My $Free.99 Project

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

All of them, provided you're using the new versions with the "barb" instead of the lock ring, covered in 5twins' seals thread.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/engine-oil-seals.52383/

And there's Mailman's seal series.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-one-the-shifter-seal.52589/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-2-clutch-push-rod-seal.52590/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/engine-seal-replacement-part-3-crankshaft-seal-driveshaft-seal.52591/

 

[wannabridin]

Thank you 2M!! I missed these in my searches

 

[wannabridin]

In efforts to ensure electrical is up to snuff for the test fire, I'll be getting a "Chrome" Battery (came recommended by more than a few people here), using a VR-1010 regulator and then building a solid state rectifier (Thanks @pamcopete for the awesome instructions - http://xs650forum.proboards.com/thread/1818/solid-state-rectifier-on-cheap) since the one on the bike was trash. I might even have a little heat sink plate to use on the rectifier and maybe I can put the regulator on there too.

Going to order up a set of oil seals and swingarm bushings from Kenosha Kid, as his prices are the most fair.

I was hoping to reach out to the members here to see if anyone had any "spare" wheel bearing kits (front and rear), fork seals (@figure8 you asked me to remind you!) and swingarm bushings. I certainly don't mind buying new, but if I can save a few bucks and help a member clear off their shelves, I'd much prefer that!

 

[wannabridin]

Well good thing I inspected the "came off a perfectly running bike" carbs I bought on ebay a few years back! They certainly wern't awful, but they were far from what I'd consider "ready to run"!! Bent needle, missing/flattened o-rings, knicked float seats, broken carb body post.

There's a great user I met over on the ex-500 forums named Gordon (Ducatiman) - https://customcarbservices.com/ and https://www.ex-500.com/16-sale/45078-custom-carb-service.html. He sells a complete carb overhaul kit for $50 shipped, includes quality parts and everything needed to fully overhaul a set, so I'll be picking up one of those as well. It looks like the diaphragm was pinched outside of the groove, so I'll likely have to replace that since the seal isn't going to be good and I'll have to JB weld a small post back onto one of the carbs, as it was broken and it contains what looks like an air/vacuum passage. I've a place to fix it up nice, so that should help!

Oh well!!

 

[wannabridin]

Had to get the airbox purchased from a fellow member, $40

Carb rebuild parts, $50

Running total: $715.77


Carb diaphragm appears to seat in the groove properly, so I'm going to give it a shot. Fingers crossed!!

 

[wannabridin]

Sold the pipes to @Team Junk, thanks Jack!!

Running total: $615.77

 

[wannabridin]

PMA kit bought, thanks for the great deal @RockingThePartyDJ!!

Running total: $790.77

I now need to sell my solid state voltage regulator. It's a borg-warner VR1010. $20 shipped

 

[wannabridin]

Swingarm bushings, oil seals, clutch cable, fork seals, fuse block, battery, wheel bearings ordered.

Running total: $967.74

 

[Team Junk]

The pipes look great. So worth the drive. Going out to install them in a little while. Thanks Garret.

 

[wannabridin]

Got the holes center punched for the rear rotor, I copied the design of the floating rotor up front (quick a bitch of a job without any drafting abilities!!). But it'll match and look nice.

The pipes look great. So worth the drive. Going out to install them in a little while. Thanks Garret.

Glad they worked out, thank you for partially funding the rebuild! Make sure to post a vid so we can hear what they sound like, I was always curious

 

[wannabridin]

Well changed gears a skosh on the brakes - I think I'm going to leave the floating rotor for the bobber and put on the XS1100 rotor on this one. I ordered a rear XS1100 rotor, but learned that they do NOT have the same size rears as the 650's (information for the slotted rears was a bit inconclusive, so I need to do a little "figuring".

Oil seals and swingarm bushings came in from Germany, I got the old charging system removed, removed the stock swingarm (the axle was a ROYAL pain to drive out!) and a few other odds and ends. I received some AWESOME quality parts (rear fender, gauges, clutch lever, etc.) from @kawabunga (thanks again!) and sold the old voltage regulator (thanks @Mike G!). Also received the replacement airbox in GREAT shape (thanks @DB90!!). The gauges are in GREAT shape, so I won't need to do hardly anything for these, so that's exciting!

Bought and installed new wheel bearings, bough fork seals, fuse block and battery (a Chrome Battery 14AHl-BS) and a clutch cable. @figure8 has a fork tube for me, I just need to pay him for it. I've been working on cleaning the motor up some to get rid of all the dirt and grime and prep it to change all the seals (after I do compression checks, as I don't want to waste my time doing that if the engine needs further attention.

