on these if you struggle.

These sites were my favourite read for the build:

http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xs650sh-1981_model8827/partslist/

http://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/04/26/xs650-xs650sj-service-manual/

I also keep scanning this forum and others to get more tips and info.

Also my bits came yesterday so HOPEFULLY I will be able to finish this off this weekend. I hope this helps you guys if at all!!

Here goes!

So today I decided to start my engine rebuild!!!

I started with the shifter forks. I decided to try the upside down build like in the "german build log", sounded plausible with getting the forks and gears aligned. Turns out it's not that easy and straightforward! More on that later.

I first put the selector fork shaft in, (plug side on the outside!!) after first dipping it in a tub of oil to lubricate and fill the inside. One by one the forks were put in(hopefully the right way, let me know if they not!!). EDIT!!! Make sure the notch is over the Locating plate!! I didn't do this and resulted in having to take the right side apart again!!

Pic of the notch

View attachment 36948


And how it SHOULD look like when done...

View attachment 36923

This is thanks to YL76 who spotted this mistake, and could have spelled DISASTER!! Pics are also off him later in this thread! Thanks YL!!!!

Next came the gear selector drum.I covered it with a bit of oil, then I made sure the neutral indent is facing up(or in my case down, but to the top!), and then I carefully slid it all the way through the forks into the roller bearing at the back.

Next and finally, the cam follower pins went into their respective holes, making sure the roller side is going in first, and then the split pin goes through the hole above the pins, and bent over to hold them in.

Pics of the above so far....

9685611729_a7a81a4be9_b.jpg


9688848438_f288641b75_b.jpg


The stopper assembly and locating plate need to go on next to prevent the selector drum and shaft from falling out, it also gives the "notch for selecting gears!!(you will know what I mean when you put this together!) Make sure the disc AND the locating plate go into the groove, took me about 30 minutes to figure that one out!!
I found it's quite easy to place the stopper assembly in first, with the spring attached to it, then screw the bolt in a bit to hold it in it's place, and then hook the locating plate to the spring, push it into the groove, and add the nuts to tighten it down. Bend over the locking plate( I haven't yet!) and you are done with that!

Check to see if the forks move by rotating the star shaped plate on the side.

9688844816_514f6901f1_b.jpg


Next are the gears.

First, make sure the circlip is in position before you place the lot in!

9688846562_c4c4e8deec_b.jpg


Then the respective oil seals go on the ends.......

9688842984_38b3e71106_b.jpg


9685603143_bea5c70450_b.jpg


Then it's just a matter of aligning the forks with the gears so they fall into place.....

9689080142_1a961be875_b.jpg


9685840283_7853703383_b.jpg


9685838431_8cedd3a827_b.jpg


Before you go any further, make sure the forks move freely and the gears rotate without any thing catching.( Very satisfying thing to do!!)

And then comes the crank shaft. Wait, not yet. I don't have the shims that go between the crank and journal ballbearing!!!! :banghead::banghead::mad::mad: AAAARRGGH!!!!
So now my anxious build up to building the engine is on hold!! I don't know why I didn't check that before!!!! SO I just chucked everything in the shed and locked it, that's me f
 
Right, so the oil pump I had had a nice little crack in it, so I had to replace it.

When installing this lovely piece of engineering, you need to make sure the inside of the housing is CLEAN. ANY dirt and it won't fit or damage the pump. Make sure the little arrows line up when inserting them into the housing. It's easier to just pop it in the pump and rotate until the arrow line up.
I gave the lot a small coating of oil to ease assembly, and I also made sure it all spun easily by hand.

Don't forget the pin in the star, and also look for the little woodruff key that goes in the shaft.

A pic to show what I mean

9693745923_b37c4a1329_b.jpg


Next comes the big gear. It has a recess on one side, this faces down(well it did when I disassembled this lot!). Put that over the shaft, then place the woodruff key in the recess of the shaft and sprocket, makes it a bit easier to fit. A little grease or oil on it will help holding it in position.

9696972636_984959d28b_b.jpg


The wormgear is next. It also has a groove cut out so this goes to the side the key is at.

9696970880_95478ed705_b.jpg


Then the spring washer and nut go on top of this. Tighten it good, you don't want this coming undone!!

9693741565_059f011f45_b.jpg


9693739785_303b148720_b.jpg


My Tacho drive has been blocked off so I don't have the rest of the parts for the tacho drive.


Next was the oil filter on the side mount. Pretty straightforward. Make sure all fitting surfaces are clean. Insert gasket.

9696965746_5de357fd94_b.jpg


Put the filter in the hole, Make sure the side with the bigger hole is to the bottom.

Find the big bolt with a waist and a hole in it.

9693736561_4f14d23305_b.jpg


At the top, it has a spring and a ballbearing and a grommet/screw over them to hold it all in place. Mine was assembled, so I decided not to fiddle with it!

9693734895_c31036b2d2_b.jpg


Put the bolt in the hole of the filter and tighten it down.

9693733213_d8a241145d_b.jpg


Place the gasket of the filter cap in its place.

9696959688_30b3ffbd14_b.jpg


Place filter cap over the top and tighten bolts down. (forgot to take a pic of that!!)

On to the sump filter. I decided as mine needed replacing, I went with Heiden's upgraded version. Seems pretty sturdy and solid, and the mesh doesn't seem as fragile as the Yamaha version. It also comes with three allen hex bolts.

Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and grease free. Install filter, two bolts go through the round bit, and a third one has a rubber sleeve, goes at the end.

9693730351_063968f025_b.jpg


9693728625_5d45a9f0bf_b.jpg


Again clean the mating surfaces on the main engine shell, degrease, ready for assembly.

