My rebuild journey. (old title: Future owner - Help me identify this 650.)

Working with the seller now. He might have one he can exchange.
If it's got a ratty old weather checked tire like this one does, have 'im dismount it.... prolly save at least 20 bucks in shipping.
 
Never cold figure why a seller would sell them with a shitty tyre left on!!!!.............just laziness i guess, .................like a bike seller who doesn't wash the bike before taking the pics that get put up for sale!!!!
 
Never cold figure why a seller would sell them with a shitty tyre left on!!!!.............just laziness i guess, .................like a bike seller who doesn't wash the bike before taking the pics that get put up for sale!!!!
I requested him to keep it on. Since I'm still working on it I wanted to be able to roll it around. Tires were gonna be my last purchase before I got it licensed and registered.
 
If you decide to remove the tire, it is doable with out much for tools. Break the beads loose by applying force. Cut the tires full circumference in the center of the tread to create two tires halves to deal with. Pull the tube out, and pry or cut, those halves off. Much easier than prying off a whole tire.
 
I just cut across, side to side using a grinder and tin snips for the last bit ............2 places if i have to...........after i break the bead
 
I just cut across, side to side using a grinder and tin snips for the last bit ............2 places if i have to...........after i break the bead
Yep iv used the side grinder approach to cut off semi tires on old semi wheels I referbeb for my old job.

I don't think I'll have any problems taking off tires and installing them when the time comes.
 
Get yourself some quality tire irons and you won't be needing to cut anything, lol. These are the best I've found .....

erRAgNK.jpg


https://www.kentool.com/
 
There are many tire iron offerings out there. eBay has tons. What you might consider is something like this one. You'll kill two birds with one stone .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27mm-Motor...rksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&autorefresh=true

The 27mm box wrench will fit your rear axle nut along with the engine drain plugs and the cam chain adjuster lock nut. If you want two, this pair with a 22mm and 27mm wrench would be good. The 22mm fits the front axle and the large acorn cap nut on the cam chain adjuster .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle...hDarwoV3BBEV2b&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
 
Get yourself some quality tire irons and you won't be needing to cut anything, lol. These are the best I've found .....

erRAgNK.jpg


https://www.kentool.com/

No disrespect 5T, but I can't see the sense in struggling to take off an old hard tyre with tyre irons when a grinder will do the job in 1/10th of the time with no effort. Time saved with the grinder means the new tyre is on and your away........
 
No disrespect 5T, but I can't see the sense in struggling to take off an old hard tyre with tyre irons when a grinder will do the job in 1/10th of the time with no effort. Time saved with the grinder means the new tyre is on and your away........
Yeah. I'll need to get some tire irons to put new tires on anyway. But for not I'm not touching this tire while I wait for the seller to potentially trade me a better one.
 
Still waiting on parts for the brakes. BUT. Decided to warm up the garage tonight and I'm do a tear down/clean. So i yearned to hear it purr so I tried starting it. It wouldnt start with choke. Fuel started coming out of one of the air boxes. That means I need to adjust the floats in the carbs? I need to take them off anyway to put a larger jet in it due to the 2:1 exhaust. Any tips on adjustment of the floats? I also got some grease nipples that imma try to steal the ball our of to get my choke to stay put.
 
Fuel started coming out of one of the air boxes. That means I need to adjust the floats in the carbs?
Means either your float valve or it's oring is stuck/bad... or your float filled with gas and sunk. Out of curiosity, can you pull the plug on that cylinder, shine a light down there and see if it got wet from gas? Did the gas run down into the cylinder as well as out the airbox?
 
Means either your float valve or it's oring is stuck/bad... or your float filled with gas and sunk. Out of curiosity, can you pull the plug on that cylinder, shine a light down there and see if it got wet from gas? Did the gas run down into the cylinder as well as out the airbox?
I did a full rebuild of the carb. Including replacing the valve with a new one. Hopefully it isnt bad. I can pull a plug here in a bit. I also checked my floats to see if they leaked before putting them back it. I kept them in a bowl of water for a week and they stayed afloat.
 
I did a full rebuild of the carb. Including replacing the valve with a new one.
Including the o-ring?
I also checked my floats to see if they leaked before putting them back it. I kept them in a bowl of water for a week and they stayed afloat.
That's not a good test. A hole floating above the water will never get wet. Here's the @gggGary method. Immerse the float completely (hold 'em with needle nose) in water that was bought to a boil first and look for bubbles. The heat causes the air inside the float to expand. It will force it's way out under pressure.... bubbles.
 
Including the o-ring?

That's not a good test. A hole floating above the water will never get wet. Here's the @gggGary method. Immerse the float completely (hold 'em with needle nose) in water that was bought to a boil first and look for bubbles. The heat causes the air inside the float to expand. It will force it's way out under pressure.... bubbles.
I do believe the oring is included in this kit. https://www.cruzinimage.net/2017/07/26/80-81-yamaha-xs650-carb-repair-kits/. Thats what I used. It would be in the brass fitting that the float valve goes into correct?

Also I pulled the plug and looked in there. Pretty hard to see. It does look wet in there but I dont know if that is normal or not. I cant see and running or dripping
 
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