new to the forum, going on a big ride

gnarlybynature

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hey guys & gals,

Just registered on the forum, but I have surfed through a couple times looking for advice.
I've been riding a 1981 xs 650 for about 3 years, my first bike, and I can't get enough. I'm no mechanic but am learning as much as I can. Over the time I have had the bike I have been replacing parts as needed, and it's finally running like a real champ this summer. I am going to try to ride from Philadelphia to Denver in a couple weeks - hoping to not get into too much trouble along the way. Have done a number of 200-300 mile rides before but none like this!

replaced the pushrod in the clutch, new cables, new rear sprocket, tires and chain. Replaced oil and air filters, little rubber grommets and seals. Mechanic at my local shop cleaned out the carbs, adjusted valves, cam chain and ignition points. I'm waiting for some parts in the mail to get my speedo/odometer back on track. The 'speedo clutch' in the drive of the front wheel was busted but seems like a pretty easy fix.

got some leaky fork seals that will need to be replaced, but I'm thinking I might just add oil as I go, if needed. Maybe there's someone along the way/in colorado that knows what they are doing? haha I haven't tried to take apart the forks yet. (most of the work I have been doing is on the sidewalk :shrug:)

Just wanted to give a "howdy" to the community and see if anybody has any horror stories about similar rides. :thumbsup:
 

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hey guys & gals,

Just registered on the forum, but I have surfed through a couple times looking for advice.
I've been riding a 1981 xs 650 for about 3 years, my first bike, and I can't get enough. I'm no mechanic but am learning as much as I can. Over the time I have had the bike I have been replacing parts as needed, and it's finally running like a real champ this summer. I am going to try to ride from Philadelphia to Denver in a couple weeks - hoping to not get into too much trouble along the way. Have done a number of 200-300 mile rides before but none like this!

replaced the pushrod in the clutch, new cables, new rear sprocket, tires and chain. Replaced oil and air filters, little rubber grommets and seals. Mechanic at my local shop cleaned out the carbs, adjusted valves, cam chain and ignition points. I'm waiting for some parts in the mail to get my speedo/odometer back on track. The 'speedo clutch' in the drive of the front wheel was busted but seems like a pretty easy fix.

got some leaky fork seals that will need to be replaced, but I'm thinking I might just add oil as I go, if needed. Maybe there's someone along the way/in colorado that knows what they are doing? haha I haven't tried to take apart the forks yet. (most of the work I have been doing is on the sidewalk :shrug:)

Just wanted to give a "howdy" to the community and see if anybody has any horror stories about similar rides. :thumbsup:

Points ignition on a 1981 seems odd, as they all had TCI I believe.

You should check the alternator brushes, to be sure they are at least 3/8" or longer. Also wise to confirm that the charging system is puting out 14 volts or better at 3000 to 3500 rpm.
 
On the forks, adding oil as you go along will be tough. Pulling the caps and adding oil is not easy as it sounds. Adding the right amount is the tough part. Better to replace the seals now.
There are several references on "How To" on here. You will need special tools but are easy to make.
Leo
 
hey retiredgentleman,
thanks for the tips. Brushes seem pretty good, got about 3/8" on the money. I did replace the stator early on when I got the bike, so I'm thinking that it should be good. Passed the "slap test" as ggGary put it. I was cruising through the 'tech' sections on the site and I'm amazed at the amount of info available. You guys are killing it.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the power goes from the stator, to the regulator and then to the battery. So where would I want to hold the ohm meter to get 14 volts? should this be as the current leaves the stator or after it leaves the alternator? The electrical systems leave me scratching my head sometimes.

also, xsleo,
I know you are right about the fork seals. I added oil last week and it was a bit difficult. Gonna try to get to those seals if I can squeeze it in. Looks like there is a good section on the site here with pictures (totally great) on cutting fork springs that dissects the whole process. all i need to know and then some!
 
hey retiredgentleman,
thanks for the tips. Brushes seem pretty good, got about 3/8" on the money. I did replace the stator early on when I got the bike, so I'm thinking that it should be good. Passed the "slap test" as ggGary put it. I was cruising through the 'tech' sections on the site and I'm amazed at the amount of info available. You guys are killing it.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the power goes from the stator, to the regulator and then to the battery. So where would I want to hold the ohm meter to get 14 volts? should this be as the current leaves the stator or after it leaves the alternator? The electrical systems leave me scratching my head sometimes.

also, xsleo,
I know you are right about the fork seals. I added oil last week and it was a bit difficult. Gonna try to get to those seals if I can squeeze it in. Looks like there is a good section on the site here with pictures (totally great) on cutting fork springs that dissects the whole process. all i need to know and then some!

Buy new brushes, those are now too short. I actually replace my brushes when they get down to about 0.400".

Set you VOM to 20 volt scale. Connect the meter leads to the battery terminals. The power comes from the stator to the rectifier, and from there splits to the battery and to the loads on the bike.

You read the voltage at the battery, and if its OK the bike will be fine, unless things such as the ignition switch/kill switch/fuse holders have not been cleaned in 30+ years.
 
The stator does not pass or fail the slap test, the rotor does.
The battery supplies the power the rotor uses to create a magnetic field. This magnetic field spins inside the stator. As the magnetic field passes through the windings in the stator, electrical power is created .
Being a three phase alternator this electrical power is AC. This AC flows out of the stator on the three white wires to the rectifier where a set of diodes convert this AC to DC.
Now this DC flows to the battery where it charges the battery and through the battery powers the bike.
The regulator reads the battery voltage on the brown wire. If the voltage is low the reg turns on the power to the rotor, which makes the stator put our power. When the voltage reaches the correct level it shuts of the power to the rotor.
It cycles the power on/off to keep the battery at the right voltage.
So for test the charging system output you always test at the battery. If it's not right at the battery then more testing needs to be done.
Brushes wear shorter, as they wear the springs that push them against the rotor get weak. This cause a weak connection between the brushes and rotor. This prevents full current flow through the rotor, causing weak charging. Brushes aren't expensive, Change them, it may be all you need.
Leo
 
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