My mistress "the dirty screamer" build log

Well I was wondering if I actually need heat paint on the bottom end? I was thinking about painting it with regular paint or maybe brake caliper paint.

What head light do you guys like better?

The yellow $30.00 fog light? or the old clear lence with built in ignition and speedo?

also got some sweet inverted levers on order can wait to see them.
 

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I like the Ural style headlight on the right because that's what I have on my project. :thumbsup: Mine has the visor though. I paid $100 to get it shipped from Ukraine and $45 for shipping. It took 8 weeks to get here and I thought I might have been stiffed. Still trying to figure out what speedo I'm going to use in it.

uralheadlight.jpg


Is that headlight you posted from an Ural? Where did you find it?

One more thing if you do go with the headlight on the right. The bulb socket is not meant for a regular H4 halogen bulb but looks like it could be modified pretty easily to make it work.
 
As far as painting the engine, I think if you just use automotive paint through a sprayer with the hardeners and everything you shouldn't have any problems. I’m pretty sure you can get some high temp stuff.
 
I like the Ural style headlight on the right because that's what I have on my project. :thumbsup: Mine has the visor though. I paid $100 to get it shipped from Ukraine and $45 for shipping. It took 8 weeks to get here and I thought I might have been stiffed. Still trying to figure out what speedo I'm going to use in it.

uralheadlight.jpg


Is that headlight you posted from an Ural? Where did you find it?

One more thing if you do go with the headlight on the right. The bulb socket is not meant for a regular H4 halogen bulb but looks like it could be modified pretty easily to make it work.

Its from a cj750 and he is asking 100 for the headlight 75 for the speedo and 25 for the ignition with key. Sounds like a lot to me so im not sure yet.
 
As far as painting the engine, I think if you just use automotive paint through a sprayer with the hardeners and everything you shouldn't have any problems. I'm pretty sure you can get some high temp stuff.

I think I will try that out it sounds like a lot less work. Thanks Travis
 
As far as the headlight, maybe wait until the bike is a little more together so you can get a better idea of what headlight to use.
 
Hi guys, a quick update, finally got the engine back together late last night looks great. its not running yet still got to throw carbs on and install my new pamco pete ignition. Also have to find a good wiring diagram (any suggestions?)

Also got my inverted levers in, they look great but it turns out there was some confusion in the order. I ask him if they were 7/8s and he said yes. but they slide into the bar ends but the levers them selves are 7/8 so im guessing I now need 1" bars to make them work. Does anyone know if the inside diameter of a 1" handlebar is 7/8s? and does anyone know of a place where I can get 34mm clip-ons with 1" bars? they seem to be hard to find.

And lastly I was wondering if anyone knows how to change the name of this thread? "Another new guy" is kind of getting old hahaha. I have been using it as a build thread and im not really a new guy here anymore hahaha. thanks
 
- dont get phased by wiring - think of it as a blood reticulation system - its a closed circuit where every in has to have an out - if you dont complete the loop nothing will flow

- an earth connection to the frame simply completes the loop back to the negative side of the system
 
Good to know. So as far as wires go it would be nice to build a new harness, what guage wire should I use? and whats the cheapest way to do it? hahaha ya im cheap.
 
- i generally build the backbone of my wiring with 1 length of 7 ply trailer cable at 1.0mm, this allows power forward from the fuse box and back without having to create a spaghetti junction...to blinkers, taillight and stop light i splice in 2 ply x 0.75mm if im using a central earth or single ply x 0.75mm if im earthing at point of use...all is tidily bound and sealed-if you use black outer you never see it

- all connections are crimped, soldered and insulated spade connectors or blocks

- for major power carriers from alternator to rec-reg, condensor or battery and fuse box i use 1.5mm cable
 
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Thanks Inxs, thats excactly what i was looking for, Im out of town about a week but as soon as I get back I want to get this baby running.
 
What did you end up getting for inverted levers? For wiring, you can use 18 ga for most things like taillight, gauge lights, turn signals etc. You can use 18ga for the headlight too unless you're running a really high watt bulb.
 
- thats exactly what im talking about - 7 different coloured wires at 1.0mm thick each, bound together as 1 cable sheathed in black insulation - used here to wire trailers

- i use 1.5mm cable on the production side as 1.5mm complies with VDE DIN 0298 and handles 20A
 
What did you end up getting for inverted levers? For wiring, you can use 18 ga for most things like taillight, gauge lights, turn signals etc. You can use 18ga for the headlight too unless you're running a really high watt bulb.

I ended up finding a set off a chang jiang cj750. I think I paid $45 with shipping, there not the best quality and are going to require some machining to work proper (the action isnt very smooth so im going to mill out and put in teflon washers) and as I said they wont fit in a 7/8 bar, but they will be sweet looking once I am done.

heres a picture of a cj750 with the levers.
 

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