My fork caps

[Grimly]

I have a 79 Special, but the fork caps might be the earlier ones, with the recessed hex heads, about 17mm across. Only thing is, mine have another recessed hex head inside them, down the bottom of the hole, which is about 8mm or so.
I know the previously standard fork caps were replaced with 3-way adjustable ones from 78 onwards, which leaves mine as a bit of an oddity.
I know the PO did (or paid to have done) a lot of work on improving this bike, so now I'm wondering what, if anything, has been done to the forks.
They ride really well and have given me no cause to suspect they need a good looking at, and there's a decent fork brace been fitted long before I got it.
Does my description of these caps ring any bells with anyone, and does the internal, lower hex-head adjust pre-load?

 

[59Tebo]

I can't speak for the lower hex-head, whether or not it adjusts pre-load, but for the (17mm) upper one, I used an all-tread connector (of the proper size) as a "socket" and an combination wrench to turn it. A lot cheaper than a dedicated socket. I hope you can get your other answers...

 

[arcticXS]

That would be an M10 all thread connector (or long nut, coupler nut, etc) These mostly have a 17 mm hex. A short piece of an old 17 mm Allen Key is even better.

 

[Team Junk]

I have a vague memory of using a VW lug wrench.

 

[XSLeo]

I use a metric bolt with a 17 mm head. I slip on a flat washer or two, a lock washer then thread a nut on the bolt. Screw it down tight. put the head in the cap then turn it with 17 or 19, or whatever size fits the nut.
Leo

 

[gggGary]

Loosen the top triple tube clamp bolts BEFORE you attempt to unthread the caps. The clamping pressure really squeezes on the cap threads.
Let's see a pic of your caps Grimly!
Fork transplants have been popular for a long time......
Trivia; the caps from 34mm tubes interchange with caps from 35mm tubes, they have the same thread. Those shorter 34mm caps are useful when you have longer stiffer sportster springs in your 35mm forks.

 

[650Skull]

you need to identify if the bike is an import or the Made for Europe US Custom..............Euro standards, (from 80 at least and may include the 78-80 as well), and Japanese specials and standards with 35mm forks, come out with different internals to the US 35mm forks. inverted caps without preload adjustments with spacers instead.

Differences in this thread. http://www.xs650.com/threads/neutral-as-ignition-cut-off.53365/page-2#post-569324

.Although is seems to be Japanese specific its not. Go to thexscafe.com and download the manual for the 80-82 TX650-4E3. This has the semantic for these different forks.

Do a search on 3G5

 

[Grimly]

you need to identify if the bike is an import or the Made for Europe US Custom..............Euro standards, (from 80 at least and may include the 78-80 as well), and Japanese specials and standards with 35mm forks, come out with different internals to the US 35mm forks. inverted caps without preload adjustments with spacers instead.

Differences in this thread. http://www.xs650.com/threads/neutral-as-ignition-cut-off.53365/page-2#post-569324

.Although is seems to be Japanese specific its not. Go to thexscafe.com and download the manual for the 80-82 TX650-4E3. This has the semantic for these different forks.

Do a search on 3G5

This one here looks like it might be mine, although mine are Euro Specials with twin discs. Not sure whether Yamaha made any changes to the internals for the extra braking loads. Hard to tell, but that black cap seen there might have a recessed smaller hex at the bottom, although it looks like a plain cap.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-xs650-forks-install-lowering-kit.5537/page-5#post-569321

I'm not anywhere near stripping them yet, as they're working fine, but just wondered if the extra socket head down the bottom of the cap might be for a preload adjuster. Probably not, I suppose.

Given that one of the POs had spent a lot of money on various upgrades it crossed my mind this might be another one.

 

[gggGary]

mebbie.
The shape of a hex socket is formed by a process called broaching. This shaves metal off the walls of a round hole to form the hex. those shavings often end up crushed at the bottom of the hex and can give the appearance of a second smaller hex. "down there".