New Clutch Rebuild Problem 72 XS2

ash13brook

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I have a guy working on my XS2.
I bought replacement friction plates, including the extra one needed for an XS2.
MikesXS didnt have steel plates in stock at the time, so I bought a couple off the "bay".
The clutch is together and seems to be functioning properly, but I cant pull the handle in without jerking it in. It's way to tight.
The guy working on it at first thought it was because of new springs, but I told him that it's way too tight.
I was wondering if the steel plates are thinner on a replacement clutch. I used an extra of the older type.
Also, I read something about alignment during reassembly. Is this more likely the problem?
And last. Does a 72 use a tabbed washer under the clutch hub nut?
 
This is a thread started by 2M , he has done many many experiments to try and achieve a more efficient and easier to operate clutch. It is a great read.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-cable-experiments-and-tidbits.32945/

I too , found the pull at the lever to be excessive. So I worked at trying to get a better / easier pull.
Taking information from that thread and applying it to my XS2 , from that same link.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-worm-actuator-experiment-tidbits.31554/page-12#post-585696

Posts
#226 and 233
 
...The clutch is together and seems to be functioning properly, but I cant pull the handle in without jerking it in.

Without good lubrication, the clutch cable can hang-up inside the curved elbow, at the lower left sidecover.

...I was wondering if the steel plates are thinner on a replacement clutch. I used an extra of the older type.

You have to have the correct combo of friction/steel plates.
Read thru this recent, similar thread. Follow the imbedded links.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/1970-xs1-clutch.54746/

...Also, I read something about alignment during reassembly. Is this more likely the problem?

70-73 clutches don't use the alignment dot.

...And last. Does a 72 use a tabbed washer under the clutch hub nut?

70-73 clutches used a belleville washer with lockwasher...
 
Thanks, all.
I can see already that I gave the guy working on it the wrong steel plates.
I have the MikesXS clutch cable, so I think I'll go with the Motion Pro. That may or may not make a difference, but it won't hurt.
Then, I might have to go back to working on it myself so I have a better idea of exactly what's going on in there.
I had this young guy straighten out the electronic ignition and carbs because I was frustrated after a few years tinkering with it. He got it running great so I got lazy and had him do the clutch. But, now, I'm trying to figure out a problem I didnt cause.

Thanks for the start,
Matt
 
Oh, also, does the Motion Pro cable get lubed?

Matt

The motion pro will make a BIG difference. It’s heavier and has strategically placed inner nylon sleeves. It should be lubed. The best method is to hang it up and fab up a funnel at the top then drip motor oil until it comes out the bottom. I also , afterward, apply grease to the cable where it slides in and out of the sheath at both ends.
You should also consider drilling your clutch actuating arm , to move the cable attachment point out to the end of the arm. It will increase the leverage and ease the pull.
 
Drilling the arm is also on the agenda.
I'm starting to get a little excited to finally be able to ride mine. I've been fooling around for 6 years trying to get it running good enough that I feel confident leaving the house without having my "recovery" trailer hooked up and my wife near the phone.
Thanks,
Matt
 
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