Need to figure out plug caps, coil and plug wire as well as order the Hondaman ignition. He recommended a 5 ohm coil to increase spark duration, so I've been searching for one of those (https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/5-oh...eM3VxXA0ST6AdZNSwWvE0SIJtn-0858xoCqqMQAvD_BwE). One question - what plug wires and plug caps should I use? Any advice?? I think I'll run some autolite #63 plugs, but I'm still not 100% certain on what to run.... I'll still have to rebuild the points plate and lube/inspect the advance mechanism.

Also need to order a 1 piece clutch rod, the clutch bearing upgrade parts, swingarm pivot tube w/ updated threads, master cylinder, and some other bits and pieces. Also need to rebuild the 750 swingarm and add in some appropriate zerks to the center stand, swingarm, etc per @5twins recommendations. Lots to do!! Bit first is getting it running!

So w/ the parts bought and sold recently:

Running total: $1212.75

 

[wannabridin]

Sold some parts and whatnot. Installed some PMA parts, cleaned the cases a bit, installed steering head bearings, painted battery tray, working on swingarm, adding zerks.

Still need to figure out plugs/wires/coil/caps, etc. Anyone have any recommendations?? I'm going to run a single 4.5 - 5 ohm, dual fire coil. I think I need to run non-suppression wires, then 5 Kohm caps? Or would it be better to run resistance spark plugs like the autolite 63's? I'm still a bit confused about all this thus far...

Running total: $972.75

 

[5twins]

What type of ignition, points or electronic? 4 to 5 ohm coils are used with points. Electronic ignitions usually require a lower ohm coil, like 2 to 3.

The rule of thumb for the coil to spark plug connection circuit is to have only one instance of resistance in it. That can be the wire, the cap, or the plug. I don't think suppression (resistor) wires are used much on bikes. So, that leaves the choice between the plug or the cap. I've always done the cap but it probably doesn't matter. I've never seen any mention of one being better than the other.

 

[wannabridin]

I'll be keeping the points and using a Hondaman "Transistorized" ignition. He recommends a longer duration spark, therefore a higher ohm coil.

That's a great explanation @5twins, thanks for clearing it up. I'll likely get some copper core wires and then some NGK caps, either the XD05F or the XB05F, any thoughts? (I do like how the red caps look, but I've only found those to be quite pricey!). Finally, what's the recommended non-resistor plug?

 

[5twins]

Most of us use a 90° cap, the LB05. The "05" in the part number denotes it has 5K ohms resistance. There are 2 versions available to fit either a spark plug terminal's stud or nut. I prefer the stud type, I think they grip better .....

The standard plug we use is the NGK BP7ES, stock number 1034. They are usually readily available at most auto parts stores. If they can't find it listed as the "BP7ES", have them look up the "1034" stock number. They're much cheaper (about $2 each) at the auto parts store than from a motorcycle shop .....

 

[wannabridin]

Again, you rock @5twins! Now I'm armed to move forward! I too prefer the stud type.

 

[wannabridin]

Plugs, caps, wires ordered.

Running total: 1003.38

 

[wannabridin]

Just had to saw/grind off one of the center stand bolts, spent the next hour tryng to free it and save the center stand to no avail, so it's heading to the scrap bin... Bummer!

Also, noticed the frame crossrails under the battery tray appeared worn down and I need to know if it's a concern or not. Anyone have a thought of it its fine??

 

[wannabridin]

So Daugherty Motorsports is going to see if a set of their emulators and springs will work in my forks. If they do, then everyone will have a separate option other than Racetech for a drastically improved front suspension.

I also found the smaller rear slotted rotor behind some storage boxes, so I'll be running the slotted rotors on this bike and the floating rotor on the bobber (the holes in the rotor match the holes in the wheels and will look better :-D

 

[wannabridin]

Frame repairs needed to the horizontal members under battery box, will weld up thing areas and grind back. Fixed the center stand issue, added zerks to the pivot holes tubes & center of swingarm. Decided to use a the slotted rotors.

NOS Daiichi points and NOS condenser ordered from ebay. Mikes for swingarm grease seals, brake rotor and sprocket lock tabs, clutch needle bearin & advancer spring. Also scored a Brembo adapter on ebay and some of the poly handlebar bushings as the bike had nothing useful when I got it (And it's always good to support members!). Picked up some valve cover brass washers and swingarm bushing install hardware.

Running total: $1221.03.