Neck Gusset Kits! - By Hugh's HandBuilt

Punkskalar

Hugh's HandBuilt
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3 Styles, to fit your build perfectly!

Remove that ugly OEM Neck Gusset and Crossover tube, and weld these in for a much cleaner look :thumbsup:

Custom Cut from 1018 Steel

Over 1lb Lighter than OEM Neck Gusset

Clean and Simple Design

Includes 2 Dimpled Gussets and 1 NEW Crossover Tube

"The Goose" - Inspired by Vintage BMX Frames

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"Windowed" - These Match Our Lower Motor Mount Kits, and our "Windowed" Upper Motor Mount Kits nicely :bike:

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And our plain "Jane" version...

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Thanks for the support folks :thumbsup:

As always, you can find these in our store. If it's In Stock on the website, it ships ASAP. No waiting, no fuss...

Hugh
 
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The Mongoose Gussets were stamped outward.
Did you run and type of HAZ prediction this thru solid works or macroetch? I'd think this would weaken the top tube considerably. IMO adding this gusset would make the frame much weaker than stock.
 
Just trying to clearify a lot of fuzzy math. I have built from bicycle, chopper to ATV frames for more than 20+ years.
Explain how I'm wrong. -The back bone tube is already the weakest part of the frame. Adding a gusset that size in the HAZ makes it weaker.
 
The Mongoose Gussets were stamped outward.
Did you run and type of HAZ prediction this thru solid works or macroetch? I'd think this would weaken the top tube considerably. IMO adding this gusset would make the frame much weaker than stock.

"Inspired" by the old BMX frames, not copied :thumbsup:

Being that the OEM frame is mild steel, heat affected zones would be much different than on more exotic tubing such as Chromoly, Stainless and other heat treatable materials.

We can't predict what type of welding, heat input, etc... any particular person would use to weld on these frames - each welder will have a different method and technique of course.

It would be hard to hurt these old frames much - being that they are mild non-heat treated low carbon steel, many folks have run without neck gussets (Myself included) and this is simply an option for folks who wish to add some strength back to a frame, clean up the old ugly factory stuff, etc...

I haven't had a frame failure yet, but I keep trying :laugh::laugh:

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With as many of these bikes that have been chopped, modded, wrecked over the years, if there was much of an issue, we would probably have many many posts of folks with damaged frames - the weakest link does seem to be the backbone, just above the rear motor mount - thats where i see these frames fatigue and crack most often. Usually due to a drop seat hardtail frame design :bike:

It never hurts to ask though :thumbsup:
 
The weakening caused by the heat affected zone does not mean that the weldments are going to break.
It only means that it has less strength then previously.

I did so.e practice welding of 1 1/8" .120 wall mild tube that was tig welded by me when I was learning. It had a huge haz because I was still learning. I ran it too hot too slow.
it was tested on a device used to bend CWB test plates. The joint did fail at the edge of the weld where expected. However, it still took a 6 tonne press more than 3/4 of it's full stroke to crack it. This is more than what I would expect from a 1970's - 80's mig welded joint that looks like it was done by Ray Charles.
 
Bumping for the Holidays - you folks have a great end of 2015, we'll have some killer new products in 2016!

Thanks for all the support folks :thumbsup:
 
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