I bought one of those $27 Chinese M/C's. It doesn't have the same quality of the stock M/C that I was using. It does work well.
I found a few things I didn't like. The brake light switch from my Yamaha won't fit the hole in the bracket. No problem, I kinda expected that.
On the mirror mount it is a right hand thread. So I can't use the matching mirrors I had on the bike.
One plus is your stock lever fits and works fine.
Now back to the brake light switch. Seeing a I had to redo some wiring to get it to work. While I was doing some wiring I figured I would wire up the right side Honda CM400 controls to my wiring. The colors were different but I opened up the housing and with my meter I figured out what wires do what.
The engine stop switch had a green and black/white wire. I just spliced them to the brown and red/white of my 75 home made harness. Only thing is the Honda engine stop switch in the run position is open circuit. In the off position it closes the switch and grounds the CDI. Just the opposite as I need. So I have to run the bike in off. Run kills the power.
On the starter button it doesn't just ground to the bars. It has a black wire.
The push button has two other wires, a yellow/green and a black/yellow.
When you push the button it hooks the y/g wire to the black wire. Easy enough. Just splice the y/g it the b/w from the starter relay. Ground the black.
Now with a bit of scratching my head and testing how the black/yellow wire on the push button goes I found without the button pushed the b/y wire hooks to the black wire.
Now As the Honda controls had no headlight on/off switch and the Yamaha controls did I had to figure out how to get the headlight to light.
Thinking about the Honda it uses a headlight cut relay to kill power to the headlight when cranking the starter. So with a bit of reasoning I thought this b/y wire would work to trip a relay.
I pick up relays at the junk yard. These are 5 terminal relay's, they can make a connection as well as break a connection.
So I came off the power to the headlight switch, which is now gone and ran it to both terminal 30 and 85. From terminal 85 I ran to the b/y wire on the Honda push button.
Power it up and sure enough when I push the starter button the relay tripped.
Now from the terminal 87A I ran this to the wire sending power to the headlight dimmer switch.
Power it up and the headlight is on. Push the starter button the headlight goes off and the starter cranks.
Very functional.
One problem though, on the test ride I lost one of my Uni-Filters. Not the filters fault. I some times like to surprise people along the road by throttling up then coast as I near them, As I coast I flick the engine stop switch off then back on. This cause a back fire that if done right sounds a lot like a gun shot. I did this and the back fire blew off on filter.
A bit of fun and now I have to get a new filter. I had the PK-92's on there. I think I might go with a set of the Dual foam filters like I had at first. The ones I had were 6 inches long and didn't fit well. They were squashed out of shape by the battery box.
I meant to order the four inch version but screwed up and got the 6 inch.
I'll get the four inch version this time.
This makes them longer than the BK series filters and larger in diameter.
Get the new filters and get the side covers back on and even if one blows off it might not get lost.
Leo
I found a few things I didn't like. The brake light switch from my Yamaha won't fit the hole in the bracket. No problem, I kinda expected that.
On the mirror mount it is a right hand thread. So I can't use the matching mirrors I had on the bike.
One plus is your stock lever fits and works fine.
Now back to the brake light switch. Seeing a I had to redo some wiring to get it to work. While I was doing some wiring I figured I would wire up the right side Honda CM400 controls to my wiring. The colors were different but I opened up the housing and with my meter I figured out what wires do what.
The engine stop switch had a green and black/white wire. I just spliced them to the brown and red/white of my 75 home made harness. Only thing is the Honda engine stop switch in the run position is open circuit. In the off position it closes the switch and grounds the CDI. Just the opposite as I need. So I have to run the bike in off. Run kills the power.
On the starter button it doesn't just ground to the bars. It has a black wire.
The push button has two other wires, a yellow/green and a black/yellow.
When you push the button it hooks the y/g wire to the black wire. Easy enough. Just splice the y/g it the b/w from the starter relay. Ground the black.
Now with a bit of scratching my head and testing how the black/yellow wire on the push button goes I found without the button pushed the b/y wire hooks to the black wire.
Now As the Honda controls had no headlight on/off switch and the Yamaha controls did I had to figure out how to get the headlight to light.
Thinking about the Honda it uses a headlight cut relay to kill power to the headlight when cranking the starter. So with a bit of reasoning I thought this b/y wire would work to trip a relay.
I pick up relays at the junk yard. These are 5 terminal relay's, they can make a connection as well as break a connection.
So I came off the power to the headlight switch, which is now gone and ran it to both terminal 30 and 85. From terminal 85 I ran to the b/y wire on the Honda push button.
Power it up and sure enough when I push the starter button the relay tripped.
Now from the terminal 87A I ran this to the wire sending power to the headlight dimmer switch.
Power it up and the headlight is on. Push the starter button the headlight goes off and the starter cranks.
Very functional.
One problem though, on the test ride I lost one of my Uni-Filters. Not the filters fault. I some times like to surprise people along the road by throttling up then coast as I near them, As I coast I flick the engine stop switch off then back on. This cause a back fire that if done right sounds a lot like a gun shot. I did this and the back fire blew off on filter.
A bit of fun and now I have to get a new filter. I had the PK-92's on there. I think I might go with a set of the Dual foam filters like I had at first. The ones I had were 6 inches long and didn't fit well. They were squashed out of shape by the battery box.
I meant to order the four inch version but screwed up and got the 6 inch.
I'll get the four inch version this time.
This makes them longer than the BK series filters and larger in diameter.
Get the new filters and get the side covers back on and even if one blows off it might not get lost.
Leo
