New XS in Michigan

curt698

XS650 Addict
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Lake Orion, MI
Hi guys. For Christmas (Dec 2nd, I got early) I received a '71 xs650 with a 750 bore already done. The bike was actually repo-ed by a friend of my Dads in 1974. This guy liked the bike so he bought it from the bank and started to tear into it. He did the big bore and fitted carbs from a 750 twin. Then he painted the tank, side covers, cafe fender (front), cafe seat, and cafe fairing. Once all that was done he got side tracked and never touched the bike again. So now I have a '71 that has not been started since he did the engine in '74. It has 3400 miles on it and is in pretty decent shape. So far I have lined up forks and trees from an '80 and a wheel with dual disks and the brakes to match. My project stalled due to the hollidays and trying to figure out the best may to make the '80 front end fit the 71 frame. I have decided to weld a spacer to the top of the neck and seat the bearings in the spacer. By going this route I dont have to machine the stem at all.

Pics:

DSC00159.jpg


DSC00156.jpg


current progress:wtf:
P1010116.jpg
 
- what is the difference between the early and later triple tree shafts? - are the early shafts shorter? - if i remember correctly the early headstock is a little shorter...although the earlier triples are 34mm the bearings are the same for all models
- im not sure if there is a difference in the steering lock
- if there is a difference you could swap shafts, press the shafts out of the respective triple trees and set the early shaft into the later trees - weld the underside up
 
Couple of problems with the stem swap. 1 the bottom of the 71 has a collar for lack of a better term that is about 2inches in diameter. That collar is welded to the tree so all that metal would have to come off. 2 the top tree has a completely different thread patern and nut. The 71 has a steering dampener set up that is knid of funky.

Pics:
71 next to 80
P1010118.jpg


close up of height, thread difference
P1010121.jpg


Additional view of the 71 trees
P1010113.jpg
 
- yes, a picture is worth a thousand words, certainly is more reliable than my recoil
- making a spacer is probably easiest
 
- but might be easier to make a spacer for the bottom

That was my original plan but on both of the other boards suggested that there is greater stress on the bottom of the stem/trees and placing the spacer below could cause the bike to be weaker. Also a spacer below the neck moves the tapered portion of the neck down and also causes more weakness in that regard.

When I go home for lunch I'll post my rough design for a spacer.
 
My other option is to press out the 80 stem and put it on a lathe, trim off some metal so that the top bearing would seat correctly. Extend the threads down and then use the top nut and dampener from the 71. Problem with that plan is that I don't know anyone with a lathe and without burning a favor it could get pricey fast.
 
- these arent racing bikes and i should imagine that raking and extending forks as done in choppers are likely to be weaker

- however if you are that concerned why not turn down the stem and rethread it
 
I would be very intrested in any front end parts ( or any parts for that matter) you have left over from the 71.
Ill be restoring one in the near future and I'm in the process of collecting parts.

Even though I'm a beliver in keeping the early bikes stock,
I think your bike looks very cool! Love the cafe seat.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
Let me know if you want to get rid of any parts.
Ride safe - Tom
Good
 
Tom,
Right now I have the trees and a fender that needs TLC everything else has been sold to help fund the project.

Here is a rough idea for my spacer:
spacerdesign1.jpg


fender pic for Tom
P1010110.jpg
 
- Tom, i kind of agree with you about the early models, just didnt want to hold back Curts fun..i like the bike as it is, yes guys even the colour, the seat is the bit i personally didnt like - cant get a good look at the exhaust but it looks looong, might just be the shadow and my old eyes though
 
- would you put in an internal stop for the bearing race?...

edit - sorry i see thats the 15,6..why do you think this would need to be welded in? and not made from alu?...compression from the locknuts should hold it in place, no?
 
- would you put in an internal stop for the bearing race?...

edit - sorry i see thats the 15,6..why do you think this would need to be welded in? and not made from alu?...compression from the locknuts should hold it in place, no?

Well if enough people agree that alum and compression would work I'd roll with it. I'm trying to make sure my bike is safe so my only hazards are the road, other drivers, my own low IQ.
 
BTW, I know how people feel about the early XS and restoration. The whole point of getting this bike for me was to do a cafe BUT I have made sure not to chop anything and I have sold the stock parts to people doing restorations. Hope that helps take some of the sting out of my bastardizing a 71.
 
- billet alu should be strong enough not to deform and the bearing should deal with the rotational forces when the locknuts are set

- substitute experience and EQ for IQ and the rest is going to be mostly other road-users:D

- not bastardising but personalising:thumbsup:
 
I'd use steel if they didn't charge that much more for machining time, but a high grade aluminum should work. The cost for the alum might outweigh the machining time on the steel. :shrug: I'd quote both and make your decision from there. Even if you go steel, I wouldn't worry about welding it in.

Glad to hear your parts are going to good homes. All those other nice potential restorations need parts too right? :cool:
 
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