Ok, does anybody know a reg/rec that has a five wire setup, just 3x yellow, one +12v, and one ground, that will work with the perm mag. No splicing wires. Just 5 simple wires.
 
Hey bigjim, were you the one who blew one or two of the pamcos? You said you were going to take it to a buddy to look at the wiring. Did you ever get that figured out? I'm just wondering because on the xs-650 garage forum a couple of people were getting 35v out of there vf500rec/reg, vf500 stator combo. If that's what your running, I would really like to find out if you got it fixed. I can't afford to blow my boyer ign.
 
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I have not figured it out yet. I actually shot a message to Pete yesterday to see what fried my ignitions. I want to be certain. Right now I'm charging a battery to test the new ignition to make sure that it's not the coil. Then I'm going to get a voltmeter and test the output from the reg/rect to see what's coming out. If it's a problem I'm probably going to build a reg/rect from radioshack or I will just go to a simple 5 wire set up. I haven't taken it to the shop yet. On one hand I really want to figure it out myself, but invincibility is for the naive and now I'm a little fearful of frying another freaking pamco. Problem is man. I have had the bike running with a headlight before. Ran fine. Actually... Great. For some reason it was whenever I went to add in the brake light that I ran into problems... So I dunno. Whenever I would try to kick it over it sounded like it was trying to start up and then you could almost hear the ignition frying. After that it was just dead.
 
Atomic 22, No, The Chrysler reg is for a field excited alternator. The field excited alternators control the output by controlling rotor current, So when the electical saystem don't need juice tha reg shuts the alternator off.
The PM systems run at full output all the time. When the electrical system don't need juice the regulator shunts any excess output to ground. This makes the reg/rec very warm.
Big JIm, Even if you built the Radio shack rec, you would still need a reg, A big Zener diode at the right voltage would work.
I would try another PM type reg/rec. The five wire one, 3 hook to 3 from the stator, one hot, one ground.
If you keep blowing the Pamco's your voltage reg isn't doing its job. Any spikes over 16 volts can kill the Pamco.
I might try hooking in a small battery to run just the ignition. Leave the rest of your system hooked to the PM. Hook a volt meter up so you can carry it with you and ride the bike watching your volt meter. If it goes too high at speed then your reg is bad. It should stay at about 14.5 volts no matter how high you rev it. As far as hooking in the tail/ brake light it shouldn't effect the ignition. Just check to be sure its not shorting to ground and it's not on the same circuit as the ignition.
Thats about all I can think of, Pamcopete may have some other ideas on why the Pamco is having trouble.
 
has anyone tried to build their own rotor on a lathe the drill it for some magnets?? then re-use the xs stator? just a thought...
 
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Yes, A guy at an Austrailian site. He took a small car alternator, took the stator out, turned the 650 stator housing to fit around the car stator. He turned an alloy rotor installed a big set of magnets in the rotor. The last I checked he was still working on it.
www.xs650.org.au Under Kev's turbo.
 
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Thats the guy I was thinking of. I found it and edited my last post.
This Kev has done a great many thing with just a bit if knowledge and a few tools.
His whole thread is an amazing read.
The whole site is a very good read.
 
I noticed most everybody here is using the banshee flywheel, but a different stator assembly. Why is that? Does the MrRiggs adaptor plate accept the banshee stator? I didn't see it in the list, but thought I would ask anways. Thanks, Mark
 
I noticed most everybody here is using the banshee flywheel, but a different stator assembly. Why is that? Does the MrRiggs adaptor plate accept the banshee stator? I didn't see it in the list, but thought I would ask anways. Thanks, Mark

His plate will accept a banshee stator, but the banshee stator is only a single Phase stator.

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Thanks BigJimmy,

And you need a three phase stator correct? In laymans terms whats the difference between a single phase and three phase...as in advantages for this application. Take care, Mark
 

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Sorry man I didn't see your reply till wally replied. I don't really know the exact advantage/disadvantage of the 3 phase, but I can tell you their alternator curves are completely different. the 3 phase alternates 3 times as much as the 1 phase. I "think" and I mean I am kind of grasping for straws here it is advantageous due to it creating an almost constant peak of alternation.
 
If you know what a sine wave looks like, It goes up and down in a series of loops. This is how AC electricity flows. The electricity flows up to a positve peak then flows down to a negative peak.
A single phase alternator all the little coils on the staror are linked to follow a single sine wave. so you get a sinle AC output.
The three phase stator has the coils wired in three sections. Each section is a single phase AC. AS the rotor spins it excites the coils in sequence so each single phase output is 120 degrees from the one before it.
This gives you three sines waves of AC at the output. 120 degrees apart.
The output is in three smaller pulses, instead of one larger one. This makes the output smoother.
If I could draw better pics I could show it better. If you put three phase alternator in your search engine It may come up with a better explaination.
 
Thanks for the in-depth responses guys. I have to replace my crankshaft oil seal, so i'm highly debating doing this mod while I already have everything apart.
 
You can do this without really getting invasive. Fix the crankshaft seal. Get things running right and then attempt the PMA conversion.

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