Yup, that makes sense Jim. Got lot's of oil, sale here at Canaglian Tire a week or so ago, so I stocked up. Must have saved at least 50 cents a quart....lol.
Oil change tomorrow after I get home from the Plunkett car show.
Thanks bud!
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On the road again at 40.............the bike that is
Yup, that makes sense Jim. Got lot's of oil, sale here at Canaglian Tire a week or so ago, so I stocked up. Must have saved at least 50 cents a quart....lol.
Oil change tomorrow after I get home from the Plunkett car show.
Thanks bud!
There's "fines" from ring seating that'll simply pass thru the screens. These "fines" can also deposit on the plugs, hence std plug change at 500 miles. Ring seating also produces high heat at the rings, oil has to deal with that, hence the oil changeout...
? Perhaps a slight leak at the exhaust header (at the head) ?
Despite having used a new gasket, perhaps you might want to loosen up all the exhaust mounting bolts and retorque the header pipe flange nuts.
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Good idea Dude. I did check the torque on them but didn't back them off and retorque, I'll give that a go. Thanks!
watch getting the flanges even, very easy to have them tilted.
Will do gggGary, thanks!
Raining here this aft so good time to pop in some ‘Best of Lynyrd Skynyrd’ and do the first oil change.
Nothing of note really on the drain plugs.
A little bit on the sump filter magnets.
Toothpick for scale.
Found a few pieces of plastic and some metal filings on the side filter.
However, in saying this though, I just realized in my excitement to get things back together I forgot to clean this filter before adding new oil.
So I’ll bet as the sump filter was so clean this is all left over bits pre-rebuild. What sloppy work!
That guy is Fired!
I’ll change the oil again in another 50- 100 miles just to make sure I’m right on this one.
My buddy Maxpete from Windsor smuggled this across the border for me a little while back.
Remembered these posts from 5twins and 2M:
So figured this was a good time to play with my new toy. Ran 4 - 3 minute cycles and it did a nice job,they look brand new. Blew em out with an air gun and I’ll let them air dry overnight.
Loosened and re torqued exhaust stud acorns, will see what happens now after I get it warmed up on the next ride before I start playing with carbs. Raining here now, so that will have to wait .
I am puzzled by one thing though.
Just as before the rebuild I am still at the extreme limit of adjustment on the left side points/timing plate to retard the timing enough to prevent bounce past at full advance.
The timing on the right side is nice and steady while the left still bounces around more erratically as it did before due to a stretched cam chain.
And, will occasionally bounce past the line.
Lots of adjustment room on the right side but not so on the left.
New points were installed last fall.
Advance rod was just lubed with high moly grease and weights seem to snap back just fine so I guess springs are still OK.
I guess I could remove the left points plate and enlarge the adjustment holes/slots to give me more range, but that seems like the cheating, desperate last ditch attempt by someone with a badly stretched cam chain and not a brand new one.
I would have thought that with a brand new cam chain we should be in the middle of the adjustment range on the points plates and not at the end.
Other than buy a Pamco w/E-advance, do you guys have any suggestions based on your experience as to why I’m having this problem and what to do with this?
As long as I can physically do it without limitations from mechanical issues like this, I really don’t mind adjusting points and timing.
The initial thought is always to put it off and avoid it, but then once ya get at it, it’s enjoyable and a real sense of satisfaction when things are dialed in.
Pamco is an upgrade I would do on both of my bikes eventually if required, but am hoping to stop the bleeding on this one now and direct some money to tires and a battery for Black Betty.
Any advice or insight is appreciated. Thanks Guys.
Oh and Bob, check this out eh? Was by a local surplus store today and picked up a couple of these ‘Genuine Imitation Leather' bags…..haha.
Not sure how long I can expect these $9.99 Surplus Store bags to hold together but will give it a try.
Nothing of note really on the drain plugs.
A little bit on the sump filter magnets.
Toothpick for scale.
Found a few pieces of plastic and some metal filings on the side filter.
However, in saying this though, I just realized in my excitement to get things back together I forgot to clean this filter before adding new oil.
So I’ll bet as the sump filter was so clean this is all left over bits pre-rebuild. What sloppy work!
That guy is Fired! I’ll change the oil again in another 50- 100 miles just to make sure I’m right on this one.
