New-B ... Sump Filter change

Its pretty funny, I was just looking through the German manual someone poster on page one and the picture that's posted there in the book of the sump filter is destroyed the same way everyone has said it would be. Worth a look
 
Quick question. I pulled the sump plate off yesterday and the filter is fine but one of the bolts has broken with the stem still in the motor. If I can't get it out, will 5 bolts be enough to hold the plate without leaking?
 
Just go pick up an extractor set. for a bolt that small you could get one for like $10. It will probably hold but its probably going to leak pretty badly. plus you'll have to over torque the others to keep it dry. then take one of the other sump pan bolts to ace hardware and find its match
 
On the sump plate bolts, the stock ones are special bolts. They are designed to break off if over torqued. This way the hole in the alloy won't be damaged. If you remove the sump plate, enough of the bolt may stick out to grab with pliers or vice grips to turn it out.
If you replace these bolts with hardware store bolts, be sure you don't over torque them, ripping the threads out of the case sucks.
5 to 7 ft/lbs is the spec.
Over tightening just 5 bolts can warp the sump plate enough so it can leak even with all the bolts.
Leo
 
Thanks for your help!
I was able to grab what was left of the bolt with some pointy vice grips and get it out of there! I picked up all new bolts in stainless and reinstalled everything to 7lbs torque. All seems to be ok, except that the oil looks kinda bubbly in the sight glass. Is that a bad thing?
cc
 
New oil often looks like that, don't know why. It should settle down once you put a few miles on it.
 
Three years ago!!!!! I mentioned SS screen from flea bay sellers, well about a year ago I bought some and this week (shakes head) I actually used it and repaired some filters. Stainless Steel 304 Mesh #100 .0065 Wire. This is fine "mesh" about equal to the OEM but the stainless should be stronger than brass. Need to get a more slippery surface on my "gluing jig" Now I need to run them, guess piling on the miles will have to wait til next year.
There are several varieties of JB weld IMHO get the slow cure formula it has a higher temperature and strength rating. I was migging on sheet metal then JB welding sheet metal now trying the screen. I have some coarse screen also, that could be glued over the fine screen.
 

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Yes, a screen patch might be the hot ticket. I mentioned recently that I finally had a patched filter give out, but it wasn't my patch that blew. The filter simply blew out in another spot, the flat back side opposite from that pointed spot that usually goes. It seems a solid patch just redirects the oil pressure to another screened area, and that eventually tears out then too.
 
I think the screen mesh, aftermarket or stock filters, is just too fine for cold 20W50 oil. Maybe it would be better to go to a more course
mesh. Its purpose is to stop larger debris (metal,plastic etc.) from getting to the pump. Then use a real paper filter on the pump outlet.
 
Maybe this gets it "outta the line of fire". Hidens new design does not have the off side single bolt.
I haven't had it out since install if I see anything alarming at that time I'll post.
IMG_20161024_111928_890.jpg
 
If you want to put on a fine screen and a coarser screen, wouldn't it be better to have the coarser on the inside.
It seems with the coarser on the outside it wouldn't support the finer on the inside.
Leo
 
If you want to put on a fine screen and a coarser screen, wouldn't it be better to have the coarser on the inside.
It seems with the coarser on the outside it wouldn't support the finer on the inside.
Leo
I always kind of thought it was more of a push in than a pull in but you sure could be right. A question that will have to wait a bit for me, I have 8 filters done, 2 sheet metal patches 6 with fine screens. Resto is due for change before next season. Will prolly put in a screen version. Maybe I'll add a coarse screen for research purposes. I've been trying to do more of a warm up before riding but patience has never been my strong suit. Helps to have a knob on the idle screw on the 38s so it will idle while pulling on my gear.
dscn6399-jpg.90036
 
Three years ago!!!!! I mentioned SS screen from flea bay sellers, well about a year ago I bought some and this week (shakes head) I actually used it and repaired some filters. Stainless Steel 304 Mesh #100 .0065 Wire. This is fine "mesh" about equal to the OEM but the stainless should be stronger than brass. Need to get a more slippery surface on my "gluing jig" Now I need to run them, guess piling on the miles will have to wait til next year.
There are several varieties of JB weld IMHO get the slow cure formula it has a higher temperature and strength rating. I was migging on sheet metal then JB welding sheet metal now trying the screen. I have some coarse screen also, that could be glued over the fine screen.

Gary - is this the stuff you bought?

https://www.amazon.com/Yikai-5pcs-S...en_browse-bin:5485702011&s=industrial&sr=1-14
 
Yes, 400 might be too fine. I see they have 200, maybe a good compromise. Gary, does the 100 look to be the same size as the original?
 
Iirc 2many did a lot of research on this, that led me to picking the 100 mesh as correct for the sump aka pre-filter. I bought a heavier coarser screen to go over the 100 mesh for strength but never used it. I have a couple oil changes on one or two of these, all good so far.
 
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Check out this weave. This is not what I've used before. This looks and feels very sturdy !
I'm under the impression that the idea is to disrupt the oil flow force against the original screen to eliminate the resulting tear.
My own intentions were not to add filtration but to add strength while not reducing oil flow much.
 

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