All kidding aside, the first suggestion I have is to throw away the cable that comes in the kit. If yours is anything like the one I got then it is a headache, bordering on dangerous. I was not able to properly sync the carb slides because there is so much slop in the cable splitter and ends. On top of that, it was so poorly machined that the throttle would stick both when pulling and letting off. You will hear guys say how critical it is to route the cable properly. This is because the OD of the cable housings are too small for the ID of the adjusters. If you move, budge or bump the cable housings it will throw off the cable sync. With a good cable, it is still best to run the cable beneath the backbone between the motor mounts, but it won't be sensitive to movement like the Mike's cable.
The first step in setting the cables is to make sure there is free-play at the throttle housing and carbs. This is done by grabbing the cable housing and moving it in and out feeling how far it will move before the cable inside moves. Start with about 1/8" movement. If using the Mike's cable, don't mistake the side-to-side movement as free-play, it needs to go in and out.
Turn the air screws in until they gently seat then turn them out 1-1/2 turns.
Hook up a mercury manometer then fire the engine. Adjust the slide stops so that the manometer reads even and the idle is about 1200 rpm. Then crack the throttle just a hair. You want the throttle open as little as possible but with the slides resting on the cables and not the slide stops. Adjust the cable adjusters at the tops of the carbs so that the manometer reads even. It's usually best to turn in the adjuster on the low cylinder so that you are not eliminating the free-play of the cable. When you have the cables adjusted, let it back down to idle and verify that the idle is still in sync and that you still have free-play at the cable ends.
Turn the air screws in and out to get the highest vacuum reading. Turn them both equally about 1/4 turn at a time, waiting several second between each adjustment for the engine to stabilize. You may need to readjust the slide stops as you do this to keep it running at the same speed.
When you find the setting that gives max vacuum, shut off the engine then turn the air screws in, counting the turns. It should be between 1 and 2 turns. If it is less than one turn, then the pilot (slow jet) is too small. If it is over two turns then the pilot is too big. Replace the pilots and repeat the steps above. If you are between 1 and 2 then set the needles back where you had them and move on.
Once you have the pilots and air screws set to get max vacuum at idle then you are done with them. Any other low speed tuning is done with the jet needles. The carbs come with JJH needles. The J and J represent the taper and length and actually seem right for this setup. The last letter is the diameter of the straight part of the needle.
The taper mostly effects the mixture around 3/4 throttle.
The length effects it from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. When you change the clip position you are changing the length. If you run out of clip positions and need to move the needle further then you get the next length needle. Each letter represents about 2 clip positions.
The diameter effects it below 1/4 throttle. Almost all of the tuning I had to do to these carbs was changing needle diameters. A higher letter means a thicker (leaner) needle. I suggest you buy at least the JJK, JJM, JJQ needles (2 of each). That is every other needle, there is one size below, above, and between each. With these three you should be able to pinpoint the best size. If one is too rich and the next too lean then get the one between them.
The diameter is mainly for the transition off of idle. If, when you open the throttle from idle, it cuts out like you hit the kill switch then it is too lean and you need a thinner needle (lower letter). More than likely though, it is going to blubber and stumble which means too rich. In which case you need a fatter needle (higher number).
The length (clip position) effects it in the cruising range. If it surges at cruise or hesitates when you roll on it to pass then it may be too lean. If it's lean then you shorten the needle (move the clip down which raises the needle). If it's stumbling, bogging or fouling plugs then its probably too rich. If it's rich then you lengthen the needle (move the clip up which lowers the needle).
Change the main jet for best full throttle performance. When setting the main jet it helps if you can find a deserted road with a long hill so you can hold it at full throttle for an extended time. After holding it at full throttle for as long as possible, pull in the clutch, let off the throttle and hit the kill switch all at the same time. Come to a stop then pull the plugs and look at them. If it's white then it's too lean and you need larger jets. If it's black then it's too rich and you need smaller jets.
