Paint question, Raw steel look.

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Since my budget is very limited these days, I will be painting my bike parts with rattle cans. I clearcoated the raw steel on tank and am happy with the look. I was hoping someone might have some methods to get the "raw metal" look with using paint. I hear Killer cans are great (yet pricey), I want my cafe seat to look just like my tank. The seat is fiberglass...Is it possible to achieve this? and whats the system for it? basecoat color? mirra chrome or ghost chrome??? . I've googled just about every question about this without an answer yet.... Anyone ever do something like this???... I want the raw steel look , not the shiney chrome.....Thanks in advance.
 
Is your tank shiney or rustic looking?

Cause I imagine you could achieve the look with some experimentation, although you will never actually fool anyone.

Id get some different silvers and greys and experiment with layering and sanding
 
The tank is shiney from the clear coat..and silver in color obviously from the metal, I'd post a pic, but dont have one yet..i'll take one tomorrow. Experimentation can get expensive , i wonder if i should bother, especially if it aint going to fool anyone.. That Alsa corp/ KILLER CANS makes very real looking chrome coatings. I submitted a question to them via email on how to get a more steel kook with their stuff, but i'm not a pro or a celebrity with a $500g car... so who knows??.
 
what clear did u use cause im looking for a clear to do the same thing that wont come off if gas is spilled on it
 
what clear did u use cause im looking for a clear to do the same thing that wont come off if gas is spilled on it

You need an epoxy base to avoid the gas issue. Hard to find good quality in a rattle can for epoxies though. A binary system is much better.
 
Okay, thanks guys. My seat is already made, and yes Tim ..steel would have been less expensive, but i can not weld (especially without a welder.) I rushed through the gas tank prep and experimented with a circle scuff design at the knee indents.. I should have redone it because its not balanced well..I'm going to wind up painting it , i have yet to decide on colors.... as for what i got now,my clear coat probably won't hold up to the gas very well either, as its just rustoleum crystal clear emamel (4 coats), the red is rustoleum over primer.
I guess a "binary" system paint is automotive grade urethane that gets an activator additive? Killer Cans offers this system, but for $40.00 a can, its better to just buy quarts and a spray gun .
 

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There is an engine paint sold widely in "cast Iron" With a clear over it it might give you the effect you are looking for. I used it on some cars engine parts for that.
 
Okay, thanks guys. My seat is already made, and yes Tim ..steel would have been less expensive, but i can not weld (especially without a welder.) I rushed through the gas tank prep and experimented with a circle scuff design at the knee indents.. I should have redone it because its not balanced well..I'm going to wind up painting it , i have yet to decide on colors.... as for what i got now,my clear coat probably won't hold up to the gas very well either, as its just rustoleum crystal clear emamel (4 coats), the red is rustoleum over primer.
I guess a "binary" system paint is automotive grade urethane that gets an activator additive? Killer Cans offers this system, but for $40.00 a can, its better to just buy quarts and a spray gun .
Epoxies are generally "part A and part B" Often there is no useful reducer or thinning agent. If you have a Sherwin Williams or similar paint store around, you can find stuff that works at decent prices. Epoxy based paints usually spray pretty well. You can use a PreVal sprayer to good effect with a little practice, and it's disposable, no need to buy a spray gun, which can be hit or miss on the quality of the gun and it's spraying habits, especially in the lower budget range. I know a pro aircraft painter that actually prefers his 60 dollar gun over his 200 dollar gun for shooting polyurethane, which is the most common for aircraft. Enamel paints generally will not have near the chemical resistance of epoxy or polyurethane. I'm thinking budget-wise on the epoxy, as it can be found for a good bit less than polyurethane systems.
 
if you want a great clear that won't deteriorate from gas spill check out spraymax 2K clear coat. It's a two part rattle can. You slam this tab in the bottom to activate the hardener and then have 48 hours to use it. I use it on all my builds now...and the best part is, its like $20.00 a can for an almost pro looking finish.
 
if you want a great clear that won't deteriorate from gas spill check out spraymax 2K clear coat. It's a two part rattle can. You slam this tab in the bottom to activate the hardener and then have 48 hours to use it. I use it on all my builds now...and the best part is, its like $20.00 a can for an almost pro looking finish.

COOL! That eliminates the major problem with binaries in spray cans. Thanks for sharing.
 
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