Painting Tins. No really...

What color should these tins be?

  • Candy green and white a la XS1

    Votes: 15 29.4%
  • Candy gold and white a la XS1

    Votes: 20 39.2%
  • Candy red and white a la XS2

    Votes: 16 31.4%

  • Total voters
    51
Is the solution here as simple as just using body filler to cover all of the little dings?
Pretty much. What I did is basically a skim coat. Bondo over an entire surface, then I'll knock it down with a semi-hard sanding block. If it were just the dings, I'd prolly just fill 'em individually, but there's a very slight amount of waviness to the flat (ish) areas. 2 birds and all that... waviness and dings all in one shot.
Everything Thu said is "spot" on... pun intended. :rolleyes: I use the 3M white acrylic putty and like Thu, normally I'd use that for a skim coat, but a few of the dings were deep enough to need the bondo. So rather than go back and forth 'tween the 2, I just did the bondo. It's kind of what past experience has told you and what tickles your fancy in the moment. ;)
Yes, I'll use a dent puller too, but when there's waviness involved, you're just kinda pissin' in the wind with it.
 
So, taking down a bondo skim coat. I said earlier to use a semi-rigid sanding block. I decided to go with a hard wood block instead 'cause of the waviness. A flexible block could follow the contours of the waviness and we'd be back to square one. So... a hard block with an aggressive paper. I used 60 grit for the initial cut. At this stage, you want to constantly change the sanding patterns. With the block lengthwise to the area, I'll do a 45° cut up and down and fore and aft for a dozen or so swipes then reverse that so you have a crosshatch pattern another dozen or so and then I'll switch to just fore and aft.... then to just up and down. Finally I'll go to a circular pattern for another dozen or so then repeat the whole process over and over until you start to see a change in color as you get close to bare metal. During all that I'll also change the block from horizontal to vertical and back. The idea here is to constantly change things so you don't sand a depression or such into the bondo. As soon as you see that color change... STOP. Now we know there's no waviness and about 90% of the bondo is laying on the floor.

bondo skim.jpg


Now it's time to switch to a semi hard block and a finer paper. I usually switch to wet sanding. I'll try either a 240 or 320 paper. But first I'm gonna finish off the other areas and then I'll put another pic up after wet sanding.
 
Looking great as usual Jim. As to xs paint, do you know if there is a good replacement paint for the Yamaha black that has the subtle gold metal flake?
I don't. A while back I sanded one down and discovered that the tank's painted black and the metal flake is added in the clearcoat.... so it shouldn't be too hard to duplicate.
 
Looks great to bad you not closer, I would send some paint work your way.
I'm 100% positive the added shipping cost would be a good investment. If I wasn't so much of a student of Jim and if I wasn't so stupidly hard headed in trying to learn to paint on my own, I'd definitely be beggin Jim to paint my tins.
 
I'm 100% positive the added shipping cost would be a good investment. If I wasn't so much of a student of Jim and if I wasn't so stupidly hard headed in trying to learn to paint on my own, I'd definitely be beggin Jim to paint my tins.

Well, I will certainly admit that I was headed that way too, but I reread Jim’s thread on his own paint job on his red Special - and I just realized that a half-baked amateur crap job by me wouldn’t hold a candle to this....
504A7383-3725-407B-BB5E-4B056ED89042.png


and this....
56F112A7-5E65-4C93-8179-6B4F632C1A3A.png
 
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