Oil Change

Hosk Engineering

Hosk Engineering
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I put together a bunch of images I am using to make my own oil change reference so I thought it would be best to just post it here to share. Im using a bunch of borrowed references and images so hopefully I dont offend anyone. Just grabbed a bunch of information I put together from all over and wanted to consolidate it all in one location.

OIL REPLACEMENT AND FILTER CLEANING

1. Gather proper tools and materials:

Materials:
a. Filter Element (screen)
b. Basic requirements for an oil change:
c. Oil Filter Screen
d. Sump Oil Filter Strainer Plate Gasket
e. Sump oil filter
f. Drain plug washers (2 packs so you have extras on hand for future use)
g. Sump plate gaskets (several uses then replace)
c. Screen filters (it's nice to have an extra so you can swap a clean one in at oil changes.
d. If the old sump filter is torn consider repairing it.

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2. Place an oil pan under the engine.

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There are two large drain plugs (They are 27mm)on the bottom of the motor.

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3. Remove the drain plugs and drain the oil.

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Note: Because this is my first oil change and the bike has sat for 20 to 25 years Im filtering the oil
4. Filter the oil through a coffee filter
--Look for pieces of black plastic from the cam chain guide, it will need replacing
--Also ALU pieces, normally cam chain hitting the case,
--Large bits may be 5th main gear or 3rd pinion gear dogs
--Crank bearing cage pieces have been found

REMOVE THE SUMP OIL FILTER
--The sump filter is the "rock" catcher.
--It stops chunks rubber that escape from the cam chain guides and other bits that could get into the system.
--If you are familiar with automobiles, it compares to the screen on the oil suction tube inside oil pans.

1. Remove the 6, 10mm bolts holding the plate

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NOTE:
I plan on replacing my sump filter since it is so old but most people should just have to clean them.
--There are a lot of repair and modification suggestions out there as well.

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2. Remove from the plate

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3. Clean the filter
--Any kind of solvent or even gasoline can be used to soak the strainers (filters).

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4. Re-install the sump filter

NOTE:
Don't exceed 7 ft-lbs when you reinstall the sump plate.

FILTER ELEMENT (SCREEN)

1. The filter screen performs the final filtering and is located behind the little cover in the right engine case.

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2. Remove the filter cover and oil filter securing bolt.

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3. Slip the filter element (screen) out and clean.

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4. Clean Filter

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5. Install the filter and filter cover.
--Filter torque: I 1.0 m-ko f7 f&lb)

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FINAL STEPS

1. Reinstall the drain plugs. (Make sure it is tight.)

--Drain plug torque: 4.4 m-kg (32 ft-lb)

2. Add oil through the dip stick hole.

Oil quantity:
2.0 lit (2.1 qt): periodic oil change
2.5 lit (2.6 qt): engine overhauling

Here are some choices for oil:
Yamalube 4-cycle oil or SAE 20W/40 type “SE” motor oil (from the manual)
20w50 or 20w40 should work fine too. (people use diesel oil because it has higher levels of detergents similar to what all oils used to have decades ago)
I have heard that 20/50 castrol is a good choice because it works on the engine, forks and even the chain
Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel oil (15/40 is not "thick stuff".most people use 20W50 motorcycle oil)

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I also included these Oil Flow diagrams I found to show how it all flows.

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Don't overtighten those 10mm sump plate screws :D Trust me, it is NOT fun having to tap one of those!
 
Good plan, show us what you find.


Related pics

sumpoilfilters.jpg

tappets 003.jpg

stock filter typical condition
mikes filter with added "oil sling protection"

xs 012.JPG

"over the top" side filter cover removal tool.
 
All I will add is DO NOT use any gasket sealer on the cover gaskets or you will have a very hard time getting them off next time. Some grease the gaskets or coat them with anti-seize. I just oil mine with plain motor oil.
 
I know this is a dumb question but Im new and being over cautious. Im also coming from mostly the car and newer bike world.

For these older style filters (both top oil and bottom sump) do you replace with each oil change or clean? I honestly haven't heard of cleaning an oil filter, so what type of degreaser or solvent are you using? Replacing the sump would be costly as its 33 bucks adn I get the impression its main purpose is a "rock" catcher so cleaning should be fine. (correct me if Im wrong)

Thanks!