9693726973_129572c19a_b.jpg


I lightly greased the gasket to ease removal when it comes to clean the filter, I read that somewhere.

Place the cover over the hole, and tighten bolts(new bolts from Heiden on mine!) I started on the inside, cris crossing outwards as I tightened each bolt.

9693725283_0f8a74167a_b.jpg


That's all I got done tonight. Oh I think I may have found my neutral detent spring...............

9696951196_b1cd7357f3_b.jpg


Anyone know where I can get one???
 
So this afternoon I installed the neutral indent plug thingymajob, and it WORKS!! I CAN FIND NEUTRAL!!! So pleased! At first I couldn't, and I thought I had to undo all of my efforts, but after tinkering a bit, I managed to get it to work!

Anyway, the reason I didn't show you the oil filter cover, is because I was doing something different to it.........................

9701285325_fba04230ff_b.jpg


That's the Japanese symbol for Dragon. The Dragon, in both Japanese and Chinese culture, brings strength, luck and fortune, but should be respected because it would also be able to do fate the other way around! Pretty much sums up these bikes I think!!!
 
Didn't do a lot on the bike this weekend. Had a load of honey-do's to keep me busy.

Added a plug to the big gaping hole that is left after the starter motor is removed. Added a bit of liquid gasket seal around the rim of the hole, before taking my frustrations out on the plug with a hammer and the R1's fork shaft(worked a treat!) until it was flush with the outside. I have painted it black after the picture was taken!

9764607312_041e236061_b.jpg
 
Great thread - from a fellow UK XS650 owner ....... what part of the country you in ?

I noticed the "starter plug" - you say it's held in with liquid sealer.... do you reckon this will this be OK when the oil starts to boil ????? Just asking as a few people get squirmish with these bungs!

Keep up the good work lad :thumbsup:
 
Thanks pigford! It seals pretty tight, but I just added a bit of gasket seal just to be sure it seals off. Only time will tell if it will be OK!

I'm based it Tring, Hertfordshire.
 
like that sump filter! how much does heiden's want for that? looks loke it will never tear. looks simpler that yama" version.
neutral spring may lose tension eventually since it was all stretched out like that. keep an eye out for a new one.
 
Right were was I?

Oh yes, spending the day trying to fit the stupid crankshaft after fitting one too many shims behind the one bearing!!!

Anyway I managed to get it down.

What you need to do is place the crank in its position with the piston rods down going through the top(well bottom if you doing it upside down like me!), then look at the bearings, they have a little line going across them on the outside and sometimes down the side.

9857679695_8077336873_b.jpg


This line is the mark that needs to align with the mating surface of the case once they crank is in. This ensures the pins go into their corresponding holes and the oil feed holes can feed oil to the motor. Failing to do this will result in the halves not closing properly and the bearings not getting their oil feed.

But you won't be able to close the halves if they don't line up anyway!

I was holding onto either end and lifting the crank just a tad, starting on the left, I used my thumb to rotate the bearings until I felt them click in place and the line lined up with the top of the case. Keep spinning them until they lock into place and the crank should fall into place.

9862201816_8ae3f83d18_b.jpg


I tried to focus on the lines but my stupid camera didn't want to! You can kind of see them there.


Note if you have an endless camchain(one that is closed linked and not open ended), you need to put that over the sprocket in the middle before placing the crank.

So now you should have something like this.........

9862206615_d8702a761a_b.jpg


More in a bit......:thumbsup:
 
great write up well done. Once the cases are closed things seem to progress more smoothly you'll be pleased to hear.

don't know if its common practice or not but I smeared some yambond around all three oil seal housings before I fitted the seals and closed the cases. There is no way I am going to have a leak from around the oil seals lol.:laugh:
 
Thanks Peanut! Yeah I did the same after reading your thread! HOPEFULLY this engine will be nice and sealed! Got more to write up but I'm quite poopered now!

Thanks again for your support and help today!
 
Peanut, Did you have an endless cam chain? Did you separate it, or did you leave it as a whole?
I'm just wondering how one goes about installing the chain tensioner and the cam without splitting the chain, or is it inevitable??
 
Airwolfie, don't worry about splitting the chain, I have just fitted a cam chain, and then done another stripdown without splitting the chain.

Camshaft slides through chain - remember to remove the cam chain tensioner. The chain goes on the gog. Make sure the cam marker (the indent) points up at 12 o'clock. If you find it is a couple of degrees out, remove bearings and ripple the cam chain from back to front one or two teeth until all is in place, and put the bearings back.

Anlaf
 
Airwolfie, the springs should be replaced as a pair with the starwheel spring - these two work together to ensure neutral can be found, and there is no loss of gears (this comes from my translation of the German manual, which talks about these springs).

Anlaf
 
Thanks Anlaf, but how do you get it to go through the chain tensioner? If I remeber correctly, the chain goes through the middle and the other half goes on the outside if that makes any sense?
 
Airwolfie what You will have to do is split the cam chain tensioner at the mount.
Slip the chain in, then mount the tensioner back to the case. Don't forget the thread locker.
 

Similar threads

Paj
Gear crank cover
Replies
0
Views
191
Paj
Paj
B
Stage 1 of engine rebuild
Replies
5
Views
749
BarrieC
B
toglhot
Engine removal tool build.
Replies
0
Views
442
toglhot
toglhot
GLJ
Just another XS2
2
Replies
24
Views
1K
Mailman
Mailman
toglhot
Yamaha frame building.
Replies
2
Views
287
Max Midnight
Max Midnight
Back
Top