New guy

[Getmitchorditryn]

Hey all,

I've been riding sport bikes and Harleys for 12 years but j ust bought my first xs650 (1979). 10,000 original miles, 1 owner. It leaks some oil on the engine gasket seals so that will be my first repair. Just looking for some advice on what else to look into to start. I've already read the rotella oil debate stuff.... How about an oil filter, fuel, etc.

Thanks!

 

[59Tebo]

Hi mitch! Welcome to the party! That's a sweet lookin' '79! As for the oil "leak" (seep?), is it around the cylinders, top end, or side cases? Before you tear it apart, try removing the tank and top motor mount (if necessary), and give it a re-torque (refer to the manual for sequence and torque specs). Same for the right side (clutch cover). Rumor has it, these bikes vibrate, and hardware tends to loosen, gaskets tend to "squish". If it's leaking on the left side, it could be the clutch rod seal. you'd be hard pressed to find a 40-year-old anything that doesn't leak something. Give it a little love, and it'll love you right back! Let us know. Don't be a stranger!
P.S. You might want to think (hard!) about changing those handle bars to something a little more ergonomic (for humans).

 

[5twins]

Yes, these are old bikes. Even the ones that look to be in good shape like yours still need a good going through. I usually start with the wiring, inspecting and cleaning it and all the connections. Also, repairing any rubbed bare wires I find, and there's usually a few. Next, you should probably go through your brakes, disassembling and cleaning the master cylinders and calipers. The rubber brake lines will most likely need replacing too.

This bike uses metal screen oil filters. You just clean and reuse them. But, the larger one mounted in the bottom of the engine has a tendency to tear. There are aftermarket replacements but they do the same thing, and they're not made as well as originals. Many of us just patch up the old ones with JB Weld. Look around the site here, you'll find lots written about this.

For fuel, I like to use high test to ward off pinging. Many of us also set our timing a couple degrees retarded to also help with this. Your model was the last year for the points ignition so unless the P.O. installed an aftermarket electronic ignition, you'll have to deal with the points. They have a limited life span, usually 10 to 15K miles. Since you probably don't know when or if they were last changed, you should probably start fresh with new ones.

 

[azman857]

I'd like to extend an Arizona sized welcome to you mitch. Nice XS650 to wrench and ride. These are great bikes. Happy Wrenching!

 

[Getmitchorditryn]

Hi mitch! Welcome to the party! That's a sweet lookin' '79! As for the oil "leak" (seep?), is it around the cylinders, top end, or side cases? Before you tear it apart, try removing the tank and top motor mount (if necessary), and give it a re-torque (refer to the manual for sequence and torque specs). Same for the right side (clutch cover). Rumor has it, these bikes vibrate, and hardware tends to loosen, gaskets tend to "squish". If it's leaking on the left side, it could be the clutch rod seal. you'd be hard pressed to find a 40-year-old anything that doesn't leak something. Give it a little love, and it'll love you right back! Let us know. Don't be a stranger!
P.S. You might want to think (hard!) about changing those handle bars to something a little more ergonomic (for humans).

Thanks az! When I bought it, it began leaking from the top end and down just the left side. I figured I would just change all the gaskets out; because as you mentioned 40 years...

Those bars will be the first thing to go after the engine is running properly. I already broke my wrist once, don't need to do it again just trying to ride.

 

[Getmitchorditryn]

Yes, these are old bikes. Even the ones that look to be in good shape like yours still need a good going through. I usually start with the wiring, inspecting and cleaning it and all the connections. Also, repairing any rubbed bare wires I find, and there's usually a few. Next, you should probably go through your brakes, disassembling and cleaning the master cylinders and calipers. The rubber brake lines will most likely need replacing too.

This bike uses metal screen oil filters. You just clean and reuse them. But, the larger one mounted in the bottom of the engine has a tendency to tear. There are aftermarket replacements but they do the same thing, and they're not made as well as originals. Many of us just patch up the old ones with JB Weld. Look around the site here, you'll find lots written about this.

For fuel, I like to use high test to ward off pinging. Many of us also set our timing a couple degrees retarded to also help with this. Your model was the last year for the points ignition so unless the P.O. installed an aftermarket electronic ignition, you'll have to deal with the points. They have a limited life span, usually 10 to 15K miles. Since you probably don't know when or if they were last changed, you should probably start fresh with new ones.

Thanks! I'll read into the filters. I can get up to 93 octane where I'm at. I'm assuming that would do the trick?

I'm not familiar with the points ignition so that will be a learning curve. I was considering just going kick start only to be honest.

 

[59Tebo]

I was considering just going kick start only to be honest.[/QUOTE

Yeah. I thought about that too. Kick only, capacitor or minimalist battery, less weight, blah, blah, blah. A wise man once said "...Kick is for show, electric start is for people with someplace they need to be..." As for the weight, if I lost the weight my cardiologist told me to, that would be more than the battery (full size!) and starter motor combined. IMHO, unless you plan to qualify for the TT race, I'd keep the starter, for now...

 

[5twins]

Yes, the 93 octane would be fine. Several of our local stations have started carrying the no alcohol gas. It's only about 90 octane but the bike likes it and it's what I use now.

Yes, you'll need to learn about the points system if you still have it, so you need to find out. Remove the little chrome covers above the spark plugs on both sides of the motor. If you still have points, they'll be under the cover on the left side and look like this .....

Under the cover on the right side, you'll find a mechanical advance unit that looks like this .....

It needs to be serviced occasionally as well. It and the advance rod that passes through the cam need to be kept lubed. Many of these have not been touched since they left the factory near 40 years ago and, needless to say, are in dire need of servicing.

 

[Getmitchorditryn]

Yes, the 93 octane would be fine. Several of our local stations have started carrying the no alcohol gas. It's only about 90 octane but the bike likes it and it's what I use now.

Yes, you'll need to learn about the points system if you still have it, so you need to find out. Remove the little chrome covers above the spark plugs on both sides of the motor. If you still have points, they'll be under the cover on the left side and look like this .....

Under the cover on the right side, you'll find a mechanical advance unit that looks like this .....It needs to be serviced occasionally as well. It and the advance rod that passes through the cam need to be kept lubed. Many of these have not been touched since they left the factory near 40 years ago and, needless to say, are in dire need of servicing.

Thanks, wow that looks fun to mess with...

Is that only used for the battery ignition?

 

[5twins]

Most all 650 ignition systems, even the aftermarket electronic ones, use a battery. You can't run without one unless you change the whole charging system to a PMA, but personally, I don't recommend that. It's quite expensive, is no better than the original, and carries with it it's own set of unique problems.