Pamco Pete doesn't lie!

[pregrid]

Ever since I've got the tracker runnin' it's started pretty good but not consistently. Sometimes it's taken more kicks than I thought it should. Sometimes it's taken too long to warm up. I've known since the beginning the mechanical advance weights haven't "snapped" back the way Pete preaches to us the way they should. Today I decided to rectify that situation. Originally I used wheel bearing grease to lube the shaft that goes thru the cam. Took the shaft out, wiped it down, and lubed it with engine oil. that helped. I also noticed when I took the weights off that there were two thin washers on the outside of the weights beneath the c-clips. when I put it back together this time I put one washer underneath the weight, one on top. I also replaced the MikesXS springs with NOS parts from 650 Central. Guess what? It now SNAPS like it's supposed to. Start-up is predictable and immediate. I now can also turn the chokes off immediately and it idles beautifully! So, boys and girls, pay attention to the experts, and take care of the basic shit before you go any further if you have a problem. Forgive me Pete for I have sinned..............................

 

[retiredgentleman]

Great job pregrid getting that ATU to work correctly! Yes, I tried Mikesxs advance springs once, and found they just did not work. I went back to the OEM springs and they work just dandy.

 

[5twins]

The factory shop manual recommends some sort of moly lube for the advance rod. I use VW CV joint grease because it has a very high moly content. I guess oil is better than nothing but I don't think it will last very long.

 

[Rogue21]

I've never been able to get mine to snap back, it always seemed like the grease on the rod was too thick and sluggish to let the mechanism snap.

 

[speez]

I've never been able to get mine to snap back, it always seemed like the grease on the rod was too thick and sluggish to let the mechanism snap.

same here,i did a complete rebuild on engine and when it was time to put rod in i tryed everthing exept butter! oil was the best but, i need to find a thinner grease or somthing as oil needs more maintince

 

[pregrid]

The factory shop manual recommends some sort of moly lube for the advance rod. I use VW CV joint grease because it has a very high moly content. I guess oil is better than nothing but I don't think it will last very long.

I agree. But now that I know how it's supposed to work I'll keep an eye on it and search for the correct lube.

 

[pregrid]

Great job pregrid getting that ATU to work correctly! Yes, I tried Mikesxs advance springs once, and found they just did not work. I went back to the OEM springs and they work just dandy.

What do you use as lube?

 

[cros36]

i used a red moly grease. the amount that you put on is key. i basically just tapped the tip of my finger on the grease and then rubbed it on the rod. doesnt take much at all. if you goober it up it with a finger full of grease will slow the snap back of the advance.

 

[5twins]

The outer bushings in the cam have grooves cut in the I.D. These are a reservoir for grease. Fill them and lightly smear the entire rod. Even though just the ends ride in the bushings, coating the entire rod protects it from rusting as it's just plain steel. Fill those grease grooves and you won't need to re-lube the rod for years.

 

[turn left]

How does everyone feel about the Camshaft internal cam needle Bearing that replaces Camshaft internal metal Labyrinth

 

[ProSimex]

I never replaced my springs, instead I put a torch to em till they were nearly white hot then squeezed em with some pliers. once they were cool they were nice and tight again and my weights snap back nicely.

 

[5twins]

I feel the needle bearings are overkill in this application. The rod isn't spinning round and round in there, just rotating back and forth maybe 1/4 turn.

 

[turn left]

I've got the MikesXS Auto Advance Spring & Clip Set that is awaiting install. Anyone using these with success at all?

 

[5twins]

They're not supposed to be that good, weak springs right out of the bag, but you can try them. Just don't toss your originals. You can cut one coil off one spring and make the set stiff enough again.

 

[Chi2]

Let me piggy back on Turn Left's comments. I bought the MikesXS Pamco for later model bikes and I'm guessing this kit includes the same springs as the stand alone auto advance they sell.

I'm about to do a ground up electrical redo on my 1981, and I'd rather not spend more hours tuning (than I need to) due to some weak springs.

Can anyone confirm if the springs are the same in the Pamco kit as the auto advance kit?

Thanks

I've got the MikesXS Auto Advance Spring & Clip Set that is awaiting install. Anyone using these with success at all?

 

[racerdave]

Heating a spring is not a good idea.

 

[TheBooger]

I've never used it in this application. but I really like a product called tenacious oil. it is sold by phil wood. its made for bicycles. I would describe it as a really light (viscosity wise) grease or a heavier, tackier oil. I use it in applications where I want the lubricant to last, but not cause a lot of additional friction

 

[retiredgentleman]

What do you use as lube?

I've been using a moly based grease, but its seems to be too heavy. Very little lubrication required, because the amount of rotation is very small. I'm planning on taking my ATU rod out today for cleaning, and I may try some engine oil as you are doing, just as a trial to see how it works.

 

[pregrid]

I've been using a moly based grease, but its seems to be too heavy. Very little lubrication required, because the amount of rotation is very small. I'm planning on taking my ATU rod out today for cleaning, and I may try some engine oil as you are doing, just as a trial to see how it works.

Unfortunately I changed the springs and the lube at the same time so I don't know if the moly lube I was using would have worked with the stock springs. One thing I do know. When you run kick only you can get a real good feel for how easily the engine turns over during startup. Before I made these changes the engine would try to kick back unless I was real careful. I wondered if this was because of the timing being too far advanced, even tho I was spot on with the timing light at idle. Before I replaced the springs the weights were not "seated" with the engine off. I now believe the timing was just a coupla degrees advanced from where it should have been during startup. not sure how critical this is. I DO know that after the mods the startup was a BUNCH better (read easier to kick). Just an observation. I'll know more after a coupla rides.

 

[Chi2]

These suggested mods sound good, but I'm concerned that motor oil will not adhere to the advanced rod and will dry-up over time. Is there some happy medium between (sticky) grease and (fluid) oil?

Thanks for the tips, btw, b/c I'm running a kick-only too, and I hate kick backs!!!