No Power With New Battery

[SpongeBobbed]

Hi There,

1980 special that I've changed up a bit to look more like a quasi cafe.

It was leaking like crazy so I took everything apart to put in new seals and gaskets and while I was at it I put in some new parts (brass swingarm bushings, new sprockets, wheel bearings, fenders, etc.) and I did some painting (mags, calipers, light housing, forks, etc.).

Anyways, I put everything back together and when I turned the key I got nothing.

Here's all the info I have that I think could help find the solution:

- put a new battery in. Just a normal 12v from Canadian Tire. Trickle charged it last night and when I tested it in the bike I got 12.6 v.

- I was getting power before I took the bike apart

- the only electrical components I messed with was the alternator when I removed it to change the main oil seal. I put it back exactly how
I had taken it apart and followed the video that is posted in the tech section.

- I powder coated the front forks, and the rear fender (got a new black front fender from
Mikes)

- I plasti-dipped the light housing, housing tabs that come off the forks and the top of the forks (between the triple trees). I hate the stuff but wanted to black out that little bit for now until I take it apart this winter for proper powder coat.

- fuses look good and I didn't change any connections except for the neutral light connection near the cam chain housing.

Does anyone have any thoughts??
I know there is a bunch of threads on this but I thought someone might see this and have a brilliant solution as to what the hell I screw up.

Thanks!!

 

[retiredgentleman]

Do you by any chance still have the original stock fuse holders, with glass fuses? Looking good means nothing with those fuse holders/fuses. You need to use a VOM to measure voltage on both sides of fuses. If you have them, replace with automotive blade type fuse holders.

Was the new battery a wet type lead acid? If so they need to be charged for 10 hours after the acid is added.

Check for the 12.6 volts at the main 20 amp fuse, then at the other 3 fuses (both sides).

 

[SpongeBobbed]

Do you by any chance still have the original stock fuse holders, with glass fuses? Looking good means nothing with those fuse holders/fuses. You need to use a VOM to measure voltage on both sides of fuses. If you have them, replace with automotive blade type fuse holders.

Was the new battery a wet type lead acid? If so they need to be charged for 10 hours after the acid is added.

Check for the 12.6 volts at the main 20 amp fuse, then at the other 3 fuses (both sides).

Thanks RG. I do have the glass fuses. I bought the blade type fuses a while ago and haven't put them in yet so I guess now is as good a time as any to put them in. I didn't check the voltage on the fuses when I tested the battery so I'll do that now. I have the VOM from princess auto. Not the super cheap one but not the crazy expensive one either. Is there a specific setting I need to put it in to check the fuses?

You could be right about the battery. Is it a wet lead type. I only charged it for about 4 hours so that could be the issue. When I hooked it up to the bike I hooked my tail light right into it and it worked so I figured the battery would be fine.

Anyways, I'll do what you've proposed and let you know how it works out. Thanks!!

 

[SpongeBobbed]

Hi RG,

Just wanted to let you know that your suggestions worked. I put the battery on the tender for another few hours and it started right up! Haven't put the new fuses in yet but I will later tonight. Thanks!

 

[retiredgentleman]

Hi RG,

Just wanted to let you know that your suggestions worked. I put the battery on the tender for another few hours and it started right up! Haven't put the new fuses in yet but I will later tonight. Thanks!

You're on the right track now! However, that's not the best way to give a battery its initial charge. It would have been better, for the battery, if its first charge had been at least 10 continuous hours. At this time, you should still charge the battery for another 6 to 8 hours.

 

[XSLeo]

On a wet lead acid battery that short initial charge time will limit the battery from reaching it's full potential. It may never get more than about 75% of it's intended charge. Seeing as you haven't run it much doing a full charge now may be ok.
On the charger you used, does it have indicator lights to show how the charge is doing?
The ones I use do. A red light to show it's plugged in the wall, a yellow for charging, a green for fully charged. Always weight for the green light.
Also the charger should be about one tenth the batteries amp/hour rating. The stock battery is about 14 A/H, one tenth is 1.4 amp charge rate. Most motorcycle battery chargers are 1 or 1.5 amp.
Charging at a higher rate can overheat the battery, warping the plates and shorting the battery.
Using a car charger at 10 or 15 amps does this. Car chargers often rely on internal resistance to balance charge voltage. Small batteries won't have enough so the voltage is too high as well as the amps. This high voltage, over about 14 .5 can boil the water out of the battery.
Most batteries come with instructions on how to fill with acid and charge the battery. The have shortened the times some what. Used to be you filled the battery and let it set overnight to let the plates absorb the acid, then topped them up. Now you only wait an hour.
On charging they recommend 16 to 18 hours, now it's 4 hours.
I doubt the batteries have changed much since then, but with shorter times you need to replace batteries more often so they can make more money.
I still do it the old way. It may take longer but I get better battery performance.
That is with conventional batteries. I have been getting AGM batteries the last few times I replace a battery, I still make sure to fully charge them before I install them.
Being a sealed battery I don't have to worry about battery acid getting all over the bike or constantly adding distilled water. Getting lazy I guess.
Leo