Permanent Magnet Alternator

Hi Guys
I have fitted the RZ stator small battery & capacitor but it wont run the H4 Halogen lamp I have in the head light
Bike runs a little rough on idle & low beam but when you turn to high beam at idle bike dies. Is this lamp to big for this system???
 
Wally, you only use the RZ Flywheel out of the RZ system. The RZ stator is single phase I think. You need a 3 phase stator and a 3 phase regulator/rectifier assembly to get the full advantage of this swap. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Edit*** Nevermind, I'm wrong. Just saw a pic of an RZ stator. IT's got 15 poles so it has to be 3 phase.
 
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It's more the way the poles are wired together than the number that makes it a single or three phase stator.
If there are just two wires coming from the stator it is a single phase. To be a three phase it needs three wires.
 
For those running batteryless w/ a capacitor: Where have you mounted it? Just in an electronics box or what?
 
I recently spotted a post about a guy who was selling Permanent Magnet Alternator kits
But can't find it now anyone got a link to it???

Thanks
 
there's the sparxs kits on 650central... they look nice but about twice the price of what it would cost to find the other parts i think.

is that what you were talking about?
 
So this is how i dont know for what reason but the only way I can kick start & ride with headlight on, using Permanent Mag Alternater

Active from Reg/Rec goes to capacitor
Active from capacitor to small battery
Active fron capacitor to fuse & switch

In this way i seem to get heaps of spark bike runs great & can run as long as i like with H4 headlight.
 

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Had several people email me asking about wiring one of these things up, so I made a simple little drawing. 3 Yellow wires go the 3 Yellow wires on the Regulator (I have a great source for these, $42.50 NEW if you need one) in any order, they don't matter where they go. Then a hot and a ground and you are done. The rest of the bike's wiring is up to you. This is for the Charging System ONLY

PMADiagram.jpg
 
Its not really "Hot" unless it is spinning, and since it is contact free, there is no worry about anything grounding out. I do run a switch like everyone else does to power on the bike, but with all the bikes I've setup using this system, none have needed a fuse or switch. AND, if you do have a bad connection, leave the bike on, etc... you can drain the battery completely and still be able to kick start the bike in about 2 kicks...
 
regarding the PMA conversion, all the references for rotors seem to refer to the banshee only. I have seen some mention of an RD350 rotor, but does anyone know of any other rotors that will fit? We don't get many banshees here in UK and it seems a bit excessive (!) to ship from US if there is something else more local that will do the job.
Thanks for all the great info :0)
 

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