I think it's from a '77, but I'm not 100% sure about that. It could also be from an XS500. I scrounge any and all locks and ignitions from '70s and '80s Yamahas I run across. Last trip to my dealer's boneyard netted me 3 forks locks, an ignition, and a seat/helmet lock. I think that about does it for that place. I've picked it over pretty good, lol.
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New ROTOR installed, few questions
- Thread starter XS650D
- Start date
Bone picker you..........had a look at my 74/75 after you posted the pics and the base looked the same as you posted, except mine has 1 blue wire........I'll get around to taking mine apart and post some pics
Not confusing the issue, raising a point that hasn't been mentioned........... i'm on the same page.......
Before your time Jim i was doing over my loom on my SG...........one of the main resident electrical gurus, (not on here no more), made the statement that blinkers will not blink real well with out the bike running, even with a fully charged battery.........Yep that was my bike............after a doing a full continuity test and connection clean of the loom, (as described in post #74 my blinkers worked bright and pulsated as regular as they did when the bike was running.........
That's why i mentioned to do the loom connections properly first.........We are looking for voltage drop and applying solutions.........
We're good Doug. I was referring to the OP's wondering about his batt. voltage dropping. Didn't want him to confuse the two.
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
Got it! Never took Electrical in high school like many, was optional at the time.
This helps me understand.Thx Jim
I have an old (my original) switch and key set.I will try pulling it apart first to see how that goes
and if all goes well will pull apart the new unit I got from mikes (few season ago)
Kind of a crash coarse! How do these switches get so dirty so quick.
This helps me understand.Thx Jim
I have an old (my original) switch and key set.I will try pulling it apart first to see how that goes
and if all goes well will pull apart the new unit I got from mikes (few season ago)
Kind of a crash coarse! How do these switches get so dirty so quick.
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
Quick question. When I test the brown wire at connector going to Reg,it needs to be connected to Reg Correct?
If I test the brown to the Reg with the Reg NOT connected at plug I get same voltage reading as battery AND my new LED readout is the same voltage. I guess theres a draw thru the Reg.
Also want to confirm with VR-115 Reg. The green to green, black to black and brown from bike goes to orange and yellow wires coming out of Reg, correct?
Thx
If I test the brown to the Reg with the Reg NOT connected at plug I get same voltage reading as battery AND my new LED readout is the same voltage. I guess theres a draw thru the Reg.
Also want to confirm with VR-115 Reg. The green to green, black to black and brown from bike goes to orange and yellow wires coming out of Reg, correct?
Thx
Yes... that's what you want. You're testing for voltage drop in the power feed system.... browns and reds, not the regulator.
I've never used one so I can't say. I'm sure a site search will turn up the answer.
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
So the Reg can be totally removed from bike for this test at the brown wire were the connector is.Holly Crap! In that case I have zero drop. Even with tail light on (LED bulb) plus my new LED Voltage readout and in gear,
(no neutral light bulb). But this did give me a heads up to a problem with the Reg (Thx Jim)
(no neutral light bulb). But this did give me a heads up to a problem with the Reg (Thx Jim)
Yes, your VR115 is wired up correctly.
The brown wire test at the regulator harness plug is to make sure you have voltage at or very near to what you have at the ignition switch and/or the battery. If that brown wire was reading low compared to the battery, the regulator would think the battery needed more charging and that would result in it actually over-charging it. What the regulator "reads" on that brown wire is what it bases it's output demand to the alternator on.
The brown wire test at the regulator harness plug is to make sure you have voltage at or very near to what you have at the ignition switch and/or the battery. If that brown wire was reading low compared to the battery, the regulator would think the battery needed more charging and that would result in it actually over-charging it. What the regulator "reads" on that brown wire is what it bases it's output demand to the alternator on.
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
k Thx 5T
1 small step for man, one step closer to riding!
When I get the new Reg on there if all working correctly.
When testing the Reg (connector hooked up) key on ,motor off ,should the green wire out
read the same as brown in.Or what should the green wire at the Positive brush read.Should I do the test motor running?
1 small step for man, one step closer to riding!
When I get the new Reg on there if all working correctly.
When testing the Reg (connector hooked up) key on ,motor off ,should the green wire out
read the same as brown in.Or what should the green wire at the Positive brush read.Should I do the test motor running?
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XS650D
XS650 Junkie
Well ,new Reg installed ,same one as before VR-115 . With the Reg hooked (connected) up I test voltage
on brown and get approx 12 volts BUT when I test the Green wire going out I get 11 Volts. same at the positive brush . I loose a full Volt ! My ground is good to Reg (zero ohms) .I have already tested and confirmed that
battery voltage and the brown wire to Reg (Reg not connected) is same voltage. Im losing approx .03 Volts.
Im stumped. 5T u have the same Reg on a 78 I think with separate Rec, if u test green and brown at Reg with everything connected and running what voltage do u get in and out. The New Reg is working same as old unit, if I raise rpm to approx 2500 it will read
14.2 volts at battery and go no higher, u can see it cut voltage back as soon as it gets to a certain rpm. Is it possible that the Reg is putting out a lower voltage until it sees the battery is at
full charge, reaching here.
I think if I leave it this way ,im going to damage new rotor !
on brown and get approx 12 volts BUT when I test the Green wire going out I get 11 Volts. same at the positive brush . I loose a full Volt ! My ground is good to Reg (zero ohms) .I have already tested and confirmed that
battery voltage and the brown wire to Reg (Reg not connected) is same voltage. Im losing approx .03 Volts.
