Pneumatic Spark Plug Cleaner

I can't see any use for such a device.

If your bike's plugs are carboned up, you should repair your engine, tune your carbs or replace a defective ignition. Plugs are so cheap.............who cleans plugs?

My car has iridium long like plugs that are good for 12 years or 192,000 kms...............no need to clean plugs there.
 
whoa there moneybags! You can clean your plugs while you are tuning your engine.
 
I fear such a device will leave a bit of grit lodged in the plug to be dropped in the cylinder so I wouldn't use one. There is then a possibility of a distinct vertical scratch in the cylinder wall and a small lost of compression. No use wearing out the engine early.

When I used the SP cleaner in the 60's as a dumb kid, they were full of sand. I think a softer blasting media, like walnut shell, would be much safer.

Tom
 
I bought one back in 1999 when we were running a few 2stroke 4wheelers and fouling plugs. I think I paid like $5 for it then. After you use it, make sure to inspect the plug as the aggregate used does get lodged between the insulator and the plug base. After seeing this and couldn't remove it with air or a very small pic I stopped using it. Alternate media like the walnut shells should burn off if left in there.
 
I use a propane torch and wire brush, seems good enough. We don't have lead deposits anymore which I think was the main reason for needing a blaster. Some of the airplane guys still use em.
 
I have a Mac tools one and I love it. I use it all the time for all my stuff mowers, weedwhackers, motorcycles. Really nice for two stroke stuff especially. When I replace plugs for service on bikes I clean the old ones and keep them on the bike for spares. Saved me various times more than once.
 
Thread refresh.

We have members on here trying to solve fuel/carb issues, and post up pics of severely fouled plugs. Once the plug is fouled, it needs to be cleaned if follow-up testing is done. Otherwise, it'll misfire, or not fire at all, confusing the diagnostics and frustrating the owner.

An ideal before & after pic of a cleaned plug:
SparkPlugCleaning01.jpg
Note that the porcelain electrode is cleaned down to its "white" color.

Budget ($10-$25) pneumatic plug cleaners of today look like this:
SparkPlugCleaning02.jpg

Expensive ($100+) shop grade cleaners look like this:
spark-plug-cleaner-and-tester-1340124.jpg

Long ago, you could get these inexpensive 12 volt cleaners:
SparkPlugCleaning03.jpg

I still have one of those 12v cleaners. Web searches report that these are no longer available.

For our members who don't have air compressors, or a lotta $$$ to spend on a box of difficult-to-find plugs, can anyone suggest *good* plug cleaning tips/tricks/tools?
 
Torch em good with a Bernzomatic, scrub deposits off with fine SS wire brush and back into the fray.
Wear gloves, use pliers, work fast, spritz a bit of gas, carb cleaner or ether in the hole, get em back in while they are hot. If it has any hope of running, that will fire it. I tend to kick or spin it through a bit with the plugs out to blow out any excess liquids in the cylinder.
Um use some caution here....

M66JPsL.gif


IMHO No sand blasted parts go in my engines, even when I had a sand blast cabinet in my shop I stuck to that.

Handy hint for the coming season here in the great white north. Got an engine that won't start cause it's damned cold out there? Probably got gas fouled plugs now? Use a hair dryer on the carb for a while, warm it up, point dryer at the inlet. 90% of the time that'll light it off.
Hint; when you have 3 feet of flame shooting out of the carb; scream at your assistant to KEEP CRANKING damn it! It'll suck the flame in. Bonus; the motor will start!
 
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