points wiring

[jolo9534]

hi guys, so im rewiring my bike and im at the coils, i know that this probably has been covered like 100 times but i cant seem to find the right diagram. i bought a harness from mikes xs. im pretty sure that its the correct one. so can someone point me in the right direction, i would like to know where each wire is connected, i have the condenser with two wires coming out of it, two coils each with two wires. brown and orange. then two wires from the points. looks like grey and orange. i have two sets of red/white wires coming out of the harness. one with a grey wire and the other with an orange wire. i would like to run it without a battery, also i would like to add an after market momentary push switch, to kill the engine. any help would be appreciated.

 

[littlebill31]

Do you have a PMA charging system to run it without a battery?
What year bike and what year harness did you buy from Mikes?

 

[5twins]

To avoid confusion in the future when looking at a stock wiring diagram, I would suggest following the same color coding the factory used at the points and coils. Starting at the points, that would mean the orange wire connecting to the lower left cylinder set of points and the gray wire running to the upper right cylinder set of points .....

Up at the harness where the two R/W's, gray, and orange come out, the R/W's are power for each coil. Connect them to the coil brown wires. Connect the orange wire to the orange wire on the left coil. Connect the gray wire to the orange wire on the right coil. Near where those four wires come out of the harness, you should find another orange and gray coming out. They should have double female bullet connectors on them. They are the other ends of the orange and gray wires that exit with the R/W power wires. Connect the gray points wire to one of the spots in the gray wire's double bullet, do the same with the orange points wire to the orange wire's double bullet. The open spots on each double bullet will each get one of the black condenser wires .....

The condenser is actually a condenser "pack", two separate condensers mounted end to end on the same bracket. Each black wire comes from one of the individual condensers .....

 

[jolo9534]

thanks alot fellas, this really saved me alot of time.

 

[jolo9534]

Do you have a PMA charging system to run it without a battery?
What year bike and what year harness did you buy from Mikes?

its a 79, the one i bought from mikes sounds like the right one now, according to 5twins. i spent alot of time researching which harness to get.

 

[XSLeo]

Using the stock wiring and charging system, you can not run without a battery. This is a field excited alternator. This means it takes power from a battery to charge the field coil excite the stator to get alternator output. The field coil is an electro magnet.
If you convert the stock charging system to a PMA you can run without a battery. A PMA is a Permanent Magnet Alternator. It uses a rotor with Permanent magnet to excite the stator to get output.
Leo

 

[jolo9534]

Using the stock wiring and charging system, you can not run without a battery. This is a field excited alternator. This means it takes power from a battery to charge the field coil excite the stator to get alternator output. The field coil is an electro magnet.
If you convert the stock charging system to a PMA you can run without a battery. A PMA is a Permanent Magnet Alternator. It uses a rotor with Permanent magnet to excite the stator to get output.
Leo

i got the pma from tc bros. hoping to have the wiring done tuesday, and try to fire it up on thursday. with that pma do you think i can run two sets of headlights, one would be led so the power draw is like 11watts and the other is like 34 watts?

 

[retiredgentleman]

A total of 45 watts for headlights.........................yes no problem running that. Actually I would recommend you try to increase the headlight wattage to a total of 55 or 60 watts. If your bike's total wattage consumption is under 100 watts, you may soon have failures with the poor quality TC bros chinese pma and rec/reg. Those chinese PMAs produce 200 watts when driving down the road at 4000 rpm. The smaller amount of wattage that your bike consumes, the more the PMA/rec/reg has to try to dissipate or else it will burn up.
Systems like that are unbalanced. If your PMA is the 200 watt type, then you should try to have your bikes wattage consumption in the 130 to 140 watt range.

Stock alternators don't have this problem. As an example, if your bike only consumed lets say 80 watts, then the stock alternator would only produce 80 watts. The system is balanced.

 

[jolo9534]

thanks ill up the watts on the bulb thanks for the info

 

[mattgiblin]

This sounds a lot like my setup on my bobbed '74 XS650. I have the TC bros PMA kit and wiring harness, original points and coils/condensors. I am going to replace the battery with a capacitor. Are there any wiring diagrams/descriptions/videos for this setup anywhere?

 

[littlebill31]

Look in the "Tech" section under electrical.

 

[mattgiblin]

Thanks little bill, I found this one from inxs. Everything is the same except for the battery, but I think I can just put the capacitor in place of the battery and all else is the same.