oil filter

I must say, this has been an interesting topic to read through. The bottom line is if you change your oil and filters/strainers every 1000 miles or 1700 kms , then bad things will not happen to your engine.

I have been using the sump strainer from Mikesxs for the last 4 years and it works great. I only drive about 1700 kms per year. I remove the sump plate/strainer, clean the strainer with a solvent and put it back in. With its extra backing for strength its doing a fine job, and I see no indication of the mesh being damaged.

I also use the Heiden Oil filter/cooler from Mikesxs. Each year I replace the paper filter which is made in Tiawan. Its also doing its job, with no problems.

I always warm the engine up at idle speed before riding. Probably not a smart thing to start the engine and immediately rip off down the road. Might just rip the mesh in the sump strainer.

Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Well, just a couple of points. I removed the bypass ball and spring in the side screen and screwed a threaded stud in its place, so I have no pressure bypass, but I do have a pressure gage. My reasoning here was that the bypass valve would open at the worst possible time. IE: when there is a load of junk in the the oil coming from the pump that plugs up the screen. I would see the increase in oil pressure and shut down in that case. If you have a bypass valve, the crap oil would continue to circulate until the engine came to a noisy halt due to severe pluggage in the oil galleys themselves. I think that Yamaha's reasoning was to prevent oil starvation in the event of a screen blockage, but I think they didn't think the problem to its logical conclusion.

The other reason I removed the bypass valve is because I have not found a procedure to calibrate the by pass. The system is a nominal 14 PSI system, but I only see 14 or more PSI when the engine is cold.

Now that I do not have a bypass valve, but I do have a pressure gage, I see the pressure go as high or higher than 20 PSI on a cold start, so even though the bypass operates on differential pressure, I would think that 20 + PSI absolute could produce 14 PSI differential, and open the bypass when you first start, especially not knowing just what pressure the valve does open. Could be lower than 14 PSI.

The other reason for removing the bypass valve is to reduce the flow on initial cold startup. By not having a bypass valve that could potentially open, the flow is reduced through the sump screen so it is less likely that the sump screen will be torn by excessive flow. I removed the bypass on my '78/E back in 1997 at the same time that I replaced the sump screen with a factory screen before the reinforced screens were available. The bike had about 20,000 miles on it in '97. I just recently retired the bike with 80,000 + miles on it and the sump screen was not torn. That's 60,000 miles without tearing the screen, so I have to think that removing the bypass had something to do with it, along with monitoring the oil pressure on initial cold startup.

Now, along with all of these theories comes another point. The filter element used in the bolt on oil filter adapter is a Honda filter that has a built in bypass valve that opens around 7 PSI differential, so I am more than certain that that bypass does open on initial start up.

Here's a pic of my '81/H "Cockpit" showing the gage:

cockpit4.jpg


(What's missing in the picture?)
 
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Pete i understand your reluctance to have unfilterd oil circulating in your engine but to me blocking the bypass valve is like wrapping an electrical fuse in tinfoil and relying on your ammeter to tell you their is a problem
 
donald,

Well, except as I said above, the bypass does not really protect the engine when a bunch of junk plugs up the side screen. The dirty oil continues to flow past the bypass through the engine, so your fuse analogy does not really fit this case.

If a blockage does occur, you have plenty of time to see the oil pressure rise before any damage happens to the engine.
 
I know its off this topic but i just built an engine for a friend and used your ignition system.He is very pleased with it . Are you still happy with mikes keihn carb kit I am considering it for my own bike
 
Pete,
I was just about to say you need to go back to what you do best and leave the oiling to someone else until I read this:

Now, along with all of these theories comes another point. The filter element used in the bolt on oil filter adapter is a Honda filter that has a built in bypass valve that opens around 7 PSI differential, so I am more than certain that that bypass does open on initial start up.

Substituting an internal bypass for a replaceable bypass means the bypass is far less likely to get gunked up and stick open or closed. Genius! That's what the factory should have done in the first place.
 
I know its off this topic but i just built an engine for a friend and used your ignition system.He is very pleased with it . Are you still happy with mikes keihn carb kit I am considering it for my own bike

Yes, I am. I did install Mikes Commando Style Megaphone Mufflers, however, as I was experiencing some breakup with open throttle. Mike does say that the Keihin carbs work best with a freer flowing exhaust, and I found that to be the case. However, the performance is really startling. The bike leaps forward when you open the throttle(s). Love the sound of the carbs sucking in all that air!
 
Has anybody seen this setup? Is it any good?View attachment 400
Although I'm putting forward controls on, and the filter might get in the way.


Does anyone know which filters fit the thru the clutch cover spin-on-kit? All the numbers listed at 650Central are their own numbers and do not cross over.

I'm asking because I got my hands on an 650Central kit that was missing the filter.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Does anyone know which filters fit the thru the clutch cover spin-on-kit? All the numbers listed at 650Central are their own numbers and do not cross over.

I'm asking because I got my hands on an 650Central kit that was missing the filter.

Any help would be appreciated.

650central said:
This is a common filter, used by Honda, Kawasaki and Yamaha

don't know if that helps you or not, but I also found this listing for this honda filter
 
Take your side cover off, install the kit, take ther side cover with the kit installed to the parts store, try filters till you find one that fits. Now you know which filter fits.
 
The screen on my sump filter is torn in the usual spot. Do I need to repair the torn screen if I am going to attach the homemade shield to it? I am assuming it would be a good idea, what would be the best adhesive to use to attach the new screen to the filter?
 
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7301

My filter finally tore the screen after 4 years. I just applied JB weld, but I'm not sure if that is strong enough. I will be doing an oil change in about a month, at which time I will know if the JB weld is holding. If it rips again, I'll have to use some metal or aluminum to add strength.
 

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With the JB Weld you won't need the shield.
I have been using a JB Welded filter for a few years. No problems. I went back to the stock set up after running a spin on filter on the sump plate. The filters cost to much. The patched up filter works ok. If you get the area you patch clean enough the JB Weld will hold just fine.
RG, as small as your patch is, the screen may tear more just beside the patch. On the torn stock filters I have patched I have had to cover the area from beside the magnet all the way over and around the bend at the end of the filter to cover the hole. I cut s trip of metal out of the side of a can. Your favorite beverage, a soup can, tuna fish can. Most any kind of can will work.
Leo
 
umm where is your altimeter and airspeed indicator?

cockpit4.jpg


(What's missing in the picture?)[/QUOTE]
 
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