Overcharging issues that just won't quit!

Ok, a little update!
I got the rectifier and regulator, mounted them on a plate to go where the original combined unit would mount and the bike fired up first kick with ease.
sitting around 13.6v at a bit higher than idle... (sorry I have no tach haha) but I'm confident that it is fixed.

I'm still seeing about 1.5V less than battery voltage on the positive brush when Key On, I've read conflicting things about this though.
Some say that close to battery voltage is acceptable, other's (including curly's guide) say that battery voltage needs to be present.
I have cleaned up the wiring AGAIN, beefed up all the grounds and power cables as well.
I can't quite put my finger on it - any suggestions?

I also have a question about finding a new battery.
When looking, I'm seeing a lot of batteries in the footprint I want, but the max charge is usually 1.8amps.
Is this an issue?
Any suggestions on a small AGM battery?
 
Yes if you haven't yet a iggy switch overhaul is nearly always a good idea, but slightly lower volts at the hot brush is normal, the wires are thin, the path long and load from the rotor significant. Don't go for bigger wires, the stock wire sizing works just fine if the system is kept maintained.
 
...I'm still seeing about 1.5V less than battery voltage on the positive brush when Key On, ...

With solid-state type regulators, rotor current has to flow thru a power transistor. There'll always be some sort of voltage drop across a semiconductor, known as Vf (Forward Voltage drop).

This pic showing the two types of regulators, shows the power transistors.
The upper pic, for a type "B", shows current flows from B+, thru the transistor, to the rotor.

RegulatorTypes_SS.jpg


Voltage drop across transistors can be anywhere from 0.6v to 1.5v.
This, plus any wiring/connector/switch resistances, will add up to give you the voltage drop you're reading.

The OEM regulator is a relay type, no voltage drop across its contacts...
 
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