Neutral As Ignition Cut Off?

No 5t it is a Japanese home country model G 1979 first of the TCI models released. My VIN starts with 3G50005**. That's why I have to use a few different wiring diagrams and getting a full replacement harness would run into some issues for me but slowly replacing and repairing
 
Ozboy, Pay to put your bike model in your signature...........

Japanese 3G5
fol3G5_2 3G5 80 NMB - VB Japanese.jpg 3G5 XS650 SPL.jpg

I'm not saying it is right.......My ID chart has the 3G5 as a 79/80 Manufacturing date, Making them an 80.

I know the Japanese 78 was an SE but it had the Spoke 19"front/16"rear Alloy rimed wheels.
Your Gauges would be the same as these 78SE's ....Yes???
s-l1600s.jpg s-l1600.jpg
 
From the Japanese Standard 80 and 81TX650, TCI Model......Should be the same as your 3G5.
TX650 (4E3) Parts manual  116.jpg TX650 (4E3) Parts manual  120.jpg

Your being a TCI model i would think the 80SG/G diagram would work for your 3G5.......The main difference would be the warning light when you go over the speed limit............I would be interested to know how that is wired up

Noticed you don't have the Headlight Failure warning light on the Dash, (know that is the speed limit warning light), also the wiring for the Gauges and Tower, (top 2 lights), are going to be the same as the US78SE/79SF. This one area is where your going to have to marry 2 diagrams
 
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Hey Skull.. it is there 1979 XS-SG-P (Jap) i got that from the ID guide in the tech section. Thanks for the wiring loom kit tip i need to dig deeper on that.
The gauges were destroyed so I got another set from Japan as it was hard to find Kmh set but a shit ton of MPH tho. Cant help on the over speed light sorry
The RLU, Flasher canceler and light checker all that stuff removed or disconnected. It is just the newer 6 pin connection to the Solenoid that is different plus the handle bar earth for Starter Switch i have. It is between the SE and G diagrams I use from Tech section to work my way thru things but I have noticed some different colors on the bike from the G diagram but easy enough to work out.
You gurus are awesome!!
 
Those diagrams can't be relied on to have the exact same colours as the looms.............Just thought........... you may have the Pass button/light Flasher the same as we got over here on the Oceania bikes..........Has a Red/Yellow power wire and has a jumper Yellow of the headlight high beam to activate the headlight when he button is pushed........

My 80SG................................
P1030208 copy.jpg Text@.jpgP1000931 copy.jpg Crop-text@.jpg
Early type Pass button. Jap 78SE same as of my 74TXA
Japan SE 447-905470 5 crop copy.jpg


.Also the US models with TCI from 80 onward didn't have a light checker so that will be missing from the US 80SG/G TCI diagrams..........But i is on the US 78SE and 79SF/SII diagram, That could have been confusing.

Side Note...........I have a few KPH gauges from the US 78SE/79SF. They are MPH Odometers with KPH on the inside. If you have problems in the future. I have a couple i want to get rid of
Like these. Have full gauges or separate Speedo/rev counter
5 78SE Special.jpg
 
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Yep i have the 80SG pass button. The other thing that seemed strange is that the carb fuel inlets are on the outside fitted with 10mm banjo 8mm barb. Dont most CV34's have the 'T' inbetween them? Forks are 35mm but no drain screws in the bottom.
Cheers on the gauges if every i need them.
 
I don't think there's a lot of info out there on the Jap home market models. Parts could very well differ. All the 650 BS34s I've ever seen have the fuel "T" between them, but there are BS34s used on other models that are set up like yours. Maybe your carbs were swapped or maybe it's one of those Jap home market differences. Do you have a gas tank with 2 petcocks? If so, maybe that's why the carbs are set up that way. When the BS34s came out in the U.S. (1980), the gas tank was also changed to a single petcock version. So, you had one petcock and one fuel line feeding one fuel inlet (the "T") for both carbs.
 
Brains just work in strange ways. Like getting off the bike without putting the side stand down. Hey, what the hell just happened?

Scott
Worse' still is leaving the side stand down and taking off. I went off the road on a turn, but with enough space to stop. So I took the side stand off, but now I'm going to attach a piece of rubber to it, like other bikes, so it kicks up when it hits the ground.
 
Some pics of the oddities on the bike would be nice. Especially the carb set up.

I was going through the Japanese 4E3 TX650, (80-82 Standard), and noticed the front forks were different to the 35mm forks as we know them............The tops of the forks have the same caps as the 34mm forks and the internals are different to the "Normal" 35mm forks as we know them.

