There was a request for some pics in another thread, but I think a new post is more appropriate. I got these carbs from Mikuni-Topham in Germany. The spigots are 40 mm OD, so I used "PM-05" rubbers from Allens Performance in the UK. These also fit VM34 carbs, and are straight, so the back end of the carbs end up around 10 mm higher than stock. The carb/ manifold combo is also significantly shorter than the stock setup. Both these issues make fitting the stock side covers impossible, as you can see from the pics. Currently, I am using K&N RU-2980 filters.
I bought some beat up, rusty side covers to modify, for now I cut out a rectangular section from the LH side cover, as shown in the pics. I cut out 10 mm higher on the top, and the plan is to do the same on the other used cover. Then weld in the cut out pieces on the opposite side, effectively moving the "neck" in the cover 10 mm up. And use a different filter setup, with some alloy velocity stacks between carbs and filters, most likely UNI pods with 2 1/2 or 2 3/4" ID, to allow for a nicely rounded air horn at the end of the stacks.Surely that won't hurt performance. I actually plan to make 2- piece stacks, a straight alloy tube, with a machined POM air horn/filter adapter. That makes it easy to change stack lengths if I decide to. All this also requires a smaller battery and battery box, and relocating the starter relay, voltage regulator, etc, or fitting a PMA. With all this done, there is at least 200 mm/8" clearance between rear fender and carbs, allowing a pretty long stack/filter combination.
There is also some clearance problems with petcocks, especially on the LH side. That petcock requires some grinding of the throttle cable bracket. I also added some plate rubber and an alloy bushing to raise the rear of the tank around 5 mm. And they come with push/pull cables and a new throttle grip, so the stock RH switch throttle/switch housing needs to be kept, either as is, or modified. Or just replaced with a more compact switch housing, depending on the handlebar used.
So these carbs are not purely bolt-on, but I am still very happy with them.
I bought some beat up, rusty side covers to modify, for now I cut out a rectangular section from the LH side cover, as shown in the pics. I cut out 10 mm higher on the top, and the plan is to do the same on the other used cover. Then weld in the cut out pieces on the opposite side, effectively moving the "neck" in the cover 10 mm up. And use a different filter setup, with some alloy velocity stacks between carbs and filters, most likely UNI pods with 2 1/2 or 2 3/4" ID, to allow for a nicely rounded air horn at the end of the stacks.Surely that won't hurt performance. I actually plan to make 2- piece stacks, a straight alloy tube, with a machined POM air horn/filter adapter. That makes it easy to change stack lengths if I decide to. All this also requires a smaller battery and battery box, and relocating the starter relay, voltage regulator, etc, or fitting a PMA. With all this done, there is at least 200 mm/8" clearance between rear fender and carbs, allowing a pretty long stack/filter combination.
There is also some clearance problems with petcocks, especially on the LH side. That petcock requires some grinding of the throttle cable bracket. I also added some plate rubber and an alloy bushing to raise the rear of the tank around 5 mm. And they come with push/pull cables and a new throttle grip, so the stock RH switch throttle/switch housing needs to be kept, either as is, or modified. Or just replaced with a more compact switch housing, depending on the handlebar used.
So these carbs are not purely bolt-on, but I am still very happy with them.
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