Im stumped. 5T u have the same Reg on a 78 I think with separate Rec, if u test green and brown at Reg with everything connected and running what voltage do u get in and out. The New Reg is working same as old unit, if I raise rpm to approx 2500 it will read
14.2 volts at battery and go no higher, u can see it cut voltage back as soon as it gets to a certain rpm. Is it possible that the Reg is putting out a lower voltage until it sees the battery is at
full charge, reaching here.
I think if I leave it this way ,im going to damage new rotor !
Well, as I said before.. I've not used the VR-115 so I'm not familiar with it. I don't think you'll hurt the new rotor. The important part is that the reg senses batt voltage correctly. Judging by it topping out at 14.2, I'd say you're OK. Maybe someone else can chime in here who's familiar with the VR-115 and it's normal output to the rotor.
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XS650D
XS650 Junkie
k Thx Jim,im kind nervous about riding it now after 3 rotors in a row!
Think I will wait until I get a confirmed answer on the VR-115.
Think I will wait until I get a confirmed answer on the VR-115.
I was looking for my post an wiring in a VR-115 and the links..............Dam sure i posted in this thread............Found it in your other thread about this yesterday......
Read Retiredgentlemans posts
Here is a link to a search on VR-115 that retiredgentleman done to his bike seven years ago. He swore by it and had no problems..........some links are up to 2017. He isn't on here any more........A very respected X member who done some big rides in Canada
http://www.xs650.com/search/33734495/?q=VR115&o=relevance&c[user][0]=288
Might help you feel more confident
Read Retiredgentlemans posts
Here is a link to a search on VR-115 that retiredgentleman done to his bike seven years ago. He swore by it and had no problems..........some links are up to 2017. He isn't on here any more........A very respected X member who done some big rides in Canada
http://www.xs650.com/search/33734495/?q=VR115&o=relevance&c[user][0]=288
Might help you feel more confident
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
Just did a short ride and tested positive brush and get 10.2 Volts!! (Running at idle)
I dont think that can be correct.
I dont think that can be correct.
Have you gone completely through the loom, (continuity/resistance), from back to front, or front to back, and checked every wire and connection and checked every switch
I don't think that's really a valid check because that changes depending on system demand. For instance, a low battery would demand more from the alternator... so the reg. would be sending more voltage to the rotor to supply that demand. Same with lights... more lights, more demand... more power to the rotor. Less demand = less power to the rotor.
Give us 4 readings...
1. Batt voltage with key off
2. Batt voltage with key on
3. Batt voltage at idle
4. Batt voltage at 2500-3000 rpm.
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
#1 12.69 Volts
#2 12.6 Volts ,slowly drops and stabilizes to 12.2 Volts
#3 12.55 Volts (idle 1300 rpm bike warm)
#4. 14.2 Volts 2500 to 3000 rpm
Note: Headlight is on when running.
Gone thru Loom, checked all grounds I could find, everything good in headlight bucket.
Tested Rec running on all whites 10.5 AC .
Note: New Voltage LED reads .3 Volts less than battery .
#2 12.6 Volts ,slowly drops and stabilizes to 12.2 Volts
#3 12.55 Volts (idle 1300 rpm bike warm)
#4. 14.2 Volts 2500 to 3000 rpm
Note: Headlight is on when running.
Gone thru Loom, checked all grounds I could find, everything good in headlight bucket.
Tested Rec running on all whites 10.5 AC .
Note: New Voltage LED reads .3 Volts less than battery .
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Well, with the caveat that it's never easy working long distance... 
... I'd say those numbers are good. 12.2 to 12.5 at idles means it's charging at idle.
14.2 at speed is a tad low but still a good number...At least we're not overcharging... which is a rotor killer. Provided you've eliminated the voltage drops (and it appears you have), I'd say you're good.
Fwiw... I believe my rotors are much more robust than the Chinese knockoffs you toasted.... maybe even as good as factory.
... I'd say those numbers are good. 12.2 to 12.5 at idles means it's charging at idle.14.2 at speed is a tad low but still a good number...At least we're not overcharging... which is a rotor killer. Provided you've eliminated the voltage drops (and it appears you have), I'd say you're good.
Fwiw... I believe my rotors are much more robust than the Chinese knockoffs you toasted.... maybe even as good as factory.
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
Jim,i like your positive thinking!
BUT, ive always read on this forum that there should be 12 volts or close to battery voltage at positive brush .
With my limited electrical knowledge it would seem that if the ground to the Reg is good and
the Voltage to the Reg is good (same battery voltage) it should produce at least 12 Volts out the other side on the green.
Does the Reg operate by just turning on and off or does it actually increase or decrease the voltage
based on what it sees coming in on the brown. After more reading it appears that on pre 1980 the voltage is
regulated before going to Alternator and post 1980 its regulated after the Alternator .As long as the vr-115 is a pulsing style Reg like the original then the brushes are grounded via the black wire. Im assuming that I have the correct
Reg for my 77. Not sure if its the wrong type or could that cause the weird low readings. I cant find any posts
to state what happens if wrong type is used.
BUT, ive always read on this forum that there should be 12 volts or close to battery voltage at positive brush .
With my limited electrical knowledge it would seem that if the ground to the Reg is good and
the Voltage to the Reg is good (same battery voltage) it should produce at least 12 Volts out the other side on the green.
Does the Reg operate by just turning on and off or does it actually increase or decrease the voltage
based on what it sees coming in on the brown. After more reading it appears that on pre 1980 the voltage is
regulated before going to Alternator and post 1980 its regulated after the Alternator .As long as the vr-115 is a pulsing style Reg like the original then the brushes are grounded via the black wire. Im assuming that I have the correct
Reg for my 77. Not sure if its the wrong type or could that cause the weird low readings. I cant find any posts
to state what happens if wrong type is used.