May be a caution for the future or some pics of the tops would be nice as well to see if yours are different as per the Japanese TX650 parts manual.
80-82 4E3 TX650........Note the difference........Look at the part no's
TX650 (4E3) Parts manual  074.jpg TX650 (4E3) Parts manual  075.jpg TX650 (4E3) Parts manual  077.jpg
82 SJ 35mm forks...........................................................................Clear Diagram
81 SH parts  Manualt36 36.jpg 81 SH parts  Manualt37 37.jpg XS650SJ Service manual Jpeg088.jpg


Be nice to have a list of these differences in a thread for future reference
fol3G5_2 3G5 80 NMB - VB Japanese crop copy.jpg
 
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Ozboy, Came across this info. Might help clear up some nuances. I think he means TCI instead of CDI......????

Post #238
http://www.xs650.com/threads/id-your-model.42/page-12

Just for the record for anyone else with an XS650 from this series, none of the Japanese 3G5 engines were numbered. Seems the Japs didn't have much use for engine numbers around this time, so Yamaha didn't waste time and money giving them any. Most Japanese market Yamahas of all model types were given similarly unnumbered engines. The only number on the engine will be the type number (447 in this case).

A significant number of used Japanese XS650s were exported by the container load in the late eighties. They ended up in Europe (I have one), the US and apparently Australia and NZ too. So if you have a 3G5 machine with a 447 engine number, it doesn't mean the engine's been changed - it means it's original.

3G5 000xxx machines were classed by Yamaha as a 1979 model and were available in 'Vintage Burgundy' or 'New Midnight Blue' - I think both these colours were unique to the Japanese market. 3G5 000xxx machines also had an odd, hybrid electric setup with separate regulator and rectifier but with CDI ignition. Never seen a wiring diagram that shows this combination.

Hope this helps any current owners.
 
Skull man your knowledge is amazing. I am flying to NZ tonight last minute for work but here some info below but when I get a chance I will get you a list and photos of this Jap G machine. I will start another thread for you when I get back. I have attached some photos of carbs and forks without the drain screw clear in the photo. It has the flat mount for the screw but maybe that guy had a sickie and it just didn't get done.
  • I have two petcocks on my tanks but only using the one on the right with the fuel hose going thru the middle down under the bowls then up to the banjo bolt. Seems to work ok but this is 8mm not the 6mm standard.
  • I didn't have an engine number on my bike and this would have made compliance in Aus a nightmare to get a letter from Yamaha stating this model has no engine number. So a quick trip to Super Cheap Auto Parts and got a number punch set....i think you know what I am sayin... Matching Numbers ha ha ha!!
  • I have the TCI fitted under the battery box and the Reg/Rec is mounted on the down bar. I thought it might have been converted somehow but these mounts look original and the wiring all looks original. Wiring to the coil is just the two wires so no set up for points either. It was another thought i had it might have been changed.
  • 5t I did think the carbies might have come off some other bike because all the internal jets were so lean it was insane. Do you know what other bikes had these? The mount bracket can be swapped obviously.
  • Carbies.jpg
    Fork_No_Screw.jpg
 
The XS400 used somewhat similar carbs but only the left one had the banjo fuel fitting. The right carb was fed fuel from the left carb via a crossover hose. So, nothing seems to match up exactly. Either you've got Jap home market stuff or some P.O.'s custom adaptation of who knows what from where, lol. I never saw forks without the oil drain screws, again maybe a Jap home market thing.
 
I rode into work this morning so here is a quick photo side view of the fuel into carbies.
Skull PM me all the details you would like to see on this G and I would be more than happy to make a start

Side_View.jpg
 
...I never have the key on to adjust the clutch...

Me neither. Then again, I don't have an electric starter.
I do all my work with the bike on the centerstand.

Cars have seat pressure switches, for the seatbelt warning.
Newer tractors have seat pressure switches, they shut down when you climb off.

Do any motorcycles have seat pressure switches?
 
Do any motorcycles have seat pressure switches?
You kidder you!
NO! Among other reasons it would be immediately bypassed; I stand while riding through small towns on long rides.
OZ I would suggest using thinner think Tygon fuel line and route the line over the top of the intakes, remove the down loop. It's just too easy for air bubbles in a gravity flow system to reduce flow, a small amount of gas can trickle around the bubble, so the bike will start but go lean when consumption increases.
 
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Well ...but some bikes have switch....wrist strap so if your hand leaves bars bike shuts off...required for trials competition...kinda same as seat switch on tractor
 
On those carbs, I wonder if someone simply swapped them from left to right and reassembled? Probably not hard to switch back I wouldn't think.
 
No, I don't think they've been swapped side to side. If you look at the carb set pic in post #31, you can see the tab for the idle speed adjuster screw has not been drilled and tapped on the right carb. It couldn't have been a left carb like that.
 
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