Discussion in 'The Garage' started by pamcopete, Dec 8, 2012.
Rev limiter ??????????
thats the version with electronic advance ...neat eh !
Mind you I should imagine you'd either have to be completely deaf or real insensitive to run your engine that high lol... but it could save your engine from destruction from a jammed throttle
XS650 newb here, wiring in a PAMCO+e-advance and a Hughes PMA into a stock unmolested 79' Special, does a wiring diagram for this exist?
also at this link the "Note: It is essential that you install the trigger rotor ..." part, what is that referring too? Does it just mean to install the actual Pamco unit on the other side first? http://www.yamahaxs650.com/Installtion of E-Advancer.htm Thanks!
The note says: Note: It is essential that you install the trigger rotor on the advance rod BEFORE inserting the advance rod into the cam cavity.
Meaning that you must install the rotor part with the four magnets on the end of the advance rod before inserting the rod into the hole in the cam shaft, so it would be convenient if the PAMCO plate were also installed at this point as well.
The reason for this note is to ensure that the rotor with the four magnets is properly seated on the end of the advance rod before you tighten the other end of the advance rod that has the cap on it.
Hi pete! When do we have news of the new e-advance for 277 system?
Probably by next riding season. I know, you are in Florida, but I mean riding season for everybody else LOL.
The design and program are very similar to the Honda CB350, 360 and 450 which are being worked on now. The CB450 has been released for sale, so if all goes well with the CB350 and CB360, the 277 is next.
This is great news! I was afraid it wasn't going to be offered.
I need instructions on the electronic advance install.
All the ones I search have different parts
I have the latest kit for my 80.
I put the supplied locating pin for the cam and it sits flush not sticking out at all..... there for not locating anytjing, is that right for my setup?
And I have a small grey disc with an arrow and locating notch... does that go on the right hand side shaft under the billet aluminum piece?
If the pin for the cam sits flush with the cam shaft it could be that both of the brass bushings are not in place. The inner bushing serves to keep the pin from falling into the hollow of the shaft.
The small grey disk with the arrow and locating notch is not used in this setup.
is there a wiring diagram for the electronic advance?
I have seen the instructions, I would like a diagram
This diagram should do the job for you.
Wouldnt that allow the PMA to hurt the pamco if that 20 amp blows?
The little diagram I posted is not specific to any type of charging system. I show the 20 amp fuse in the same location that Yamaha used for my 1978SE. My bike has the stock electro-magnet alternator, and I like the fuse where it is.
I've never used a PMA, but if you use a PMA, then its your choice to move the fuse location as you wish. Yes, you could move the fuse to adjacent to the ignition switch, which would then ensure the PMA regulator always has the battery as a load/filter.
What do you mean you must install the rotor first?
also Mikesxs sent me 3 pins, and the part that goes with the stock auto advance center piece?
Can someone verify something for me. In this thread it says to install the copper adaptor first then the pamco plate. On Pete's site it states that it is essential to install the trigger rotor which I assume is the pamco plate first. Which is correct? thanks
The instructions for the copper adapter is correct, for the copper adapter. The replacement aluminum adapter instructions say to install the PAMCO rotor first, which is also correct, for the aluminum adapter. Only the aluminum adapter is currently shipped.
Thanks pete. I followed the instructions from your site but was looking early today and saw the copper thing.
Can someone verify for me the timing proceedure for the Pamco when using the E-advance. At Idle I'm sitting at the 'T' and at 3200 RPM I'm between the 'F' lines.
Problem is though that my timing gun sensor has trouble picking up a signal...it has to be clamped just at the right spot and as the motor increases speed it the vibration moves that clamp (which is probably meant for cars). So basically I only get to see my tru RPM for a few seconds. How accurate does this need to be? Should I have this checked by a shop? IIRC exceeding full advance is BAD correct?
BTW when you don't have a tach checking your timing is a PITA on a bike. Especially when the bike is so light it likes to try and walk backwards on you.
Timing on the stock points , stock TCI and both the basic and e-advance are the same. At idle you want the timing mark on the rotor to line up between the F marks. This gives you proper idle timing. And yes, exceeding the max timing isn't good.
Try flipping the clamp on the plug wire over. Some only work well one way.
Doh...mixed up my marks and lines.
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