Oil Leaks - 1978 XS Special

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Flowery Branch, Georgia. You got a problem with that?
He's my neighbor!
 
Got about 300 miles on it and did my last re-torque. Will change the oil at 500 and try the Castrol synthetic 10-60. Thoughts anyone? Been using Castrol 20-50 with a ZDDP additive. Since it doesn't leak now, I should break even on the price difference. Hmmm? Should I need the ZDDP with the synthetic oil?
 
You may be interested to read the following technical page from SmedSpeed in the UK. Just scroll down to the oil section:
http://www.smedspeed.co.uk/tech.html

He has been using the 10W-60 extended life Mobil. The 10W part interests me because it will mean less strain on the sump oil strainer in colder weather.
 
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In a recent thread the topic of engine oil thinning and how this affects getting into neutral when stationary was discussed. See the comments by TM regarding clutch performance and Bob Kelly III regarding multigrade oil degradation:

https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2012/02/13/xs650-hall-on-oil/

If you use a 10w type multigrade oil then the oil will thin towards a lower value than if you were to use a 20w type. The result is that after many miles the oil viscosity may be getting lower for the 10W types so lubrication may be suffering more than if the 20W type were used. The key to XS oil use has got to be changing it regularly. I do not know when the Mobil-1 extended life 10W60 was being changed - probably at about 1000 miles is my guess. People are suggesting 1000 - 1500 miles but based on TM's comments in the above link regarding clutch performance it seems 1000 miles is the better time to change the oil.

Perhaps you should just go for a 20W-50 motorcycle oil. The following link to "thexscafedotcom" gives a Tony Hall article:

https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/category/m-engine/motor-oil/

Edit (11/03/21): Link to Tony Hall article will not work. Instead type Tony Hall into the search facility at top left of page.

Although this covers several topics to do with lubrication/filters/cooler, in the last half of the second column he speaks about oil and suggests not to go thinner and when best to change oil versus regular or infrequent running.

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While reading about Mailman's recent topend teardown, I noticed his '72 didn't have that oil baffle in the head either. I checked some parts diagrams and they don't show it until '74, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt having one in there. There were owner complaints about too much oil coming out of the breather on some early models and this baffle may have been one of Yamaha's steps to cure that. They also reduced the amount of oil used.
 
5twins, yes , the neutral trick, I've been doing it or if you can't take your front brake off, pump the forks up and down a few times. Yes, old oil and hi temps don't help.

Also, I used the oil breather baffle from the 75 in my 72. I also used the dipstick from the 75. So far only a few drips from the breathers and the oil has not appreciably gone down.

Paul, thanks for the link. Not sure if the Mobil 10-60 is available in the US. I can get the Castrol at Advance Auto and it ain't cheap, but not sure if it has ZDDP in it like the Mobil. Did you check out Smedley's oil filter conversion?
 
I still have half a case of Green Oil (for all you tree huggers out there)..Have been wondering about the affects of high ZDDP on my newly installed Kevlar friction plates? Left over from my modified Jag.engine. At the race track, all the air cooled junkies (Porsche) use it. Green Oil Breakfast of Champions..jpg
 
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