FYI...I just bought the bike and will be getting it in a week I also have a manual on order so please be patient. I just wanted to have all the goodies for an oil change ready.

So i will need
1) Oil filter (top one)
2) Sump filter (bottom one)
3) Sump plate gasket (is this the correct one 11: GASKET,STRNR COVER 1160210) from bike bandit diagram
4) 2 drain plug washers
5) Oil ( i dont want to get into an oil disuccsion I have read enough to know what I want to use)

Is there anything else I am missing? If I look at the diagram on bike bandits it looks like there is a oil filter gasket too (the top oil filter), I have tried to search if that's needed but no luck?

Sorry to high jack but since this was intended for newbies I figured my questions would help all.

Thanks!
 
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Both the upper and lower units are filtering screens, not paper elements, so they get cleaned unless they are unserviceable. Also a good reason for much more frequent oil changes than you would typically do.
The gasket on the side filter generally has a pretty good life, but if you tear one, you should replace it.
Another tip, if you are the first one to pull the sump filter, it can take a considerable amount of effort to get all the metal mud off the INSIDE of the magnet!
 
Why should we pay for it to the mechanic, when we can change it ourself. Thanks for your post. It was so easy for me to change oil of my bike.
 
My go to cleaner is paint thinner in a spray bottle. The cheapo windex bottle pumps don't like paint thinner and will die in a week or so. I found one brand of my wife's horse fly spray uses good pumps that last and a hand pump bottle made by Hudson holds up excellent.

product-photo-4f33e9b627798.png

The wide base keeps it from tipping over as often!

While looking for that picture I found this...

product-photo-512cdf6683ce1.png


I want one!
 
So what solvent product are you all using to actually clean the filters?

Mostly kerosene because that's what I use for chain cleaning too. It's easy on my hands, and it smells nice.:) I don't know that I've ever changed the drain plug gaskets. That doesn't make it right, but I wonder how often most people do.

Philip
 
The drain plug washers are crush washers like on a spark plug. Tighten them several times and they're used up, all crushed out. You'll know when you can't get the plugs out next time, lol. I recently helped a new guy with an oil change. The bike seemed well taken care of and fairly low mileage (12K) but the P.O. obviously never changed those drain plug washers. Both plugs were stuck big time. I had to impact them out and it took nearly a minute of impacting to break each plug free. There was also no gasket under the side filter cover. The (idiot) P.O. just gooped Yamabond in there. Yes, it leaked.
 
The drain plug washers are crush washers like on a spark plug. Tighten them several times and they're used up, all crushed out. You'll know when you can't get the plugs out next time, lol. I recently helped a new guy with an oil change. The bike seemed well taken care of and fairly low mileage (12K) but the P.O. obviously never changed those drain plug washers. Both plugs were stuck big time. I had to impact them out and it took nearly a minute of impacting to break each plug free. There was also no gasket under the side filter cover. The (idiot) P.O. just gooped Yamabond in there. Yes, it leaked.

He could have tried running a bead of caulk around the outside of the cover.:) How about using Teflon washers for the drain plug gasket? Teflon seems to work well with automotive plugs, and doesn't require replacement.
 
That may work. You need something soft to seal and also not allow the plug to get too tight. Once that original copper crush washer is all flattened out, it's not much better than a steel washer. The Athena full gasket set that Mike's sells comes with a couple of those red bakelite washers for the drain plugs which work very well and can be reused multiple times.
 
That may work. You need something soft to seal and also not allow the plug to get too tight. Once that original copper crush washer is all flattened out, it's not much better than a steel washer. The Athena full gasket set that Mike's sells comes with a couple of those red bakelite washers for the drain plugs which work very well and can be reused multiple times.

For sure 5twins. I've been using those bakelite washers on my drain plugs for 4 or 5 years now. I keep using the same ones over and over, torque to 40 ft-lbs, and never any leakage. Removal of plugs is very easy.

I wish I new where to buy a few more of them, in case my existing ones start to fail.
 
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