My buddy Maxpete from Windsor smuggled this across the border for me a little while back.
Remembered these posts from 5twins and 2M:
Excellent, never thought of that.
Next time, I'll just plop mine in the ultrasonic cleaner...
So figured this was a good time to play with my new toy. Ran 4 - 3 minute cycles and it did a nice job,they look brand new. Blew em out with an air gun and I’ll let them air dry overnight.
Loosened and re torqued exhaust stud acorns, will see what happens now after I get it warmed up on the next ride before I start playing with carbs. Raining here now, so that will have to wait .
I am puzzled by one thing though.
Just as before the rebuild I am still at the extreme limit of adjustment on the left side points/timing plate to retard the timing enough to prevent bounce past at full advance.
The timing on the right side is nice and steady while the left still bounces around more erratically as it did before due to a stretched cam chain.
And, will occasionally bounce past the line.
Lots of adjustment room on the right side but not so on the left.
New points were installed last fall.
Advance rod was just lubed with high moly grease and weights seem to snap back just fine so I guess springs are still OK.
I guess I could remove the left points plate and enlarge the adjustment holes/slots to give me more range, but that seems like the cheating, desperate last ditch attempt by someone with a badly stretched cam chain and not a brand new one.
I would have thought that with a brand new cam chain we should be in the middle of the adjustment range on the points plates and not at the end.
Other than buy a Pamco w/E-advance, do you guys have any suggestions based on your experience as to why I’m having this problem and what to do with this?
As long as I can physically do it without limitations from mechanical issues like this, I really don’t mind adjusting points and timing.
The initial thought is always to put it off and avoid it, but then once ya get at it, it’s enjoyable and a real sense of satisfaction when things are dialed in.
Pamco is an upgrade I would do on both of my bikes eventually if required, but am hoping to stop the bleeding on this one now and direct some money to tires and a battery for Black Betty.
Any advice or insight is appreciated. Thanks Guys.
Oh and Bob, check this out eh? Was by a local surplus store today and picked up a couple of these ‘Genuine Imitation Leather' bags…..haha.
Not sure how long I can expect these $9.99 Surplus Store bags to hold together but will give it a try.
Looking good Robin! Dang that’s a nice sonic cleaner you got there and it did a super job on those filters!
I like that tool roll too , looks just like the one I had.
I like that tool roll too , looks just like the one I had.
Thanks Bob.
It may look like the one you had but I am quite sure no cheapin' out by the Mailman , and yours was 'Genuine Leather'.
It may look like the one you had but I am quite sure no cheapin' out by the Mailman , and yours was 'Genuine Leather'.
never thought of filters in the ole ultrasonic, hmm What points did you put in? they are NOT all created equal.
I think the japanese points can be found, can't quite name the brand not mitsubishi, mitsumi, no hmm
Ok, thanks gggGary, I'll start searching and will also check with my OEM parts guru, maybe he can source some for me.
Hope it's that simple, that'd be nice!
Hope it's that simple, that'd be nice!
Saw some Hitachi then saw the china stamp on them....
If one cylinder is steady and one bounces.... there's only one thing it can be... the points on that side.
Ya, that make sense Jim. Dwell is set bang on on both sides.Will look for some better points. Thanks buddy!
Thanks gggGary!
sounds like this comment will be a bit late but... try swapping just condenser leads. Do you have a condenser tester? watch the points in a dark room, one set look more "sparky"? then plug wires/caps not always easy to know which part is creating the misfire but If I test a pile of old condensers about a 30% failed rate is normal. I haven't done this, but it might be interesting, point your timing light at the points see what you see....
Ok, I can try all that gggGary. Timing light at the points.......interested to see what we might see.
New condenser, wires and caps last summer.
No condenser tester per se. But I think I have tested with a multi-meter in the past?
Just looked at the boxes the points came in, saved my old ones in them. Daiichi, Made in Japan.
I have ordered another set. Can't hurt and I'll have them for either bike for the future if nothing else.
Thanks for all the tips.
New condenser, wires and caps last summer.
No condenser tester per se. But I think I have tested with a multi-meter in the past?
Just looked at the boxes the points came in, saved my old ones in them. Daiichi, Made in Japan.
I have ordered another set. Can't hurt and I'll have them for either bike for the future if nothing else.
Thanks for all the tips.
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