Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Jim, Dec 6, 2019.
REALLY small cup, w/lots of tungsten stick-out on TIG torch?? That's a tuffy there!
OK, so I felt on the inside and it's pushed in like a too long screw was used and poked it's way into the tank. If that's the case, I'm amazed the threads held up.
Fix it by using in a longer screw to attach the pet cap??
... or carefully cut the metal bracket off halfway up the vertical leaving the spot welds in place, MIG or TIG the hole shut, then MIG the metal bracket back in place. I would suggest JB Weld but I think a weld repair is best to prevent petrol migration up and under your new paint job.
If you had a wire welder, it would reach under the lug and on low could fill the hole. Also, a powder torch would work, but mine cost $500. It's a Victor but still. It would do the job.
I'm with Paul, it's on the top of the tank. And you can feel inside the bottom. Steel putty might do it? Welding is better.
Would the tip of a #4 cup nest in the screw hole enough to keep the tungsten from touching the sides of screw hole? Sneak in through the top and roll cup around...?
You know, If you could get the bottom of the hole kinda closed, or maybe as is, Could you clean it good, flux it and flow lead to close it? Just like fixing an old car body, nothing fancy?
Is the tank all clean inside, or is a liner going in it? If it’s getting lined, I’d use Caswell epoxy and let it fill the whole.
If not, you may have to cut a couple of spot welds, fill the hole then replace that other bit.
Fill the hole, not fill the whole.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!!
I'm leaning toward cutting/drilling the threaded bracket out of the way so I can TIG it closed. Prolly the most time consuming way... but also the most certain way of fixing it.
What do y'all think of this.... run a tap through it then thread a bolt in from the inside? Cut the bolt to just 1-2 threads and install it wet with JB Weld.. which we all know is fuel proof.
What sayeth the Borg?
Ok, If a bolt has been forced thru the tank, the hole must be cone shaped? Run the tap thru the lug then on down thru the hole. Find a short counter sunk screw and work it under the lug (maybe) and thread it into the hole. Seal it with JB or whatever. The hole is close to the top of the tank and like the cap which is vented, no liquid fuel will sit on it, so to speak, as if it were the bottom of the tank. Don't think it would be a problem. In fact the head of a cut off counter sunk screw might hold well JB'd in?
Better edit....Might tap as above. Cut off a screw shank. Slot the cut off end. JB it and thread in into the hole flush reaching down thru the lug hole to turn it.
I personally think that idea has merit. Trying to weld that hole shut on a sheet metal tank, you have an excellent chance of “ growing that hole”. Back when I was welding everyday, I had a friend that wanted me to weld a hole up in an oil tank for his Harley. Yeah....I made the hole about twice the size it started out. If I were to consider welding, I’d probably go with Greg’s suggestion of brazing it shut, low temps, easier to control, less likely to get away from you.
Having said all that, I still prefer the screw with JB Weld. My 2 cents.
Here's a trick I learned from an old master years ago.... back the hole up with a thick sheet of copper. The copper acts as a heat sink on thin sheet steel like this... and the weld won't stick to it. An almost foolproof way to fill holes in thin sheet.
Having said that... I'm warming to the idea of tapping and threading a fastener in there. I'm thinkin' I'll give that a shot first. Worst case I'll just have to break out the tigger.
+1 screw+goo...like Thuban says, top of tank not submerged...should be good
My vote is TIG it closed.
Yep, just like turning in an Allen with JB on it. Can always spread JB over the top to flush the hole. Trick might be threading the lower hole without pulling the threads outa the lug with the tap. It would be quick and lasting.
Ran a tap through it. Looks to be 1-1/2 to 2 threads. That ain't much. But as we used to say in the airplane world.... we ain't tryin' to fly it to the moon here.... It'll be enough. I'll get it all cleaned up while I figure out what kind of fastener and how I'm gonna get it in there.
Set (grub) screw?
Maybe you could run the fastener up from inside the tank with a fiber sealing washer and hold the cap hinge on with a nut ?
I'm with Beags...Cut off about 1/4 to 3/8 of a screw or bolt. Hacksaw a straight slot. Slather the lower hole with JB. Screw the cut off down thru the lug and start it into the lower hole with the JB. Smooth over the top of the slotted hoochie with a bit more JB and let it dry. Done.. It will never leak or come out. ( Unless the lug gets a longer bolt again, and even then it might stop. Not many threads in that hole. will be close.
If it is possible to start a screw from the inside of the tank, I'd be tempted to use a long nut/coupler nut, cut down to fit between the tank skin and the little bracket. Then the "plug screw" is in from the bottom, and the other screw (tank lock/latch ?) from the top. That should give a bit more strength to both.
Or make a square piece to fit snugly under the bracket, with a blind hole, threaded to M5 or M6, and solder/ braze it into place. Silver solder would definitely flow nicely, but the heat may distort the tank.
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