Painting Tins. No really...

What color should these tins be?

  • Candy green and white a la XS1

    Votes: 15 28.8%

  • Candy gold and white a la XS1

    Votes: 20 38.5%

  • Candy red and white a la XS2

    Votes: 17 32.7%
  • Total voters
    52
Holy crap this is hard... or maybe I'm just too ocd these days... My mind remembers striping as pretty easy 20+ yrs ago.
I've honestly lost count of the number of times I've striped the right side, decided it wasn't close enough to the other side, tore it off and started again. The silver comes in 40ft rolls. I had to order another roll. :rolleyes:
I finally had a epiphany... ordered a 150ft roll of some cheap stuff. Burned through a ton of that but it worked. Got it positioned where I wanted it and added the silver to either side of it. Hopefully get the clear on tomorrow.

pinstripe1.jpg


pinstripe2.jpg
 
Jim said:
Holy crap this is hard... or maybe I'm just too ocd these days... My mind remembers striping as pretty easy 20+ yrs ago.
I've honestly lost count of the number of times I've striped the right side, decided it wasn't close enough to the other side, tore it off and started again. The silver comes in 40ft rolls. I had to order another roll. :rolleyes:
I finally had a epiphany... ordered a 150ft roll of some cheap stuff. Burned through a ton of that but it worked. Got it positioned where I wanted it and added the silver to either side of it. Hopefully get the clear on tomorrow.

View attachment 169237

View attachment 169238
Click to expand...

It’s looking so so good Jim!
 
cra-z1 said:
Jim just do it this way. Royal Enfield
Click to expand...

The adaptability of humans to complex tasks is remarkable. That chap has a very steady hand and a good eye, although you can see a guideline which he follows for the first (wider) stripe. Nonetheless, the second narrower stripe is done freehand.

If you’ve ever seen a seamstress doing precision needlework, a potter painting a piece of pottery, a baker decorating a cake or a surgeon suturing a wound, it’s the same thing: accurate, repeatable, fast and seemingly effortless.

I’ll bet the chaiwalla stays out of the tin striping shop at Royal Enfield....
 
MaxPete said:
Ring-a-Ding Ding!!!
Click to expand...
I must admit, I have a number of addictions, and one of them (besides the XS650) is the Ring-a-Ding Ding of the 2 Stroke engine.

Here is my 1974 RD350 barn find "First Start-Up !!" in Feb. 2018 after I resusitated it over the winter months:

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So.... sprayed the clear coat Monday. To say it didn't go as planned would be an understatement. I've been so damned hoppin' mad these last 2 days... I couldn't even deal with it. So, I went down to the paint room this morning to figure out what went wrong. Here's what I've figured out...
I picked up a new batch of mixing cups a few weeks ago. I set 'em on the shelf along with the ones I already had and never gave it a second thought. Well, I just sloshed some thinner in the cup I used and here's what I see.

101.jpg



Yeah... the lacquer thinner has beaded up inside the cup. Here's one of my old cups sloshed the same way...


100.jpg



No beading... it washes across in sheets. In painting there's a test called a "water break test" or just a "sheet" test. I used to teach it in my composite class. Basically this test says that if water beads on a surface instead of "sheeting" across it, it's contaminated and requires further cleaning before repairing.
So, I grabbed another new (unused) cup and wiped my hand inside it. Here's what I get....

102.jpg



What you're looking at is some sort of release agent from when the cups were molded... probably a silicone based agent. Perhaps these were a batch that missed the cleaning step? I don't know... all I know is the silicone (?) reacted with the clear coat. Here's the result...


103.jpg


104.jpg


The clear coat just beaded up into big ole globs and ran down the sides. I'm still debating how best to proceed... but my big fear is the release agent is embedded in the paint.... in which case it's back to square one. Stay tuned...
Pete, I'm starting to think this tank is possessed. ;)
 
You may be able to salvage this out. Let it dry (set up) for a couple of days then use a vixen block or just drag a single edge razor blade with the direction of the run to remove it before you lightly block sand wet. If the clear hasn`t "pulled" the base color and if you don`t sand through you might luck out by recoating after you decontaminate the surface. I doubt if this product is still available but we sold a Fisheye eliminator. It was just silicone and you put a couple of drops in the paint cup before the application. It was like a vaccination for the paint. I would suggest a fast reducer and a very light first "tack coat". I would at least give it a try at fixing this first. You can always go back to square one.:thumbsup:
razor block 005.JPG
 
halfmile said:
You may be able to salvage this out. Let it dry (set up) for a couple of days then use a vixen block or just drag a single edge razor blade with the direction of the run to remove it before you lightly block sand wet. If the clear hasn`t "pulled" the base color and if you don`t sand through you might luck out by recoating after you decontaminate the surface. I doubt if this product is still available but we sold a Fisheye eliminator. It was just silicone and you put a couple of drops in the paint cup before the application. It was like a vaccination for the paint. I would suggest a fast reducer and a very light first "tack coat". I would at least give it a try at fixing this first. You can always go back to square one.:thumbsup:
View attachment 169418
Click to expand...
DuPont sold FEE... Fish Eye Eliminator. Yeah, we always added a few drops to everything we painted. It's not made anymore. I'm not gonna rush any decision. I'll prolly try the decon and razor route first. Thanks Phil.
Btw... I ain't seen a vixen block in ages. Anyone still make 'em?
 
No idea.:shrug: I`ve had that one since the 70`s. When clear coat came along there were many devices to remove runs and sags because everyone thought they were still painting Lacquer. Back in the old alcide enamel days if you could paint a VW without getting any runs (especially the hood) you were a Hell of a Good Painter.:thumbsup:
 

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