oil pump issue

jeepguy

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so i was not getting any oil pumping up to the banjo bolts after to many kicks to count. Drained the oil took the side cover off and found that the outer pumping ring had a crack in it. Would this cause the problem. Also where can i find a replacement housing/pumping ring outer, or do i need a whole side cover? Thanks.
 
Post some pics.If I know what your talking about, Mikesxs has an Oil Pump Outer Rotor for
$16.50. But I'm thinking you would want to buy and replace the Oil Pump Rotor also.
 
Yes it would cause pressure/volume drop.
Post a want to buy ad in the classified for the pump rotors.
 
pump.jpg

Make sure your pump shaft is not bent. They get bent when people force the side cover on without allowing the gear teeth to properly engage and mesh.
 
I was planning on getting new outer/inner rotor from mikes. Shaft is not bent. What are other things to look for, for a reason of no oil flow up the feed tube, to make sure i check everything related. Thanks
 
I was planning on getting new outer/inner rotor from mikes. Shaft is not bent. What are other things to look for, for a reason of no oil flow up the feed tube, to make sure i check everything related. Thanks

The oil feed tube has an orifice in it. Have you confirmed that the orifice is not blocked?
 
Or a gear pump WILL displace the amount of fluid it can pick up and retain till it exhausts. Key here is the retain part. If the vanes(fingers) are worn or there is too much space, say like a crack, fluid will take the easiest way out. Or it may not not pick up the fluid at all because the "seal" is broken.
While these pumps don't work against significant pressure, gear pumps do have the ability to produce and maintain high pressure, think injection pump for diesels.

I wouldn't mind seeing pics if available.
 
The orifice RG mentioned is in the fitting that threads into the case that the oil line hooks to. With the line off you should be able to see the orifice.
At kicking speed it will take a long time to get oil to the head. I might remove the oil line then kick and watch to see if oil comes out the fitting. If it does then the pump is working.
But with the cracked part, that's the trouble.
Leo
 
Be VERY careful when installing the MikesXS replacement pump parts. When you install them, make 100% sure that the oil pump spins freely when you have it all buttoned up. I've had a handful of them be a bit too wide and bind up in the oil pump housing.

I also had an engine come in that the customer installed a new MikesXS oil pump inner and outer rotor on when he rebuilt it. It was bound up so tight that the woodruff key sheared when he ran it, and then he ran it for a while with no oil pressure. The oil pump, housing and side cover were completely trashed, and it did alot of damage to the engine internals as well from lack of lubrication.

So ALWAYS make sure that your oil pump is free spinning when you reassemble it... :thumbsup:
 
when i go to reinstall the new rotors how do the little triangle markings relate to install. Face in/face out pointed at each other and so on. The ones in my cover where both installed where you could not see the triangles. not sure if that is also a problem?
 
I don't think it matters. I think they are there so they both can be the same way, both pointing in or out. As far as lining them up together, they won't line up as soon as you turn the pump.
Leo
 
Based on my research, the reason why the outer oil pump rotor for sale at MikesXS bind against the pump housing is because it lacks the bevel edges of the stock one which makes the rotor rub against the inner corners of the housing. I have taken hi-def pics illustrating the difference.
IMG_0952_zps99623e4e.jpg


IMG_0948_zps51b954ae.jpg
 
Just put my new Mike's gears in....seized up. Luckily I knew better that the shaft must turn when the cover is tightened. Read this thread....filed and polished the outer rotor...back in business with new oil pump rotors. Thanks guys!
 
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