New guy

[aaronrocker]

Hey guys. Long time lurker first time poster. I have a 78 XS650. Have owned a few other bikes and still own a couple others. This seems like a good community of enthusiasts and a great place for shared knowledge. I'm in western Washington if you care.

Thaks guys.

Aaron

 

[nj1639]

Hey Aaron, welcome aboard!
Post some pics when ya can. On your '78- is that a Special or a Standard Roadster?
I just got my '78 Special relatively roadworthy, now to tag it.

 

[aaronrocker]

Standard. Just got it registered. She runs rough but is good for in town.

 

[aaronrocker]

Having problems posting it with the URL. Using the Flickr app. So here's an attachment until I figure out how to post it right

 

[Brassneck]

Having problems posting it with the URL. Using the Flickr app. So here's an attachment until I figure out how to post it right

Welcome to the group! You'll find tons of info on just about everything you ever wanted to know about the XS here.

(For a second there, I was hoping you may have found my old '78 I sold back in the late 90's... but nope, mine was a one-off paint job (Silver).

Are you going to restore yours? Plans?

(I'm in Seattle btw)

 

[aaronrocker]

I really want to get it running more reliably before I pull the motor for paint. And I'm thinking resto-mod (car term but sam theory). Very subtle changes. Same basic look.

I'm in puyallup

 

[aaronrocker]

I've had the motor out for valve lapping. Carbs deep cleaned and new seals and other things that needed replaced. New plugs and wires. Red kote the tank. New clutch. It's really just been nickel and dime stuff. It runs rough. Backfires and spits and sputters idling and on decel. Also it's tough taking off from a start. 1st gear is a bitch. I either have to goose it or really slow roll into the throttle. I'm sure that is a clutch adjustment and I'm sure the rough running is an AFM issue but it's kicking my ass for sure.

 

[Brassneck]

Hmmm...the exhaust doesn't look stock, or has been modified a lot for a '78 standard. Perhaps you have a combo of things going on:

Timing, carb tune, air leak, exhaust leak...and then clutch adjustment needs. And would probably be good to rule out charging/electrical first..then work on the rest one by one.

 

[nj1639]

Head pipes look correct but the muffs are different....'77 tank graphics.

I swapped out the entire clutch basket on my '77 for a spare newer one out of an '81 or '82 that I had on hand due to that starting out in first issue, world of improvement.

 

[650Skull]

Welcome,

There is really nothing to distinguish between the 77 and 78 if parts have been swapped over. The tank is from a 77, 78 tank has Emblems.

The 77 35mm fork internals are different to the later 78-83 Standard and Special 35mm forks, here is a thread that will help when you go to play with them.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45253

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45580

 

[aaronrocker]

According to my title it is actually an SE. Special being the s and 78 is the e. Huh. Is there a Vin checker?

 

[nj1639]

Check the right side of the neck for the numbers. Compare them to the title. There're numbers on the case of the engine.... Lower right side in the front......facing the front of the engine it'll be to the left of the oil tube, stamped into a flat. Compare that to the neck and to the numbers on the title, however, the engine could have been swapped at sometime.

The angle of the shock to the frame shows that the bike is a standard model and not a special. Should be a '77D - considering the tank, or a '78E.
Fun stuff!

Check this link for numbers to year identification........
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30569

 

[aaronrocker]

Thanks nj1639

 

[5twins]

The frame is definitely a Standard. One of the big "tells" is the passenger footpeg and muffler mount, the loop style you have. The Special has just a single tube jutting out. Your forks appear to be the '78 and later style. Check under the rubber cap on top for an adjuster screw. These forks have preload adjustment for the springs .....

And are those dark green metallic side covers I see sitting over on the bench? If so, that was a stock color for the '78 Standard. I'm thinking you have a '78 Standard with a '77 tank swapped on. That '77 tank has normal style manual petcocks. The '78 tank had vacuum powered petcocks. To run that '77 tank, the vacuum ports on the intake manifolds that used to power the original petcocks must be plugged or capped. If yours are still open, that explains why it's running so rough. You have two giant air leaks there, lol.

 

[aaronrocker]

Manual pecocks yes. I have the vacuum ports capped already. Never put 2 and 2 together on that though. Haha.

 

[aaronrocker]

Checked the charts. It's a 78 xs650-E standard. Someone got it wrong at the DMV way back i guess. Motor match the frame also. So it's a swapped tank by previous owner.

 

[nj1639]

Very good!
The '78E may be a bit more common than the '79F but a good score to be maintaining in somewhat original condition......now to find the matching tank......lol

 

[XSLeo]

The rough running could still be carbs. I might suggest reading the carb guide, print it out and keep it by the bed for a little light reading. Once you have it pretty much memorized follow the steps to tear down, clean, inspect, replace just what needs to be replaced, then tune them to match the intake and exhaust systems.
There are links around the site to the carb guide but here's another one www.amakayltd.com/carbguide.pdf
It can also be ignition related, with points it can be a bit work to get them right. Your repair manual covers it.
Have you checked the alternators function yet? low voltage can cause rough running. At idle battery voltage should be around 12.5 to 13.5 volts. At above 2500 rpms it should climb to around 14.2 to 14.5 volts, revving higher it should not go any higher.
Leo

 

[5twins]

Speaking of the ignition, if you still have points, a bad condenser can cause the symptoms you're experiencing. If you do still have the points ignition and haven't changed them (and the condenser), you should. There's no telling how long they have been in there. Points have a limit to their service life, about 10 to 15K miles. In that time, they open and close literally millions of times. That strap steel "spring" that snaps them closed can get weak. That's why they need replacing even if the points faces still look good (not all pitted up).

 

[aaronrocker]

Hooked it up to the homemade manometer and after lots of fussing with it it seems the right cylinder is the real rough one. Cold exhaust, popping, maybe a timing issue?