neutral light switch

BartBuddy28

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Ok so im believing that my neutral light switch on my motor case is bad after several tests i have performed...now a really stupid question...does anyone know where to get a new one? I have an 81 xs650 and mikesxs.net does not have one
 
Bike "on" and in neutral. Disconnect wire from neutral switch. Put one probe of voltmeter on wire and other on any GOOD ground (beware of using cases that are factory-painted with aluminum color paint). You should get 12+ volts. If you don't, trouble-shoot the rest of the neutral light circuit.
 
I bought a new switch from Yamaha because mine was leaking. Turned out mine was just a bit loose in the case so I never installed the new one. The new one is very cheap, all plastic. I'm glad I was able to remedy the problem with the old one.
 
5twins said "The new one is very cheap, all plastic."

5twins, if that means that the whole body, threads and all, of the switch is plastic, the body of the switch is not the grounding path, right? I've been bench-testing an old spare and thought that when the plunger was pressed in, it should be continuous between the terminal and the body, and it wasn't. I'm thinking that when the plunger touches the neutral spot on the drum, the ground path is actually through the drum. Somebody correct me if that's wrong, please.
 
Thread update.
My neutral switch had been acting up this year, intermittent, and dimming neutral lamp.
Ordered another one. The supply is starting to dry up.
Just for trivia sake, here's a pic with the part number, and some dimensions.
This is an early metal unit, doesn't use a terminal screw, instead uses a spring to hold the wire-end.
XS650-NeutralSwitch1.jpg



...I'm thinking that when the plunger touches the neutral spot on the drum, the ground path is actually through the drum. Somebody correct me if that's wrong, please.

Good question. Let's open it up.
Carefully trim off the crimp ring.
XS650-NeutralSwitch2.jpg


Pop the top off and withdraw the guts.
XS650-NeutralSwitch3.jpg


There's a flat rubber o-ring that seals under the top hat.

The plunger is confined between 2 hard rubber guides. A spring fits into the plunger at one end and presses against the base of the connector post.
XS650-NeutralSwitch4.jpg


So, there we have it. It's not a switch at all. It's just a spring-loaded plunger that connects to ground by contacting a post on the shiftdrum.

The spring and the contact face are corroded.

Studying the thing, it would appear that one could possibly freshen the inner connectivity by simply rotating the plunger back-and-forth several times. That'd be something for gggGary to figure out...
 
Last edited:
Another thread update.
A (used) neutral switch arrived.
Continuity test showed about 1-2 ohms resistance. Another dirty one.

...Studying the thing, it would appear that one could possibly freshen the inner connectivity by simply rotating the plunger back-and-forth several times...

So, I did just that. Holding the plunger with needle-nose pliers, did a bit of back-and-forth twisting. Could hear the little spring scraping in there.

Continuity test now showed 0 ohms resistance. Should be okay for awhile.
Installed, my neutral light is really bright now...
 
I thought mine was defective BECAUSE it had connectivity between the plunger and wire terminal most of the time. It never occurred to me that it's not a switch. I'll give it a few twists and check the circuit back to the bulb.
Thanks for the neutral "switch" dissection and photos 2M, very helpful.
Christen
 
I ordered a new switch as I believe mine went out. Does anyone know if the plunger at the bottom is tensioned by that internal spring? I can loosely push the bottom plunger up as there isn’t any pressure on it.

Or is there a small detent on the shift drum that slips up into the plunger?

When I ground out the neutral wire going to the switch my neutral light comes on. So switch somehow went bad.
 

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